Wynona the wagon's resurrection!

[DRIVEN]

Carbide

[HRH]

So this is when I'm glad I'm older and possibly wiser. I got back from dinner, felt much better after eating. I was just getting ready to cut into the firewall, when I realized a problem. The mounting studs for the 280z booster are about 1 1/4" long, whereas the Maxima (to get through that big cavity with sound deadening and felt, are about 3" long. Whoops. Not going to work without some effort. I may end up ditching the booster after all. Going to search online now for different brake boosters that fit Nissan with a vertical mount master cylinder. Maybe I'll find a 720 one that will work or something similar.

[HRH]

It looks like the wagon is not getting a brake booster due to the stud length issues. I'm thinking it's going to be set up like the Z car. 7/8 regular master cylinder mounted on a big plate. Annoyingly, the only similar master cylinder I can get is for '74 620s, which is the same master, but a 3/4 bore. If I use a 3/4 bore designed for manual brakes I have 226 psi for every 100 pounds of pressure on the pedal, whereas the 7/8 minus the booster is only 160 psi for every 100 pounds of pressure.

Of course, I can't find a new manual brake master for the 620, nothing but remanufactured.

[wayno]

Centric are all new(no rebuilds), that is what I use in all my trucks, never had a bad one yet.
Sorry if I knew which box the 1979 620 master was in I would have a part number.

The number might be this one.

Centric 130.42303

[HRH]

79 is a 7/8s, lol. I looked in my spare parts bin, have a brand new reman there I probably got 8 years ago. Still in the box. Same as the 280z one I have currently. Only the early 620s have the 3/4 master, no power brakes. I'm just going to use the 7/8s. Rose and I have strong legs, we're not scared!!

[wayno]

I used the 79 brake master on the 73/74 620 booster in my 521 work truck, I believe it is the same master I used in the 521 kingcab diesel connected to a Ford Courier booster, but that was a while ago so I don't know for sure.

[HRH]

Yep, that sounds right, they're just all going to be 7/8 bore instead of the 3/4 bore I wanted. With a booster it'll work great. Without a booster it's just going to be harder pedal than usual, but it will stop just fine depending on how strong your foot is.

[HRH]

Wayno, have you ever re-clocked a booster? I may disassemble the extra Maxima booster I have to see if it's possible. I'm only worried about re-sealing once it's apart. Much less, not sure if I have the tools to un-crimp it.

[wayno]

No I just look around and find what I need, the 73/74 Datsun 620 booster works for most everything, but so does the Ford Courier booster, and the Ford Courier brake master has a remote reservoir, on my 47 Chevy truck the reservoir was 3 feet away from the master.
Here is the Ford booster/brake master in my 520 when it had a Weber.





Here it is with Dual SUs, note the brake booster/master is where the clutch master used to be.

[HRH]

If I could remove my strut tower, it would work perfectly. Got my piece of aluminum plate. 1/2" thick ought to do the trick, no more booster! Though I may still disassemble one for shits and giggles.

[HRH]

I had forgotten to update this, so here you go!














Weasel is helping. He's awefully cute.

[HRH]

Alright, off to go find a suitable bolt to modify for a brake master push rod. There is a 521 in pull and save and my Spaldings guy said his yard guy spent an hour and couldn't get it off. So either it's goofy, or the yard guy doesn't know Datsuns. Either way, think I'll make a bolt work. And Rose's Mazdaspeed needs a battery. 6 year old factory battery wasn't happy starting this morning. Had to jump it with the truck. With my 5 year old NAPA battery which is still going strong.

[DRIVEN]

Yard guy clearly doesn't.

[HRH]

Lol, that's what I said. Unless some methhead welded it to the pedal or something. But no matter, I figured out what I'm going to do, got so stuck on keeping it metric, realized all I needed was metric on the pedal connection side, the other side I can just figure the length, lop the head off a long bolt, then put a nut down the shaft and weld it on, and presto, I'm done! Figured that out while at ACE, of course they didn't have the correct length of 10x1.25 bolt, not surprising. The lady asked me, "do you know what thread that is?" I'm like yes, I do, you fucking idiot! Do YOU know what thread it is or what a Datsun is?! No, actually I was polite. I'm sure they get a bunch of morons who think bolt size is determined by head size. It's a 10 mil! (Head, with a 6x1.00 thread)

[HRH]

Alright, here we are!

[HRH]

The final result! Got most of the air out, but I'd rather pop open the side vents and recycle into the master. However, being down outlet and the lines up, it should just bleed out naturally. Seems to hold firm now anyway. Probably going to bleed at a later time, then re-check for leaks.

Note the rusty condition of the brake bracket assembly. That's just 1980s Nissan less paint technology.

[DRIVEN]

Just go fast and stop!

[flatcat19]

You have a local 521 and you say nothing to me?

What color? How complete?

[HRH]

It was decent for body, some dings. Had some front munch, but not core support bad. Think a fender was crapped up in front, bumper too. What do you need off it?

It was either blue or green, don't remember which.

[flatcat19]

I might want the hood. Maybe more.


May even plan a trip up there soon to scope on it.