New World Datsuns...

This area has no access to natural gas, one of the neighbors has a propane tank, so no pilot lights in this house.
I have been thinking about moving the compressor outside and closing the door, it's pretty big but I put it where it is so I can move it.
I painted my 520 out in the driveway, I used 2 stage, I will likely use 2 stage again, and it appears I will have to sand the primer coat so I will have to tape the door off again as I will have to move it outside to sand it, I do not do good enough bodywork to use regular primer, this is the reason I will be using the stock off white color it was originally.

The compressor is outside and piped/wired, I also made a plywood piece that holds 2 fans that fits under the garage door, I am going to leave it where it is till the truck cab is completely primed.
The Roadster is out in the driveway with a cover over it, it is trapped behind all my vehicles and no one will likely be able to steal it, but I want to get this truck painted so the Roadster can be put back inside.
I hope to prime it this weekend, then paint it next weekend.

I'm glad you're tackling this. Good to see a Datsun actually being worked on somewhere on this site.

Well I decided to prime it today, sure can see stuff that I could not see before.
I need to go get some more thinner for clean up, I sure don't want this shit plugging anything up.
I am going to have to do a few spots again where I didn't get enough on it.

DRIVEN wrote: ↑Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:19 pm I'm glad you're tackling this. Good to see a Datsun actually being worked on somewhere on this site.

I will repeat, I sure can see what I missed when it is all one color, I can see tiny dents everywhere, they are not going to be fixed, it is just an old truck, it will look alright when I am done, the 520 looked alright.
I think the original off white(or close to it) is going to be the color I go with, light blue will cost more money as I asked about that today, paint is expensive, the farther away from white one gets the more expensive it is.
I talked with a guy today about this process and I might have to seal the primer also before painting, I didn't seal the 520 when I painted it, but this primer appears to be different as I can see where I did bondo work when I could not see the bondo work on the 520 after I primed it, but I put several layers of primer on the 520, this truck only has 2 light/medium layers on it so far in most spots, I have had no sagging of the primer so far.

I made the mistake years ago of not paying attention to the data sheets of the primers/paints I was using. I was using a lacquer primer (that should tell you how long ago it was) and the data sheet said it needed to be sealed before top coating. Well, I couldn’t be bothered with that and just sprayed the color over the primer. While the finished product looked just fine, it turned out that the top coat did not adhere to the primer and was very prone to chipping, since there was no chemical bond. With anything paint related, you should trust what the jobber recommends, BUT verify with the manufacturer data sheet.

^^^1000% this^^^

I did not use a sealer on the 520, but I did not use Omni MP282 primer either, I used EuroPrime 4-1 HS Primer and now I am regretting using the Omni brand, I just looked at the data on the sealer, and it has to be sanded/scuffed before the top coat, I am tired of sanding already and I still have the interior and the box to do after this cab is painted.
I actually just finished sanding the primer and decided that I was not going to fix anything else, it is good enough for me, I am tired of sanding and if I have to do much more I am likely going to lose interest again and it will sit for another year.

Omni is fine. Just read. You can pull up all of the data sheets online before you buy anything.

We used a lot of Omni over the years too. I don't need to remind you that paint is a system and all ingredients need to be compatible. Carry on. Then pics.

It's too late, I already bought the Omni type primer and I am going to need more primer, so these are my choices, buy more Omni type and have to buy a sealer and have to sand on that coat also to top coat, or I can buy the other primer(EuroPrime) and prime this cab again with that and I will have enough left over to do the interior and box, I will not have to apply and sand sealer on the interior or the box thereby skipping that step, I am already screwed on the cab, I am going to have to sand something, either sealer or the new primer coat, but I suspect I will be out less money not having to buy the sealer, I will certainly remove one step on the interior and box.
I am sick and tired of sanding, the body work I did so far is not really that great as when I primed it that was rather obvious, I bought glazing putty today to fix all the small pin holes I could not see before it was all one color, this glazing putty is made to apply on primer so I do not need to sand all the primer off to apply it, I will just prime over it once all of them pin holes are filled.
I have had no issues with the 520 top coat, it is not flaking/lifting or anything like that, the only issue I have had is when I grind metal stuff around that white truck I need to blow it off before it rains on it otherwise the little metal pieces rust on the white paint and stain it, I already had that happen and it took me a while to figure it out, my red trucks do not have this issue as if it does have these tiny little stains I cannot see them in the red paint.

I went to the place I bought the EuroPrimer primer from a few years ago, I asked a couple questions and got an attitude, I mentioned I read online(PDF link from the manufacturer) that did not mention a sealer in all the steps to paint a vehicle with their primer and got more attitude, I said thankyou and left.
I went back to the other place and started asking questions, I left with a gallon of Lacquer primer and a gallon of "Medium Dry acrylic Lacquer Thinner" which is half the price of the other stuff, I tried that today and plugged up my paint gun right away, I guess this stuff needs to be mixed a lot more than the other stuff I was using, I pulled the paint gun apart and cleaned it out and it works fine now.
A lot of the truck doesn't need any more primer, I used a bunch of glazing putty in quite a few places with small holes#mainly pin holes#, I then used what was left of that other high build primer which only filled the cup about half way, I ran out and made up some of the new primer and finished priming it where it needed it, I will sand it again and then decide if I will seal it or paint it, my big deal is that the sealer is not sandable and I am not good enough to spray/paint anything that is not sandable, that is why I cannot use a sealer type primer, so in the end I am likely better off just painting it and if it doesn't work out I can sand it in the bad spots and spray it with paint again like I did on the 520, I have a bunch of coats on that truck, at least three coats on everything and more coats where I had an issue, the hood got several coats as I was spraying/painting outside, I finally got lucky on the top and laid out a clean coat, but in the end I had to remove the hood, hang it on my trailer vertically and paint/spray it that way, it came out clean on the first coat that way.
I hope to get this cab exterior painted this weekend, I believe I am going to used a light blue like this photo below copied from a Ratsun thread in Project Datto, sorry I cannot get the photo to show.

I like that color a lot.

It's not that sealer isn't sandable, it's just best if you can avoid it. You can sand a run or orange peel if need be but its best if the sealer is untouched.

That photo was not showing when I previewed and posted that reply, it just showed the link.
I keep sanding thru the primer as it is not going on smooth, I do not expect anything else to go on smooth either, I am having a lot of trouble with these primers, I didn't have this issue with the primer on the 520 after I quit using the HVLP, but that was a couple years ago.
I have decided to just spot prime now and feather it into the existing primer the best I can, some areas are good to go, but if I prime them again by priming the whole thing again I will just keep sanding thru the primer over and over.
I am thinking about removing the hood and painting it separately, I could paint the underside of it first and see if I can lay it on smooth, then do the truck, then turn it over and do the top of the hood.

I keep editing your posts. You cant just post the link. You have to put it in the image tags. "" or use the full editor and push the photo button to have the tags auto added.

So I tried the IMG box after coping a photo from that thread, we shall see if it works, it appears to be there in the pre-view.

I actually wanted a slightly lighter blue than this blue, being a stock color is not as important than having it be a color that shows less imperfections, I would rather it be a 10/20 foot paint job than a 100 foot paint job.
I am going to start sanding again after breakfast, I did the driver side and hood last night, I sanded thru the primer on the hood in one spot also, I will tap on that high spot to lower it and putty it again, I will do the pass side and top today, I sanded thru the primer on the driver side front fender again also, it happens to be a repaired fender from a significant impact, I had another fender but it was different and would not work on this truck, so I used it for parts, but the part I used didn't even fit properly, but I made that section fit by adding metal where needed(rear skirt), I did not attempt to cut the front area off of the other fender as it was damaged in the front also, the headlight mount ring is way better than what I have, but the headlight bucket will hide 99 percent of that issue when mounted, if I ever find a good driver side front fender that fits this early truck I will likely buy it and paint it and install it, it is a 1962 truck sold in 1963, so it is titled as a 1963.

I see it.

I almost have it completely primed, I keep sanding thru the one spot to metal on the hood, it's a very small spot and I wonder if it matters, but having to fix another spot I wore thru around the headlight edge so I need to fix that now also, so I will make a small amount and fix the 2 spots.
This primer goes on smoother but doesn't mix as well, so it is harder to make a batch as I have to stir the mix for a long time then pour it into the cup.
I will likely go buy what I need to paint it tomorrow, I think I am going to have to remove the hood, I will be able to get to all the hard to get to places around the hood area, but I need to finish the hood before removing it, I have never had it off, I hope the bolts come out without issues.

Sounds like you're sneaking up on it. Pulling the hood is a good move I think. Better end result.
Can't wait to see it.