New World Datsuns...

Got your head right.

Laecaon wrote:Ive seen them that high. Same with the SSS tail lights.

Well, guess I can scratch those off my parts list. Flip'n nutty.

Is this reaching, or has the world gone insane while I was on my lunch break? Almost $1000 more than the last one I saw.

http://510forsale.com/supersonic-grill-poway-ca/

Taterhead wrote:Just finished reading all of that shit. Threw in my .02 on the other thread. Wow.
The whole thing would've went better if he'd just worded his 1st post differently.

Totally agree Tater. Not sure if it was prescribed or self care, but Mike is taking a break from moderating.

17 pages of DM totally spinning out of control. Ugly

Hmmmm, mileage or more power... is this a trick question?

Ay Adam, Thanks for checking out my build thread man. Funny When I saw your name it took me a while to connect it back here. That header is SEX bro.

so instead of assembling my KA last night http://i1356.photobucket.com/albums/q733/Eagle_Adam/79%20KC%20DD%20-%203rd%20times%20the%20charm/1524848_677262118973394_2015117390_n_zpsd2f46730.jpg i hung out with these fuckers Sometimes you pay the price and develop "medical issues" when going with the ...

Nothing like a little trigger therapy to harness the power of the force young Jedi.

HEll YA!

The one part that is bothering me is the "correct" placement of the ring gaps and keeping them that way while installing them in the block Any random placement of about 90% offset will do. Really this is not super important, because the rings will naturally migrate in rotation when the motor runs ...

You'll be amazed how easy it is to drop the pistons. When building a motor, dat-zen is the name of the game. Keep in mind, a free spinning bearing is only half way good. You should use Plastigauge to check the actual clearances on your new crank and rod bearings to make sure they're properly sized ...

bonvo wrote:this page lacks pics adam lol

X2

I want to buy al aluminum rad for 2 reasons A. It's sexy B. less rad hoses in the bay you forgot one: C. Aluminum is almost 2X more thermo-conductive than the Copper brass (70% Cu, 30% Zi) rads are made of. Good, or bad, thats the vicious nature of obsession. With every improvement there's more ...

Just read through your build thread Adam, and it so reminds me of when I was wrench'n on my first 510s. Good Times! Only difference is, looks like you're actually doing shit right the first time. I wasn't that smart. I'm looking forward to watching this truck come together. Should be a kick ass ...

Pretty sure thats a 69 due to the round rear side marker and the tail lights. I believe the the 68 did not have the little chrome garnish.

I here what you're say'n Draker. I tell you bro, there must be some kind of 817 color code conspiracy. Good call on bringing the gas door for reference though. Funny thing is I had a 70 four door back in the day that may have been the same color. Bit obscured by the camo, but you get the idea. Don't ...

Well, here is the debacle.. Dude, That's not a "debacle, that's a alpha omega 68-69. Be aware, there may be differences in that year's color coding vs. 70-73. Just make sure you have proper year for the code you're looking for. Try this: 8th row down 3rd from the left. This looks like the paint you ...

Race fuel is sold localy here. 7-10 bucks a gallon still. 100$ a fill up for us. Most of the guys buying it run full built old american muscle. They look at you weird filling a race jug in a datsun. The only concern ive ever had with e85 is that ethenol has a large molecular structure, and it does ...

Just saw this stuff come on the market and thought I'd post it here. FTW Race fuel is a highly oxygenated e85 that has the equivalent of 120 octane. It comes in 5 gal sealed drums and is stupid over priced at $175 each plus $250 fixed shipping rate. I'll bet that because it's the "New Hot Race ...