New World Datsuns...

DLC what is that?

One can almost time a datsun by ear.

510freak wrote:

DLC what is that?

One can almost time a datsun by ear.

Data Link Connector.
That's how you communicate with the car's ECMs.

I know that the Nissan OE scan tool, Consult III+, runs a touch over $20,000.
I can bet that Toyota's is probably close to 30.
Da fuq?

flatcat19 wrote:

510freak wrote:

DLC what is that?

One can almost time a datsun by ear.

Data Link Connector.
That's how you communicate with the car's ECMs.

I know that the Nissan OE scan tool, Consult III+, runs a touch over $20,000.
I can bet that Toyota's is probably close to 30.
Da fuq?

Does the DLC read,all Nissan ECM's?

20 k for it
30 k for the Toyota one

DLC is just the connector.

On OBD-II cars it is all the same regardless of brand.
Pre-OBD-II all the connectors were different between all brands.

The Consult III+ only reads OBD Nissan/Infiniti cars.

GST(generic scan tools) like any of the Snap-On or OTC scanners will do most vehicles, OBD II and most pre-OBD II American stuff.
They give you the main functions, data, and tests but are really limited to what you can do.

Top of the line Snap-On Modis is close to 12 grand.
And that is still with more programs and connectors to buy to work on specialized things.

Thats alot of technology right there

Anyways...

Got a few PMs out for parts.
Just waiting on answers.

PMs for the 2 A10s in Seattle junkyards.
PM to someone else about a whole parts car.
PM to someone else about some 280ZX struts and Z aluminum drums.

Looking at steering wheels. Looking at a radiator now.
Dream wheels located 65 miles down the road.

Going to go pick a body guys ear on Monday.

Nice

Dream wheels, what are they?

510freak wrote:

Nice

Dream wheels, what are they?

Pic a few pages back.
I want to say Appliance 14x7.

But I don't care. I jizzed in my pants when he first sent the picture.
Then he had to sully my thread by posting them here as well.

Ahh yes those, they do look sharp

flatcat19 wrote:Thanks Mike.

Radiator is clean. I did that when I got her home when I first got it.
Shroud yes. I haven't played with the fan clutch yet.
I'll check on the others.

Another problem that I think is part of the problem is the idle.
It idles really high.

I smacked the carb with a rubber mallet yesterday when I replaced the starter and the idle dropped to normal.
Hasn't returned to that normal state since. Something is stuck in there.
When I say high, like 2000rpm. Normal, about 800-1000.

Idling high like that would lead to overheating conditions, right?

And the idle-mixture screw is the slotted screw with a spring, right?

A fast idle shouldn't cause over heating, but if the clutch fan is slipping too much it might. Either way an intermittent fast idle isn't normal.



The idle speed looks similar but is nearest the throttle cable. Idle mix is in the base of the carb slightly to the front.

2K idle could be the fast idle cam stuck/sticking. Carb cleaner or WD-40 around the back of the carb above the throttle linkage. While damp, hold the throttle open and work the choke plate open and closed to work the linkages through their full range of motion. This should loosen any grime and clear them. The fast idle cam is this nylon thing...

Hold choke on and it should fall into place and hold the throttle open for a fast idle warm up. Pull the choke off and it should lift up out of the way allowing the throttle to return to true idle position. It may not be this but it is a likely cause.

Intermittent fast idle could also be a worn throttle shaft that allows the throttle plate to shift sideways in the bore and catch or hang up. No real cure for this but replacement.

One last thing is a sticky throttle cable, or one that is too tight.

Just went out and replaced the thermostat.
It has seen better days, but I don't think it was bad.

Fan clutch spins freeer than izzo's helicopter-dick on $1 margarita night.
Now I know I will be needing a water pump/clutch assy. Argh!

---

So there are multiple ground wires BOLTED in to my main ground wire.
Yes. Bolted. Nut and bolt with washers wrapped in electrical tape.
The ground normally goes from the battery to a the thermostat housing.

I was able to trace 2 big wires into the cab to the kill switch disabling the ground side of the circuit.
That damned kill switch.

There is another wire that is part of the engine bay harness that is also bolted into the ground cable.
Not sure as to what it is. Wasn't able to print off the wiring diagram that Banner posted. My cat knocked the printer off the shelf.

I have a box filled with stereo amplifier wires and connectors. Going to try to find what I can to rebuild a ground cable.

flatcat19 wrote: Fan clutch spins freeer than izzo's helicopter-dick on $1 margarita night.
Now I know I will be needing a water pump/clutch assy. Argh!

Yup, at speed there is enough air forced through the rad but stopped the fan slips too much. The clutch action is caused by a silicon oil between two plates. Spinning one drags the other along by fluid friction. The oil has leaked out.

Hey Kieth. Take the rad out and the fan off. Unbolt the front from the clutch fan. Four little bolts. Carefully split the front off and fill the small cavity inside with axle grease. Put the cover back on... watch out that the large thin Oh ring is sealing and try that. It's a 50 cent fix that works and nothing to loose. Trust me....



Most Nissans have a solid heavy cable from the battery ground to the (on you Z motor) intake near the thermostat housing. From there or anywhere convenient on the block run another 12? gauge wire to the sheet metal body. That should do it. So this P Idiot had a disconnect to the ground cable? Fawk me.

and i bet that disconnect to the ground cable was probably ran by a tiny wire.

No. 4g. To and from.

As soon as it cools down I will give that a shot, Mike.

Im still very excited about this for you.

Jamee wrote:Im still very excited about this for you.

Thank you very much.
I just wish it wasn't so hot outside right now.

So I'm outside just a minute ago, trying to remove the radiator.
Getting close and personal with all these mismatched bolts-
I look to my left and have no clue how the battery is even staying in this car.
Huge amounts of missing metal. FML.

Oh well.
Story of my life.

Operation Fan Clutch: Epic Failure.

Someone else has already been in here it seems.
Every single screw holding it in is stripped!

Good news though-that is a brand new radiator! Yay!


I was going to start sorting out the electrical but a thunder storm rolled in.
I started packing up my tools when I heard the first clap.

I just walked in the door as the rain started falling.
Ugh!

"Brand new" lol, is the battery box rusted? Shit I.missed that. Not that I looked that hard I guess.

RedBanner wrote:"Brand new" lol, is the battery box rusted? Shit I.missed that. Not that I looked that hard I guess.

Seriously-the radiator is maybe a few months old. Nice and shiny with no corrosion.
Someone has been chasing this heating problem for a while it seems.

Battery box/core support is pretty bad on that side.
If Kim's A10 ends up over here I may just start doing some major surgery.

Then what happened?