Waynos work truck.

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wayno
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Location: Vancouver WA

Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby wayno » Thu Mar 15, 2018 10:10 pm

It works fine, it's kinda weird but something behind the dash clicks before the dash lights come on, sometimes it tales a while.
They are not as bright as when I had them wired for 12 volts, but I can see everything just fine, and they dim to basically off by turning the knob.
I did notice bleeding to other areas, if I drive a lot at night I might try to do something about it but I really don't drive at night much anymore.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
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wayno
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Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:44 pm
Location: Vancouver WA

Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby wayno » Sat Mar 24, 2018 12:49 pm

I now know what this truck weighs, it is 3940lbs put away wet, that is around 500lbs more than it weighed before the chassis change, but it has a dump bed now and instead of using wood for the flatbed I used steel, don't know which weighs more on that front, it's likely a wash, but the hydraulic assembly and associated steel beams are likely where most the extra weight came from.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
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DRIVEN
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Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby DRIVEN » Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:21 pm

Fatty! My old pickup was 2800#.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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wayno
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Location: Vancouver WA

Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby wayno » Sun Mar 25, 2018 2:13 pm

I have had a vibration lately when I start out that goes away when I get going, it only happened when I just let out the clutch, but another vibration started while at higher rpms, so today I lifted the bed and front of the truck and inspected the driveline, the front U-joint of the rear drive line just over the carrier cross member was bad and the carrier rubber piece was really bad.
I tried to remove a good rubber piece from another drive line I have and I could not get it to budge, so I did the rubber hose/zip tie fix on that, I also had another rear drive line piece that was good so I installed that on the front piece of drive line I repaired with the hose/zip tie fix.
I took it a couple blocks and all was good, we shall see if it holds up at freeway speeds without vibration, I suspect the starting out vibration was the center of the drive line moving around in the rubber piece enclosure, the freeway vibration was likely the bad U-joint.
I need a tool to remove them rubber pieces from the drive lines, I tried knocking it off with a chisel and hammer but it didn't move, I didn't want to ruin it trying to get it off so I didn't really hit it that hard.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
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wayno
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Location: Vancouver WA

Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby wayno » Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:38 pm

I had a squeak after the fix that went away for the most part, I suspect it is the other u-joint, when I greased it only 2 of the joints had grease coming out of them, I expect I will have to do that u-joint within the year, but I already changed the u-joint in the drive line I removed, so I will just change it out when I notice that one getting loose, too bad that front connection is under the cab, that makes it a pain to change it out unless I remove the whole 2 poece drive line which is also a pain.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein
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DRIVEN
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Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby DRIVEN » Fri Mar 30, 2018 5:40 am

2 piece drivelines can be troublesome, for sure. Ever had it balanced? New joints, carrier, and balancing might make it feel like a whole different truck.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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wayno
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Location: Vancouver WA

Re: Waynos work truck.

Postby wayno » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:48 am

That drive line can only go in 4 different ways, if vibration bothers me I can try a different position,
I suppose I should have marked the other original drive line before I took it apart so I could put it back the same way, but that one can only go in 4 different ways of which one of them ways was balanced before I put in the new ball joint.
Right now I do not recall having a vibration, I had a squeak starting out under load, it went away when I got moving after around 25mph, fact is it squeaked and then one time it made a much louder squeal for a second like when the lower counter shaft bearing lets loose in the transmission, it has not squeaked much since, I do not believe it was the transmission squeaking because the squeaking happened the first time I got up to speed after fixing the drive line, all I know for sure is that it doesn't have that clunking or clang it had before when the u-joint was bad.
When I pulled all my drive lines out of the shed I pulled the original modified drive line from the 521 also, it looked really close, since the rear part has a slip joint I may look at that one again if I have any more issues.
“The difference between genius and stupidly is that genius has its limits” Albert Einstein

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