New World Datsuns...

Since it's rainy, and dark, and I got motivated really fucking late and am home alone, figured it was a good time to dust off the s110 rear axle I got from blue and set about working towards rear discs. Been reading for a good portion of the day trying to figure out how to get the axles out as I've never done it before. Outside of some nuts in places that I couldn't fit a ratchet, it went fairly smoothly. Got the gears pulled too, to see what it had...3.7. Damn. Was hoping for better, but not counting on it lol. And that little hammer is the best thing I've ever made. Heavy enough for some good power, small enough to fit anywhere. Now I gotta hope I have the motivation to clear up around the back of the goon and pull the drums off it tomorrow.

OK, so question for those with better knowledge than my questionable knowledge. I'm assuming that the part of the axle I'm pointing at is the wheel bearing. There seemed to be a little grease on the outside of it, and some(the yellow stuff in the other picture) outside of the axle seal. Do I need to put some new grease on there before putting these into the 710, and if so, is there a kind I should be on the lookout for?

Parts goon gauge cluster came out. Wanna do the led dash that a few of you(izzo at least) have done. Figured it would be good to practice on parts than the actual car, plus I can mock it up first. glad I did too. Broke this one slightly but I know where my hangup was now. Bright side is it isn't noticeably broken, so worst comes to worst this one is still good to be used. At this pace I'll be done with the car before my kid hits 16... Maybe...

So I had a realization today that made me realize I have too many cars. I have 10 jackstands, and could use at least another pair cause they're all in use...

Old Mitsubishi wheels coming off, goons ass is in the air. Glad I can still close my garage door with the hatch open, have all my tools in the back.

Looks like someone had a hard time with this drum. 2 extra holes drilled on one side to put screws in to get it off. None of the three holes on that side worked...thankfully the other one did

And for shits, giggles, and future reference since I couldn't ever find anything confirming, 240z finned drums do fit the 710. So small upgrade if wanted. Got shoes off, most of the bolts off one side, gotta figure out how to get the ebrake off the back so I can pull out the axles. That's as far as I got before it got too dark and my neck started playing havoc with me. Couldn't see the ebrake so I'll try again tomorrow if it's not too cold and my neck ain't overly pissed at me.

That black seal in the axle housing should be changed with the axle, just fill the v in the seal with high temp grease, and the a small amount in the little groove in the backing plate. Don't let the axle hit, sit on, or slide against the new seal putting the axle in.

Fact: 240Z drums make wagons sexier.

That's what I needed to know banner. Figured I needed to change that seal, think oreillys has em for like 4 bucks. And yes driven, they do, but discs are even sexier. And after dealing with taking off both in the last two days, I was reminded why I want to do this. Don't need the extra stopping power, just lazy and don't wanna adjust drums or deal with replacing them compared to discs lol

I hear what you're saying. Once the drums are set up they really aren't that much trouble. I drive mine almost daily and might adjust them once a year. Isn't the 710 rearend an H190 vs. the H165 with the discs?

I believe it's a h165. However, both have a 29 spline axle, which is all that really matters. My 510 goon has rear discs done in the same way as I'm doing this(done by someone other than me). The guy I bought it from that did it is the one that gave me the info on what parts I needed for the swap and why it works. Unfortunately, didn't tell me what fucking rotors and calipers he put on the 510, had to modify some brake pads last time I did the brakes on it lol

Also as an added bonus, had a buddy stop by last night that looked at the bearings on the shafts. We're pretty sure they've been changed. Look too good to be 30+ years old.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42733 ... rsion-kit/ little bit more info on the swap. Should be fairly straightforward once I get it all apart.

Another question on something else entirely, pulling barrels off two piece wheels OK with tires on, or bad idea?

New seals and grease

Redneck slide hammer to get em off. Then ran into a snag. Should researched farther than I did apparently, no gasket remover which I'm sure I could still get it out with a screwdriver. But also no seal install tool. Didn't realize the shit was a kinda press install. So unless someone has a redneck invention to do this, I'll have to wait until I get some more cash to rent or buy an install tool. On to other things I can do to this I guess

Bit of late night spray bombing coming.

My kid is gonna hate me. My wife on the other hand will love it...and I gotta Co habitate with her longer than him.

Also, the wire wheel was a bad idea. I'll bondo it at a later date after the first spray

And that side is black

I'd take the tires off before removing the wheel center but that's just me.

Taterhead » Mon Mar 14, 2016 7:49 am wrote:I'd take the tires off before removing the wheel center but that's just me.

got to agree. How would remove the tire with no center ?

Mmk. Just debating painting the centers. Not a huge fan of light gold myself, but I'll wait and see how they end up actually looking on whatever I put them on.

OK, so I want to make sure I'm understanding what I'm reading correctly. To run rear discs I either need to run a disc/disc master, or remove the drum end residual valve from a Disc/drum master and replace it with a disc residual valve. Im assuming that using a front disc residual valve from say a 3/4 master and putting it into a 7/8 master would work? Or does it need to be from the same size master, or need to be a rear disc valve? I have 2 good 7/8 masters and a fubar'd 3/4 that I'm thinking the residual is still good in. One of the 7/8 is newly reman'd, I'd like to use it as a base but if I'm gonna need to cannibalize a rear valve I'll just get a 15/16.