New World Datsuns...

To tell the truth, it rode nicer without the sway bar connected, but now that it is connected, I will just leave it alone unless I can justify removing it because of an issue that I didn't have before.
I don't even drive this anymore, I have been driving the 1980 Datsun 720 turbodiesel lately, it rides nice and has a radio, and just because it is a turbodiesel.

RedBanner » Tue Apr 05, 2016 2:41 am wrote:on the sway bar, you have to think about the effects on the stock application. it was made to allow one wheel move several inches before it really effected the other wheel. so on your ap, when a wheels moves, it probably doesn't move enough to start really transferring all that much weight... I imagine if you where to use 2 sway bars stacked that you might feel more effects? or get a really serius unit off of something else.

it would transfer vibrations and bumps from wheel to wheel I bet.

Here is the next engine for the 520 ute, another LZ23 if the block/crank/rods are good.

Here is the super head going on it.

going to run su? i wonder how far off the 46mm z car ones would be for a 2.3. i would have to assume they would be close enough to get going.

RedBanner » Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:27 am wrote:going to run su? i wonder how far off the 46mm z car ones would be for a 2.3. i would have to assume they would be close enough to get going.

I bought a good set from Dan Hart just in case this might happen, but I will have to come up with some other master brake cylinder location to run dual SUs, or use the stock master for the 521 with the 521 pedal assembly, I will have to give up my power brakes, or have a remote power brake booster.
My plan was to use that Weber side draft you sold me a while ago, but that would not work either, it was angled to low, it went right into the dual master itself, the down draft Weber barely fit, and I had to use the Ford Courier master brake cylinder because the 620 master cylinder bleeder screws hit the intake manifold, I could have chopped the ends of the bleeder screws off and made it work, but why when I knew the Ford one would work with a remote reservoir.
Every time I make a change to this project, I have to start over with what I have already figured out and got working, but the engine in it was the one I removed from the work truck because it didn't have the power to move the work truck, well it don't run any better in this truck, as a matter of fact, it's even worse with the down draft Weber, so now I am hoping to build something that I know will have power.
I have been unhappy with it the way it is, so this Z22 block came by at the right time.

Well I broke down and finally just got tired of trying to get this Datsun started with the POS Weber it has on it, so I decided I am going to put dual SUs on it very soon, but first I had to get the brake master out of the way.
Here is what it used to look like.

I removed the brake master from where it was at,

I then removed the 520 pedal assembly and put in a 521 pedal assembly, it's hard to see much with all the wiring in the way.



I then made a pedestal for the master, I also had to drill holes for the new clutch location, the new master location is where the clutch master was.


There is lots of room now between the brake master and the intake manifold, I believe the dual SUs will fit it there fine now.


I put a double brace on the end of the booster so that it would not vibrate and cause other issues, some of the photos are a little blurry.



Here is another blurry one.

Now I will think about installing the dual SUs I bought at the swap meet from Dan Hart, he said they were good, the guy wanted to use Z car SUs on his LZ23, my gain as I believe the stock SUs work fine on my LZ23 in my work truck.
I think I might redo the brake/clutch lines one of these days, it looks like some backyard mechanic did them, which is true, but the brakes do work.

Wayne I swear you are a master at adapting and overcoming. Well done

L20 guys say the 38mm run out of breath. I would believe it as I sometimes had issues at high rpms. Then you consider Datsun put 46mm on the L24 stock. That's only .1 liters different.

Probably would be better with different needles.

Here is where I started today, I didn't start it and warm it up before the conversion.

I made all my SU gaskets out of cereal box cardboard.

Manifold and heat shield with isolaters and gaskets on.

Back carb on.

Both carbs on.

It now runs and drives.



Tomorrow I will go to the auto parts stores and see if I can find a set of thin pancake filters, otherwise I am going to have to make one.

Nice!

It has way better throttle response than that Weber, and it started a lot easier.
The fuel mixture was dead on from the last owner of these SUs, I bought them from Dan Hart at the swap meet for $150.00, he removed them from a LZ23 that the owner decided he wanted to use bigger Z car SUs.
I just got tired of trying to start it after it sat for a week, I could turn it over a full minute without it hitting even once.

dang man! Those are super clean and look really nice. Cool upgrade!

izzo wrote:dang man! Those are super clean and look really nice. Cool upgrade!

Anything clean will look good under any of my hoods, given a little time and they will be as dirty as the rest of the engine compartment.

I put the air filters that I received in the mail today on the dual SUs, they don't exactly do everything I was hoping, but they will work for now.

Clearance is good.



I was unable to connect the valve cover vent to either of them this evening, even though it has the hole, the filter itself is in the way on the inside, so I piped it to the fender well for now.

I will make a spacer for the space between the carbs and the filter back plate tomorrow as it needs one, then I will try to figure out the vent.

OK, so I piped the valve cover vent to the rear air filter housing.
Here is the hose.

Back side

From above, it's not the greatest, but I did the best I could with what I have right now.

I also piped the bowl vents together and then piped it all the way over to the fender well to get it away from the exhaust manifold.

I just want it to be derivable right now, going for function, not looks.

Looks good Wayno.

While I was driving down the freeway yesterday some guy got up next to me and started yelling at me thru his passenger window, I finally figured out that he wanted to trade his BMW for my 520, I shook my head no and took the next exit.
That is the first time someone yelled at me like that, usually people see it in a parking lot or when they are visiting my neighbors and then knock on my door and ask if I want to sell it, kids seem to like it a lot, even though the shiny red 521 kingcab is right next to it, they don't even seem to see that one and that one looks great compared to the 520 ute with its rattle can paint job.

Haha. But it's super cool, man

Wayno with all the custom work you have done to this 1966 NL520 (never produced by Datsun) it would be the talk of any Datsun car/truck show!

That sir screams Wayno Built!

I wish it was nicer Charlie, I am terrible at body work(bondo work), I have a hard time getting it on there, and then I seem to sand it all off without any forward progress, it just isn't smooth.
I did the top, but it doesn't look anything like the 521 kingcab top, the guy that did that did a good job, too bad he wasn't reliable, and he was using customers cars to pick up/deliver parts.
The guy that did the NL320 isn't reliable either, another car he is working on hasn't been finished in 5 years.
If it rains Saturday I will likely drive the NL520 as you have named it to Canby, as the wiper system works good on it, while the NL320 has never even had wipers on it since I have owned it, although the pivots do turn back and forth when I turn the wipers on.