New World Datsuns...

It looks like there is more angle at the diff than the tranny to me.

uberkevin » Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:45 pm wrote:

The picture doesn't really help. It looks to me it come out the trans going up and the diff down. Is that right or am I looking at it wrong. Haha. On the front part of the Dl I'm unsure where I'd put my tool to find the angle.

You're gonna have to measure the angles and do the math to know for sure.

None of us can guess it for you.



HF has one of those angle gauges.

I've got the tool. Just need to know what's to much of an angel.
That's what I'm not understanding.. what/where tells me such things. Like does the angle NEED to be 15° up after it come out the trans and can't be any more then 17° or something like that.
Does that make sense?

And so on for the back?

Other wise I just know angles..

either way I don't believe this is my problem. I just think the seal should have been changed and wasnt. Let's hope. This Annnnd maybe because I didn't balance the 720 slip yoke after I put it on the one piece. So ill be doing that too.

They need to be equal. As to offset the others movement.

Didn't you add a piece to your driveline from a different driveline?

The lightest amount of imbalance will shake the shit out of your whole car.

Yes, they need to be the same, if the angle is 5 degrees down out of the tranny, then it needs to be 5 degrees up or down out of the rearend, that way they cancel each other out.

In the photos you posted, the rearend looks like it has more angle, but they are photos which may not show us what is really going on.
The photos look like that the yoke is pointing straight back without much angle, while the rearend looks like it has quite a bit of up angle, I can easily see that in the photo, so if the front of the rearend needs to be twisted down, you can do that with an angled wedge.
Both ends of the driveline need the U-joint to be angled the same.

I'll come look at it Monday or Tuesday if you need.

I'm pretty sure I understand. Thanks guys, flatcat definitely just come over whenever you can. Lol. I'll be looking at stuff today with Rons help a little maybe.

It looks like it might be best money wise to pack the truck in the trailer and move it up the with us the 12th. The plan was to bring it to pack wood and drive it the rest of the way to olympia.
But I need a different radiator.. again.. no oil leaks to worry about. Oil pan gasket cuz I took it off once after I put it on.
But the radiator in it now won't last the 2 hour drive to oly..
I don't have the money to get one as of now.
I have more chances of finding another 521 radiator there as well.

The DATSUN 521 Lz2.3 build is not stopped. I'm finding parts.
What sucks is I had this thing fixed.. He did fix it in one spot the upper hose inlet. Core leaks. In a few spots.

So I managed to get under my truck to get some quick angles if I could.

I got a few but it was damn hard..

So I started with the diff angle. That's 10° up.
The drive line flange that bolts to the diff was at what looked like 3 or 4 degrees.

Transmission yoke is at what looked like a 8° down.
With the gauge needle going the other way on the tool. Other way as in on the rear diff the needle went right. From the yoke the needle goes left.
And here was the hardest one to get, the angle of the drive line right after the ujoint from the 720 slip yoke. And that was at what looked like 3 or 4 degrees. Down...

When I put the gauge in the middle of the DL it reads 0 so I tried to get every other angle I could.

It was hard.

I figured I could just jack up my truck and make sure it's level in the front and rear. Haha didn't really think of that tell after I got out from under the truck.


Sooo some angle shims in the rear to get my rear diff down right? Or am I even close to what I should be doing?

Don't overthink this. 3 easy places to get measurements are the valve cover (same plane as the crankshaft and main shaft in the transmission), the driveline itself, and the flange at the front of the diff. Doesn't matter if the truck is leveled or not. You DO need to have the rearend supported though. It can't be hanging. All you need to be concerned with are 2 things; The angle difference between the transmission and driveline -- and the angle differnce between the driveline and diff. They need to be equal.

I'm not always great at explaining myself but there's at least a dozen clips on youtube that probably do a better job.

2* shims under the blocks. Good to go.

The drive line is at 0.
The rear flange is at 10.
And the valve cover is at about -6. Could see how I got 8 on the rear yoke. So it would seem I did I fact get the right angles. Yoke was the hardest to read.

So does that mean I need a 16° degree shim?

NO!

Its the difference. 10 degrees minus 6 degrees. So 4 degrees of shim at the axle, or space the tranny mount up any that you can. Maybe A little bit of tranny mount, and a 2 degree shim.

I have some 2* shims here at the house.

Not 6. -6. Isn't backwards on the gauge negative.?

I'm assuming the trans points down and the diff points up? Both slope the same direction?

Yes both point the same way it would seem.

And sorry. 4° yes I forgot =