New World Datsuns...

I remember learning to drive and I never did anything like putting it in 1st three times hahaha
Nuts!


Wayno your photos helps but my problem is odd.

Start up... touch the gas to rev it a little and it doesn't really go back to the resting position, keeping me a little revd when I get off the gas.. always having to tap my pedal to get the idle where it should be. .

It's not big of a deal but I'd like to take care of it.
You know on a weber most people have a return spring for the throttle. Maybe I can make something so it always returns.
Idk haha. Maybe I'll just change the way it pulls altogether.

There is a return spring on each carb, that's it, if it is not returning, then something is wrong with one of the carbs, it's adjusted wrong, you need to rev it a little and let it stay at the high idle, then look at the carbs and see which one is not returning.
You should not need any other spring, when you foot is not on the pedal, the linkages should look the same.
Have you adjusted the carbs to put them in sinc yet?

Only by ear. Or with a straw.

But the problem seemed to go away. Maybe it was from sitting a while.

However... I'm pretty sure I blew my rear tranny seal just now on a drive.. Oil going everywhere.... I dont have the plate covering the shifter hole. I could have sworn I changed that out of there.
So I lost some tranny fluid... wonder how much..

would that case some vibration to happen at higher speeds?
Gotta right!?

Vibration would be caused by an out of balance driveline, and/or an in-correct rearend angle compared to the angle at the transmission, it's the same issue when lowering a vehicle with a carrier, the angles need to be correct/the same at both ends.
I would think that if something was out of whack with the driveline, it could cause the yoke seal to leak fluid, of course a bad seal will also leak.

So really my drive line could be at the wrong angle..

This may be the case . Being I have a new driveine. But I'll change the seal. See what happens and go from there.
It wasn't leaking the other times I drove the truck. I drove her two days ago with no oil in the garage the next morning..
I didn't notice oil spraying everywhere tell I was at higher speeds and at about the same time felt some vibrations. So I slowed her down so I could cover the hole with a paper towel..

Don't wanna be wasting gear oil..
What would I do if the angle is wrong? And how does one find this stuff out? What's the max angle there can be. Tranny and diff ends?

I'd like to add.

I'm pretty sure jrock is running this same set up in his rig.
He is way lower then I.
And a few people have used the 520 one piece in the 521 with no real problem.. So I've read.. page 16 on Jrocks project thread says he pretty much just dropped It in.. Then goes on to say he's got a custom 720 trans. Can't really be a long trans cuz the long one wouldn't work with the 520 DL. Soooooooo I believe it's the seal.
Also the 720 trans I have came from a runner. So I didn't balance this Dl with this new 720 yoke on it so I'll do that. Hahaha

Sorry, I write a post, then submit it and walk away from the computer for a while if there is nothing else to read.
OK, the transmission tailshaft is at a certain angle, now the angles I am going to say are exaggerated, but I want you to understand, so here I go, as I said the transmission is at a certain angle, so lets just say it is level, now lets say that the drive coming out of it is at 30 degrees down, so when it connects to the rear end, it needs to be 30 degrees up coming out of the rearend since the driveline exits the transmission 30 degrees down.
If the diveline leaves the rearend at 20 or 15 degrees, then it causes a issue with the balljoint speeding up and slowing down every revolution, this is what causes the vibration, Datzenmike has an illustration on Ratsun in a thread, but I cannot remember which thread it is.

I found the illistration, see how the driveline spins a steady speed, while the other end of the U-joint slows down and speeds up.

So if the angles are the same at both ends, they cancel each other out.
I got the info from this thread on Ratsun.
http://community.ratsun.net/topic/63901 ... ce-of-low/

I believe I understand. Thanks for the illstration think that's what helps me understand.
Now I'm just not sure how to find out the angles..
Mhm.

Another thing. I'm pretty sure I've gone faster 'two days ago' and I didn't feel any vibrations then...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dial-Gauge-Angl ... 3f1a0c7201



I had one of these just months ago. Magically grew legs.


Angles being off could rip/smash the output seal on the trans, causing leaks.


You can correct the angles with diff angle shims. Place under lowering blocks.
$10 a piece at AZ. Baxter's may have a better selection of them.

Oh okay! I've seen those.

Hm.

I am not saying that the angles are your issue, but you need to look at everything, not just one thing.
So look at the angle at the rearend, then look at the transmission output angle, are they different angles?
As Flatcat said, an out of balance driveline can shred things also, depending on how out of balance it is, even a tire with a bump can cause issues, you have to look at everything, are all your lugnuts tight?

Lowering blocks? I've got 3in blocks in the rear. So 4in blocks?

So find out angles then get some diff angle shims if needed.
And again how would I know if it's angle is off? Does my manual tell me this kinda info? Or what?

I'll post some pictures of what the angles are but for now I've got pictures without the tool to find the angles. Haha.
When I do get this tool where exactly do I place it.

A little hard to get under the truck to snap that picture of the front yoke ujoint area.
Any ways that's how things are looking.

Oh I've got a carb sync tool on the way.