How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

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BLUE
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How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby BLUE » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:15 pm

This is a how-to on taking off a 240-280zx L-series/KA24E or DE/CA/SR etc front TRANSMISSION case (or bell-housing as some call it).

This as well as ( I suspect ) many of my other photos will take a bit of time as I'm making the switch from photobucket to flickr.

Step 1: --- obtain the transmission to be worked on. In this case we'll be using a 1973 Datsun 240z 4spd "B" series LONG-TAIL trans.
NOTE: If you wish to wash off your transmission before hand ... it's not a bad idea as of right now if it will dry off quickly for you before the sun goes down.
This particular transmission had a knarly piece of bearing retainer on the drain-plug , so it will require repair.
Image
1371319658_zps30eb346b by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 2: --- Pull off the Clutch collar , Clutch throw-out bearing , and clutch fork.
NOTE: The clutch fork is simply "snapped-in" on a pivot bolt located on the front case. You literally just pull it off (in the direction towards the FRONT of the car) to release it ... then seperate the clutch collar with the bearing intact from the fork and set aside all pieces in a clean area.
Image
1371319694_zps9b5fa3ee by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 3: --- This is what it should look like if you were successfull in Step 2.
Image
1371319752_zpsebba52ef by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 4: --- Grab a 12mm wrench , 1/4" to 3/8" drive with a 12mm socket , and even a 12mm ratcheting wrench.
Look at the mid-section of the outside of the transmission case.
We will be taking off (8) 12mm head bolts total on the outside of tail-shaft housing ... which the bolts go through the mid-section plate ... into the front case (bell-housing).
Keep rotating the transmission until you are able to reach and take out all (8) bolts.
NOTE: I recommend wearing mechanic's gloves ... breaking loose with a wrench and then switching to a ratchet with a 12mm socket + extension.
Image
1371319723_zps58878bcc by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 5: --- Once you are done with Step 4 ... there should be (8) 12mm head bolts ... all of which are the SAME length , and bolt ( don't sweat it ).
NOTE: I would advise bagging groups of bolts for later identification IF trans is to be apart for more than a 1-week duration. Sticking them in a sand-wich bag then wrapping with sarin-wrap also helps to keep things from migrating where you don't want them to.
Image
1371320960_zpsc0e579b6 by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 6: --- Come back to the front of the transmission inside the bell-housing area. We're taking off the front throw-out bearing cover retainer off next. This earlier L-series one is made of STEEL , but later (newer) transmissions such as the KA/SR are made of ALUMINUM (be gentle).
Grab your 12mm socket (deep or shallow) on a ratchet with an extension (medium or long works well) and take off the (5) total 12mm bolts that surround the perimeter in the photo below. Loosen all of them carefully in a criss-cross pattern 1/4 turns until all are loose.
Image
1371319777_zps7d75b076 by 71240z, on Flickr
---------------------------
Image
1371320352_zps9192b5ad by 71240z, on Flickr
Make sure to collect all (5) 12mm bolts , and bag + tag them if stored for a long duration. You can clearly see there are (2) different lengths with 1 bolt being slightly longer than the other 4. You'll be able to tell by the casting surface which goes where.
Image
1371319836_zpsed6347cf by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 7: --- We will be popping the front bearing cover loose next. You can either use a pry-bar with a soft dead-blow hammer through the clutch fork to slave cylinder access hole in the casting , a block of wood and a dead-blow/hammer from the front (carefully) , or a piece of bolt that threads into the clutch fork pivot point (threads in and pushes/pops the cover off as you TIGHTEN it).
I deligated to use a dead-blow hammer and a Craftsman pry-bar with GENTLE ... controlled blows throw the clutch fork boot area.
Point the pry bar towards the FRONT of the car ... just underneath the lip of the pivot ball-joint (won't hurt anything , but always a good idea to have something soft on edge). A few good gentle blows is all it takes to pop it loose.
Image
1371319878_zpsc51680dc by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 8: --- Once it's popped loose (from Step 7) ... go ahead and pull it off , and make sure to be mindful of the front counter-shaft bearing shim/thrust washer(don't lose it).
Image
1371319900_zpsb2e98041 by 71240z, on Flickr
(Green arrow shows the counter-shaft shim/thrust washer dropped down when I pulled the cover off.. just a reminder not to work in a spot where this couldn't be recovered if dropped)
Image
1371319922_zps03425932 by 71240z, on Flickr
Last edited by BLUE on Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case (NOT DO

Postby BLUE » Sat Jul 06, 2013 10:48 pm

Continue from last pages directions , and remove the front throw-out bearing/retainer housing from the front case.
Image
1371319961_zps5799d7ed by 71240z, on Flickr
This is what you'll end up with after the cover is removed.
NOTE: I would highly emphasize you do your best to keep debris out of the bearings/internal pieces :)
*Input shaft bearing is at the top and largest.
*Front counter-shaft bearing is directly below it and the smaller of the 2 in the front of the case.
**** At the very bottom inside the bell-housing ... is again the front countershaft shim/thrust washer. ****
*The three smaller holes/rods ... are the 1-2 , 3-4 , R shift-rods (shift rod relief holes in the casing.)
Image
1371319985_zps0c3d8fe8 by 71240z, on Flickr
Closer look at the counter-shaft bearing and it's shim !
Image
1371320009_zps28d5ab33 by 71240z, on Flickr
Front throw-out bearing cover with the countershaft bearing shim sitting in it.
Image
1371320118_zps1d25fcb5 by 71240z, on Flickr
Input shaft bearing pocket area (off the cover) and seal (should replace while it's off .. at least I do.)
Image
1371320140_zpsbbbfc734 by 71240z, on Flickr
Front throw-out bearing cover (inside area).
Image
1371320196_zpsfc2b8322 by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 9: --- Bag and Tag then put away in a safe place the front throwout bearing cover(1) + front case bolts (8) + front throwout bearing bolts (5) and the input-shaft bearing circlip once taken off (soon to be).
Image
1371320222_zpsfd45018d by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 10: --- Next we will be taking off the input-shaft main bearing circlip (or snap-ring).
Image
1371320034_zps991d431f by 71240z, on Flickr
You'll need a pair of GOOD snap-ring pliers. Cheap snap-ring pliers are sometimes the most annoying thing in the world , but get what you can afford and go from there.
Looking from the inside of the bell-housing... You'll want to look for this groove "notch" so to speak.
Image
1371320053_zps3d696e10 by 71240z, on Flickr
Grab a pair of snap-ring pliers and carefully expand the circlip (it's not underneath "that" much tension , but enough to fly across into the neighbor's lawn on a dark night under the right circumstances.)
Expand carefully... with snap-ring pliers then recover the ring as soon as possible (circlip or internal pliers should be used.)
Image
1371320246_zpse8455de0 by 71240z, on Flickr

Image
1371320313_zps394ea328 by 71240z, on Flickr

Retrieving the input shaft main bearing retaining ring. As soon as you do... go put it in a safe place !!!
Image
1371320432_zps7a540b1f by 71240z, on Flickr

(Still posting/Finishing this :lol: )
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case (NOT DO

Postby BLUE » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:08 pm

Step 11:--- We'll be starting to seperate the front case from the rear shortly since everything retaining is off at this point (double check your work I do mine at least..)
Next Grab a piece of wood or block of wood heavy enough to support the trans weight on and take a bit of blunting. Grab a preferably soft hammer such as a mallet or dead-blow (we'll be using). If not then a regular hammer and another block of wood shall do (don't want to be striking aluminum with a steel hammer like that if it can be helped :) ).
Image
1371320522_zpscf82a66f by 71240z, on Flickr
Step 12: ---There are many ways to do this , but since the input shaft protudes from the front case face some we can slightly cheat (carefully).
I'd suggest a 2nd helper hand isn't to bad at this point ( I did this routine myself though ).
NOTE: Keep your dead-blow , hammer + wood ... close by ...
Stand the trans up on the block of wood ... input shaft DIRECTLY into the wood (facing in the ground) ... and bell-housing area will be hovering above it a little bit (not a whole lot).
Image
1371320546_zpsa9718b15 by 71240z, on Flickr

Carefully tap evening around the strong points of the casting in the front casing DOWNWARDS with your dead-blow hammer , mallet , or hammer.
Image
1371320582_zps2cdae893 by 71240z, on Flickr
......Soft consistent blows ........
Image
1371320615_zps28dfdda5 by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 12: ---- You'll start to see the case seperate ... little ... by ... little at the mid-section of the entire unit. Keep going as long as you're comfortable. When you approach closer to the 1/2" mark of seperation ease out of the swinging (as the thickness of the case material isn't much more than 1/2" realistically ... in the KA/SR version's ... the L-series is slightly thicker , but not by much !).
You'll want to watch the trans center of gravity and your own ! It'll all shit a little bit the closer you get to it popping off. Be informed 8-)
Image
1371320667_zpsb4233f9f by 71240z, on Flickr

Step 13: ---- once the front case "gap" is far enough along ... you can delegate to lay the trans horizontally , so an accident doesn't occur with the juggling act I just recommended.
I laid the trans straight back down on the soft 4x4 wood.
Image
1371320718_zpsa95758f9 by 71240z, on Flickr
.....
Image
1371320752_zpsc1eb7534 by 71240z, on Flickr
You can see the front input main shaft bearing and front countershaft bearing recessing farther and farther "in" (away) from the case.
Image
1371320852_zps6c58a9bb by 71240z, on Flickr
Tapping every so slightly a little farther ... the case is free ... and the front shaft needs a little support to fish the case out at this point (if you chose to do so right now).
Image
1371320803_zpsc9ee2c9d by 71240z, on Flickr
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case (NOT DO

Postby BLUE » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:17 pm

Step 14: ---- Go ahead and slide off the front case (since it's free) and carefully store/keep the rest of the transmission stable (if need be).
Image
1371321091_zpsecd86dc4 by 71240z, on Flickr

Image
1371321267_zps9d916d29 by 71240z, on Flickr

Re-assembly is reversal of dis-assembly :).

Gears in this particular trans look excellents as do the bearings (but one can never tell until it's driven first then taken apart + inspected ;) )
Image
1371321115_zpsf1cccea8 by 71240z, on Flickr
Old school steel shift forks and front cover on this model.
Image
1371321146_zps60bcc551 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321170_zps4605e123 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321190_zpscd2e0480 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321213_zpsd97287eb by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321295_zps322cd357 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321322_zps36ba1d6d by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321348_zpsa45869e9 by 71240z, on Flickr

(Still not done :lol: )
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case (NOT DO

Postby BLUE » Sat Jul 06, 2013 11:32 pm

When you go to re-assemble I'd personally recommend that you remember to use this gasket and not RTV or Anerobic sealer... (which I like the second one).
Image
1371321371_zps8d612a84 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371321775_zps946c9c5b by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Trans in previous pics on the bench for now.
Image
1371321578_zps9b12fad3 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
From the rear looking towards the front of the car.
Image
1371576919_zps0dc81ef7 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Time to clean the case.
Image
1371700808_zps47de5345 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
rear portion didn't have much sludge to begin with... I wiped/washed with gas prior to the photo.
Image
1371700848_zps51c428af by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Washing , scrubbing quickly , and rinsing with Gas.
Image
1371701867_zps084059a6 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371701734_zps803cdc4d by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371701820_zps39ad3d50 by 71240z, on Flickr
...
Image
1371700922_zps53f0698b by 71240z, on Flickr

Cold Pressure washed casing thereafter for final cleaning , and cleaned front gasket area.

Image
1371701669_zps1ddf1354 by 71240z, on Flickr

FINALLY clean :)
Image
Zcarprogress62013077_zpse3d42358 by 71240z, on Flickr


How-to done :thumbs:

Thanks for reading

Blue
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby 510freak » Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:24 am

Awesome stuff Blue,Great detailed pics in this how to :thumbs:
Taterhead » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:35 am wrote:[quote="Taterhead » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:41 pm


Sorry, I was channeling my inner flatcat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby Laecaon » Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:47 am

Indeed awesome. I will be swapping out my tranny by the end of summer, but I need to swap front cases to do so (one is Lseries and one is Zseries). This will definitely help with my confidence in doing so.

PS, you should use the macro setting on your camera, the setting looks like a flower. It will allow for much better detail up close.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby datsunmike » Sun Jul 07, 2013 12:18 pm

Did not know the early Z car had the steel cover plate. I've only seen the 720 diesel and an S12 CA18ET with this. All others were aluminum.

Later '85 and up 71Bs used a larger 62mm counter bearing so Jacob, if swapping an earlier L case onto it for use on an L series motor it's very easy to pull this and put a smaller new 56mm one on. (you will need the smaller 56mm cover plate to match) I highly recommend a new counter bearing here as this is a weak point on the higher hp use 71Bs.

Excellent how to.
My Datsuns, like good friends, have never let me down. At least in any way that was not understandable and thus fixable.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby Laecaon » Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:13 pm

Both are doglegs.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby BLUE » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:16 pm

510freak wrote:Awesome stuff Blue,Great detailed pics in this how to :thumbs:


Thanks 510freak. Glad you like the detail , pics , and the lay-out :thumbs:

Laecaon wrote:Indeed awesome. I will be swapping out my tranny by the end of summer, but I need to swap front cases to do so (one is Lseries and one is Zseries). This will definitely help with my confidence in doing so.

PS, you should use the macro setting on your camera, the setting looks like a flower. It will allow for much better detail up close.


Thanks Laecaon. Good to hear this will help.
Takes me about 15-20 minutes to pop off one front trans case with no air-tools (I'm slow).

Appreciate the tip ! I've been using my Iphone for a camera :lol: .
I'm looking at getting a different camera here off Amazon soon.
Will remember to look for the flower setting !

datsunmike wrote:Did not know the early Z car had the steel cover plate. I've only seen the 720 diesel and an S12 CA18ET with this. All others were aluminum.

Later '85 and up 71Bs used a larger 62mm counter bearing so Jacob, if swapping an earlier L case onto it for use on an L series motor it's very easy to pull this and put a smaller new 56mm one on. (you will need the smaller 56mm cover plate to match) I highly recommend a new counter bearing here as this is a weak point on the higher hp use 71Bs.

Excellent how to.


On the other end of the spectrum..I didn't realize the CA18ET had a steel cover plate either !
Oh yeah ! the 240z steel one is quite "hefty" feeling when one picks it up to move it around.
I quite like the steel cover plate over the aluminum even though the smaller 56mm front counter-shaft bearing is what it's limited to. (doh)

Right on spot with the new-counter bearing advice when doing the swap !...
I purchased a new Timken Front 56mm counter-shaft bearing for my other swap as well. (made in Korea) Doh ! oh well... that one is on me for not buying Japanese.

Thankyou for that datsunmike ! :thumbs:

Laecaon wrote:Both are doglegs.


Should be a-ok ! :)
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
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2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby Laecaon » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:04 pm

How about; How to - Put front case back on ? lolz.

I only really ask, because Im not sure if a sealant should be used or not between the front and rear cases, and behind the cover plate.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby wayno » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:21 pm

Laecaon wrote:How about; How to - Put front case back on ? lolz.

I only really ask, because Im not sure if a sealant should be used or not between the front and rear cases, and behind the cover plate.




I have never used sealant yet, but I make sure the the surfaces are clean before I put them back together.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby BLUE » Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:20 pm

Laecaon wrote:How about; How to - Put front case back on ? lolz.

I only really ask, because Im not sure if a sealant should be used or not between the front and rear cases, and behind the cover plate.


Ha ! maybe...

You can do as Wayno suggests. Also you can obtain really clean surface than apply either RTV or Anerobic sealer (correct kind which there are different kinds as you know). People all have their own opinions when it comes to sealer , types , leaks , application as you know. FWIW I've never seen RTV peel off inside transmission front or rear cases like I have some engines.. All in moderation right ;) ( little goes a long ways .. literally the case ).

The "Front cover plate" needs a gasket (should require one) , and I would strongly encourage one instead of any form-a-gasket or no-gasket... just to the fact of the counter-shaft front pre-loading shim (this is pure speculation in my thinking , but leaving it the way Nissan built it). I will actually be sealing up a couple here soon (when my stuff gets completed and back to me..) I've never had 100% sure idea if that had a true effect on it , but hey everything counts especially when it comes to those last tolerances.

You can/could/maybe/should re-seal the tail-shaft housing while you're there.
A lot of times the seal is not disturbed when just popping the front.

General over-all fitment can occasionally get tighter on some individual transmissions over others ... just go slow and all will be shiney.

For my front gasket(s) and many things I use/used Nissanpartszone.com (reference #32112) ---> http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Pro ... entsNo=321

^^^ They ship in excellent packaging usually priority. You could also just call/walk into a dealership (provided you can make the business hours).


Datsunmike is theeee default super-source as we all know though ! :thumbs:
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
1. Make progress until broke.
2. Go make mo money.
3. Repeat.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby Laecaon » Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:32 am

I used this last night! First time I have taken apart a manual transmission. Thanks
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby BLUE » Sat Sep 21, 2013 5:34 pm

Laecaon wrote:I used this last night! First time I have taken apart a manual transmission. Thanks


Awesome ! Glad you found it useful Jacob :thumbs: you're welcome.
DRIVEN » Sat Oct 11, 2014 10:24 am wrote:
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby datsunmike » Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:41 am

Front covers use a small paper gasket. 32112-E9001 about $5 but likely if you ask for it they will tell you to just use any sealer. Both sides of the adapter plate use a sealer. I've done several tailstocks and used a gray sealer similar to what everyone calls 'Honda Bond'. It's not RTV, although I have seen it used also, this goes on like toothpaste and needs 20 min it set up, and then join. Use very sparingly.
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Re: How To --- Take off L-series/KA/CA/SR front case

Postby metalmonkey47 » Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:36 pm

Well done DTP!!! I've been wanting to break down my broken 4speed for a while for an inspection, and now I know how

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