My '71 510 goon

[71Goon]

So since Lou figured out who I am, I suppose it's probably time to make more of an intro post here. Not that I've ever been all that active over at Ratsun, but I do post from time to time and usually check in here and there several times a day. I've gotten some excellent information both places, with much of the info over there coming users active on both forums (or all 3 if you count the Realm). I guess I'm more of a lurker than anything else.

My wagon is my 3rd Datsun - my first was a '67 Roadster and then I had a '70 521 for a short time. I bought the 521 for my son to use as a DD, but I decided I wanted him in something a bit more modern especially for his first ride. I never should have sold my Roadster, but live and learn I guess.

Anyway, I picked up my wagon a bit over a year ago now and have been slowly getting things done so I can use it as my DD. It's actually a pretty solid and clean car, but definitely has some issues that need to get worked out. Here is some of what I've done so far:

- Installed a 32/36 Weber
- Switched over to Pertronix (made a huge difference)
- New dash cap
- Installed OEM tach
- Rebuilt calipers
- Found some decent mirrors (though not technically correct)
- New carpet kit & sound deadener
- New seat belts
- Installed drop blocks for the rear
- New water pump

I'm in the process right now of rebuilding my stock front struts with 280zx inserts. I'm going to cut the springs to lower it a little and stiffen it up some. I have a box full of front end parts (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc.) so I figure I'll probably replace that stuff while I'm at it. Once I get all that stuff done and get it aligned, I'm hoping it will feel a little more solid on the freeway - as it is I'm not all that comfortable in heavy traffic.

I kind of have a 'less is more' mindset, so I won't be altering things too much from original. A few things I hope to do before too long:

- Install 200sx dogleg I got over the summer
- Possibly rebuild the l20 short block I have in storage
- Rechrome bumpers
- Repaint original seafoam/gray-green

I know there are other things, but that's all I can come up with off the top of my head.

Anyway, I'm sure I'll be asking for advice here and there about things - it's been a bit of a learning experience for me.

And since they are pretty much mandatory, here are a couple pics:

[Laecaon]

That wagon is YUMMY!

[510freak]

detective Lou

Welcome to NWDatsuns Tim.
Its sure is a clean wagon,well done on finding this goon

[Draynor]

Clean wagon man!

[Ni10]

welcome to the form Tim. Your wagon is one of my favorite stock looking wagons.

Looking forward to reading the progress.

[izzo]

Wow. talk about a time capsule. That is one clean car man. Lucky you

[Eagle_Adam]

holy shit...


claen enough to eat off of!

[71Goon]

Thanks guys - 20' or so sure does make it look pretty decent

Anyway, so I've got one side of my front end torn apart and went to install the ball joint and, hey, I've got 11mm knuckles instead of 14mm ones. I swear if it's not one thing it's another. I figure I'm better off switching to 14mm knuckles instead of getting yet another pair of ball joints, so I'm on the hunt.

[510freak]

You have the 11mm knuckles in a 71, hmm thats interesting,wonder if someone swapped out the early cross member too?

[71Goon]

How do I identify an early cross member vs a later one? Does it matter one way or the other? I do have an l20b in my car and I found a thread where someone was searching for an early cross member specifically for an l20b swap - is there something about the early cross members that works better for the swap?

[510freak]

There is a ton of differing info out there,But in short the early cross members raise the pivot point for the lower control arm(this is a good thing if you want a lowered car) The guys at Dime Quarterly have done a tremendous job compiling info its is here.
I cannot recall if the motor sat lower when a L-20 was installed, I think that that is more along the lines of changing the block mounts to gain the needed drop of the motor(so that the valve cover wont hit the hood)

https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0 ... A5ODA1YjU1

Volume 7 Issue #4 page 12

Many thanks to the guys at DQ,its info like this that is much needed and well documented

[DRIVEN]

How did this thing slip by me? I think I'm in love.

[71Goon]

Thanks - I'm looking forward to when I get to the point where I can drive it every day.

My next project is the strut swap - I picked up a set of ZX struts from PnP during their sale and have calipers, bearings, seals and RCAs on the way. I'm going to drop the front about 1.5" which is a little more than I thought I would but I want to match the gap in the rear. After dropping it, I'll be able to get the front end aligned and hopefully eliminate the wandering.

So here is a question - I initially was just going to stick with the 510 struts and ended up getting a brake booster. With the ZX swap, should I still use the booster or should I skip it? I'm not sure if maybe there is a technical reason to not use it with the ZX calipers. Also, should I swap out the master cylinder? I've heard some say you can use the 7/8 master but others recommend going with the 15/16 master when swapping. What are the benefits of one over the other? Is there a difference in how the pedal will feel?

I wish there were more updates, but it's been on hold mostly waiting for that stupid half off sale at PnP and now waiting for brake/hub parts. I did get most of my front end parts installed - just LCA and sway bar bushings are left now.

Sorry for the questions, but I'm learning as I'm going.

[DRIVEN]

I might not be the right person to give advice on this since I have basically the same collection of parts yet to be installed on my car, but...
Since the ZX used a booster and a 15/16" master, that should be a good combination. You don't need to upgrade to either and the brakes will still work well. It would make sense that you can expect less travel and slightly higher pedal effort from the 15/16" master vs sticking with the 7/8". IIRC Jacob runs a 7/8" with his ZX brakes and likes them.

[DRIVEN]

Are those roadster wheels?

[H5WAGON]

One clean wagon....Love that center console.

[71Goon]

Are those roadster wheels?

Roadster wheels with 620 caps. They fit really well but with the ZX struts I'm thinking I might end up wanting to use spacers to push the front back out some since they'll move in about 3/4" (or so I've heard). I had slots and really liked the look but the backspacing was more than I wanted and the fronts rubbed.

[DRIVEN]

Have you test fit them over the ZX brakes? I was under the impression that only a few aftermarket 14s would fit over them. I've been wrong before.

Love the look, BTW.

[71Goon]

I've heard of issues with 13" wheels but not 14" though I could be wrong. I figure at worst I might need to get spacers but I'll be able to mock everything up ahead of time. Either way I'm in too deep to go back on the ZX struts and I really want the better brakes they'll give me.

[Taterhead]

IIRC you have to run at least 14's to fit over the calipers. I don't know the size of roadster wheels though.