Jacob's goon build

[Laecaon]

Todays post is about exhaust.

I decided the car is getting 2.5" turbo back.

So that means I need a new dump pipe since the OEM one isnt large enough for the task.





So the other thing that arrived was a muffler! Its a Borla, because I have never heard a Borla muffler sound bad and they arent crazy expensive.

[Laecaon]

Changed my mind on which fuel filter to run. I had a filter from a early 2000s Tahoe, but it requires fittings to use and meh. So I decided to just use what the S13 guys all use, the 300ZX filter. So exciting!





Got the over flow tank mounted to my air box.




And in car

[DRIVEN]

I like updates.

[Laecaon]

Gas tank...

[DRIVEN]

I've been down that road. I tin snipped the top out of an S10 tank at Pick-N-Pull and welded the whole assembly in. Nice, cheap GM fuel pump. No doubt, you've got something more exotic planned.

[Laecaon]

Yes I do... I looked at a bunch of cars at the JY and decided I didnt like any of it.

I will be adding a baffle to stop fuel from sloshing backwards on acceleration.

[Laecaon]

Looking at my list of things to do, and I decided to knock out the last thing for the coolant system (well still need temp sensor...); the fan shroud!

Saw a guy on FB with an excellent idea. So I copied.

Use a sheet pan. I ordered a 18x21 pan on Amazon for $17. I quartered it and trimmed away a lot of what is not needed. My Fan is quite large so not much will be left. Luckily this pan has a steel ring going around under the lip, I was able to use this to tack all the pieces together. Now to take it to work for a first weld.

[Laecaon]

^^^^^ PHUCK that idea. I worked on it some more, then asked myself why? Its ugly and doesnt match, and the fan is a tad bit bigger...


Anyways I cracked open the transmission to see if it had a synchroed reverse or not, because reasons....

[DRIVEN]

Didn't even know synchroed reverse was a thing.

Glad you scrapped the shroud.

[Laecaon]

The later transmissions got it. Since this is a KA transmission, the S14 would have had a syncroed reverse. Without a synchto on reverse it makes it a S13 transmission.

[noflers]

Great info! /\/\/\

Looks like you're build is making good progress. Mine will be coming back from the dead soon...

[Laecaon]

I think I just ordered the rest of the transmission parts... Yay.

[Laecaon]

And they came in! Ordered from NissanParts.cc which is the online website for a dealership in Washington. Everything single part I ordered came from out from a different Nissan warehouse/dealership, lol.

Anyways, got a couple of new nuts, A bearing that I bent, 2 rings that the manual says needs to be replaced, a shifter boot, and a 2nd gear synchro.

[Laecaon]

Dont worry, Work has started over here again.

I have actually had the KA transmission torn down since before I started work on the BMW.

Anyways, a teaser pic. I have much further along than this.

[Laecaon]

Ok I had some fun with building this transmission. Had to tear apart the CA transmission as well to get the 3rd/4th synchro hub pressed off.

Pressed it onto the transmission I am building (KA one) and I quickly realize it is way bigger than the 3rd gear synchro... damnit.

So I use the CA 3rd and 4th gears. And I got lucky. The CA transmission used the same 3 piece synchro for 2nd and 3rd, and just used the 1st gear synchro on 4th as well. Well I had ordered an OEM 2nd gear synchro and my kit came with one as well. Whew.

So I used the kits 3 piece on the 3rd, and the new OEM on 2nd. I ended up reusing the 4th synchro from the CA transmission as I could hardly perceive any wear.

New bigger synchro hub means a bigger coupling sleeve (couples hub with gear). And then I noticed the 3rd/4th shift fork from the CA transmission was steel and not aluminum...cool.

I basically use anything from the KA transmission that I could as it was in better shape. But I essentially built a Japanese spec CA transmission with a taller 5th gear.

View from Driver side:



View from Passenger side:

[DRIVEN]

I like that a lot. Glad you added that last sentence because I had no idea what you were trying to accomplish.

[Laecaon]

I was going to rebuild the ka transmission and slap the CA front case on it. But then I broke a key and expensive part. So I had to borrow parts from the CA transmission which is why it's now a essentially the CA transmission with a taller 5th.

Also the CA transmission might as well not have had a main shaft input bearing. The shaft had a ton of wobble. The KA one had some.

[Laecaon]

Totally forgot to post the pic of the it back together... Still need to sort the sensors for it...

Painted it... Aluminum... but its super bright. Meh, its going under a car, and its easier to clean grease/oil off paint than raw aluminum.





I did tap the compressor housing of the turbo to a 1/8NPT fitting, for the wastegate to see boost from the source.




Also made a new bracket for the wastegate. The original one I made was ugly, but functional. Made from 1 piece of aluminum...

[wayno]

I put my boost gauge fitting farther down the line near the intake manifold, but mine is a diesel.
I also control my waste gate with a valve, I put a tee in the line between the compressor and the waste gate and pipe it into the cab to a valve, if I want more boost I open the valve a little and release some of the pressure, I call it a controlled leak, the bigger the leak the higher the boost, with no leak my boost is around 7/8psi if I have not messed with the waste gate adjustment.
I normally let it get to almost 15psi when getting on the freeway, but after I get to cruising speed I want it to be 4/6psi.
You buy a pyrometer gauge yet, you need one of them along with a boost gauge, I have had good luck with the Autometer 2654 pyrometer so far, I look for deals on ebay, they are not cheap, boost gauges are cheap, I believe having a needle is better than digital, but that is just me.

[Laecaon]

Everyone does at turbo, at least on gasoline engines. In fact my stock turbo has a port brazed on from factory. This is a SR20 turbo, so a slightly bigger compressor wheel. The idea is mostly it sees the most boost first, so it has the earliest chance to bleed boost off.

The Tee you have is called a Boost Controller. And yes, its a measure amount of leak. My stock wastegate is rated at 7psi (diaphragm only, without adjustment). I will get one soon...

Gasoline engines really do not need pyrometers. You have bigger issues if you have high EGTs, and you will know it.