Really Ratty Rusty Ruby 510/miata

[Indy510]

I started worrying about the gas that's been sitting for 1.5 years. So I drained the tank and put some fresh gas mixed with STABIL in. Then bolted everything back into the engine bay:



Amazingly, it started with more than half the interior wiring removed from the harness:

[Laecaon]

I only mentioned the rocker panels/ side skirts for a visual reason. To make the car look lower. Kinda like a kit on a S13.


Your welds are definitely looking much better.

I had the gas sitting in my Datsun for 3 years. Drained it, put it in the BMW.

[DRIVEN]

This project is still ridiculous and I still love it.

[wayno]

I agree, I like this one.

[Taterhead]

I think we all share an affinity for it.

[Ni10]

cough cough



any up dates ?

asking for the Datsun people.

[Indy510]

Not really an update, but this will catch everyone up to real time. I'm almost done with school for the summer, so I will have more time in a few weeks.

During spring break, in March, I put the 510 part back on:

[Indy510]

The problem is: even with the 510 being 4" wider than stock, there is still barely any room for structure to brace the 510 body. You can see how it's basically just door skins and a 2x2" frame that needs to be removed (if I ever want to sit in it).

[Indy510]

My idea is to build a "frame" around the Miata, that the 510 will be attached to. Hopefully this will make the 510 body parts strong enough and removeable (at least until the roll cage is finished)

I got this harbor freight tubing roller, with SWAG offroad upgraded wings and a 1.5" square die:

[Indy510]

I originally used 1.5" square tube for rocker panels, but they looked goofy sticking out past the doors. So, these 1.5"x0.75" rockers should be flush with the doors:

[Indy510]

Same idea with the firewall.

[Indy510]

I've been using this Dewalt 14" cut off saw, to make nicer cuts. It definitely made the firewall bends cleaner than a Sawzall would have ..

The problem is it leaves a razor blade sharp edge on anything you cut. So, I sliced my thumb open a few weeks ago and haven't touched metal since. Let me know if you have any ideas for making the 510 skin stronger and removeable.

[jtinluvr]

If that chop saw has a fiber type blade, you should swap it for a carbide tip dry cut blade. Cuts faster and cleaner and as long as you don’t lose teeth, can be sharpened a couple times. For the skin, I’m not sure what you can do stiffen an original skin without making a new one out of thicker metal or rolling beads in it. Maybe weld some 1/4” solid rod in stragic locations? Have you considered dzus fasteners or are you looking for something hidden?

[Laecaon]

I agree, carbide tipped blades would work well. The Evolution blades dont cost too much.

Get yourself a deburr tool. I use Shaviv brand stuff at work, works decently at home too.

[Indy510]

Long time no update. I've been using a belt sander to de-burr the metal right after cutting it. It's quick and leaves the steel ready to weld:

[Indy510]

[Indy510]

This is my idea for making the 510 body removable … I built a frame that surrounds what's left of the Miata, and I will attach the 510 to that structure:

[Indy510]

I rolled two different bends to fit the changing curve of the wiper cowl:

[Indy510]

[Indy510]