Dually axle info needed

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wayno
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Fri Aug 30, 2013 11:20 pm

I finished this up yesterday, had to make my own inspection plate gasket, as baxters did not have one anywhere(stores or warehouse), now all I need to do is take the rearend out that is under the work truck, and install this one, if everything works out, then I will do the same thing to that rearend, as it is doing the same thing, clanging when I start out after stopping, it's just not as loud yet.
Since this rearend has no brass in it, any 90 weight gear lube will work in it, or am I wrong?
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Laecaon
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby Laecaon » Fri Aug 30, 2013 11:49 pm

No brass, GL5 should be safe.

I know the stock 510 sedan diffs are rated for GL5, but the goon is GL4 because of brass.
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wayno
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Sat Nov 02, 2013 3:46 pm

The rebuilt dually axle has been under the truck for a while now, it works great, so I now have a parts source to repair these axles.
Now to the hilarious part, after I put my rebuilt axle under the work truck and started driving it, it still clangs, I know it's not the axle making the noise, so it must be a U-joint, so I changed the axle out for no reason other than finding out if what I did would fix it. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I removed the rear inspection plate off the axle that was under the truck, it is just fine, no issues like the other one had, and since I am able to remove the axle without messing with the driveline for the most part, I did not check it. :lol:
Maybe tomorrow I will remove the drive line and check the U-joints, I just don't feel like doing it at the moment. :|
Here are some photos of the inside of the case.
This is of the cross pin, it is unbroken, the other bad axle pin was broken.
Image
Here is the offending cross pin hole, this one is just fine.
Image
But the other axle pin hole looked like this.
Image

Image
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wayno
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Sat Nov 02, 2013 5:29 pm

OK, I know I said I wasn't going to check the driveline today, but I did check it anyway, all the U-joints are good, so I looked around under there and all I can see that could hit the driveline is the e-brake cables, but I just don't see how that could happen, I have two extra leafs in that 521 leaf pack, I just cannot see how I could have any axle wrap/twisting to get that driveline any closer to them cables, and I also cannot figure out how the cables could get whipped up towards the driveline to smack it when they are loose, sure I can hear the cables slap the driveline when I pull the e-brake on when I park it, but when the cables are loose, they are a few inches below the driveline.
The thing is that the clang happens after I have started forward, not when I start forward, sometimes I can move 10 feet forward before I hear the clang, which is why I thought it was the readend, as that was how the bad one actually acted.
If I had a small camera I would mount it under the bed and drive around till it clanged a couple times then watch it to see what was going on.
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby izzo » Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:13 pm

maybe axle wrap is part of it.

but also think about it. yeah the cables are loose, but i bet it doesn't take much to make them move or flop around... a slight motion or tiny bump could probably make them move.
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wayno
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Sun Nov 03, 2013 1:25 pm

Look at this leaf pack, I just don't see axle wrap as an issue.
Image
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Charlie69
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby Charlie69 » Thu Jan 02, 2014 1:26 am

Wayno, does the axles bolt into the hubs with studs and nuts like on domestic 1 ton dually's?
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:05 pm

Charlie69 wrote:Wayno, does the axles bolt into the hubs with studs and nuts like on domestic 1 ton dually's?



See the 6 bolt heads inside the 6 lugnuts, that is how the axle is held in, if I take them bolts out, the axle slides right out.
Image
I guess I have never took a photo of it with the axle removed, but when it is removed, there is a notched plate with 2 screws in it, take the screws out and remove the plate, then I can turn the nut out that holds the drum on, that nut has 2 threaded holes in it, and the notched plate has several holes in it at different locations to hold the nut in position using the 2 screws.
This is what the axle looks like with the drum removed.
Image
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby Charlie69 » Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:57 pm

Wayno, have you checked to see if one axle is longer than the other? In this picture it appears that the axle on the right is too long. If you switch the axles is there more clearance on the right?

Image
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wayno
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Re: Dually axle info needed

Postby wayno » Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:07 pm

Charlie69 wrote:Wayno, have you checked to see if one axle is longer than the other? In this picture it appears that the axle on the right is too long. If you switch the axles is there more clearance on the right?

Image



These axles don't touch the pin in the center, fact is they are offset, they are offset a lot on the 4X4 720 in 85/86, I cut/ground off the part that sticks out in the photo below and put the block in. in hopes that what happened before doesn't happen again.
Image
The broken pin was likely the issue when my cross pin holes ovaled themselves, so if the center of the pin has the block, then maybe it cannot flex enough to break the pin shaft next to the carrier housing, at least that is what I am hoping.
The C200 dually rearends did not have the block in the middle, while the C200 4X4 rearends did, but they share the same carrier.
I put this in my dually work truck a while back, so far it's working just fine, only time will tell though.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

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