New World Datsuns...

Mine starts great without choke. Half turn rich for winter.

you can safely delete the vacuum canister. I got a set of these running great on converted to datsuns truck.

Laecaon wrote:Mine starts great without choke. Half turn rich for winter.

you can safely delete the vacuum canister. I got a set of these running great on converted to datsuns truck.

thanks.
That really assured me.
Once I get the carbs, I'll remove the vacuum.
I'm sure it's just a couple bolt.s

Put my matchbox dizzy and my carbs come tomorrow.
Bought some hs2 air filters that are pretty awesome!

I'll eventually have the car ready for me when I get my license by sunday.

I still need to get the drivers side door panel on but it'll be there soon enough.
I also put a hole through the doors for speaker wires that are nicer.

I'm getting coilovers in two weeks as well for the rear finally so that's a plus too.

is it a problem that I didnt take off my ballast resister?
i kept it on with my matchbox.

Yes, you don't need it.

use the ei coil.

connect the black/blue and black/white wires together at the +side of coil.

gap your spark plugs to .041"

Laecaon wrote:Yes, you don't need it.

use the ei coil.

connect the black/blue and black/white wires together at the +side of coil.

gap your spark plugs to .041"

I'll do that thursday.
I'm not sure how to gap a spark plug.
I know it opens and closes and i need the tool but how to tell if it's .041

Feeler gauges are best.

Laecaon wrote:Feeler gauges are best.

what does gaping exactly do?

Well stock gap with the points is like .035, the matchbox can do like .044 though I have seen a EW cars run better at .041 or .042.

a larger gap produces a bigger spark, which means a better burn. But make sure to lose the coil, that is hurting your spark.

I have a msd blaster 2 coil and I can do a full .044

Laecaon wrote:Well stock gap with the points is like .035, the matchbox can do like .044 though I have seen a EW cars run better at .041 or .042.

a larger gap produces a bigger spark, which means a better burn. But make sure to lose the coil, that is hurting your spark.

I have a msd blaster 2 coil and I can do a full .044

I don't know what coil I have but I'll be sure to ask izzo, it came with no label or anything of the sort.


I'll set at .042 once I get the tool and see how that works out thursday.
I'll also put both wires from the resister onto the positive of the coil.

I get my dual carbs then too

that coil is off an 80 720 that has a matchbox. i have the truck sitting outside actually

The black and blue, black and white wire (iirc) goto the coil positive. then two wires from the matchbox to the coil one on each side. should be good to go.

The matchbox dizzy is wired a certain way, otherwise it will not work.

Wire it like the photo above, positive side goes to "B" post, negitive side goes to "C" post, don't get them backwards.

wayno wrote:The matchbox dizzy is wired a certain way, otherwise it will not work.

Wire it like the photo above, positive side goes to "B" post, negitive side goes to "C" post, don't get them backwards.

I understand that, I already got the car running.

izzo wrote:that coil is off an 80 720 that has a matchbox. i have the truck sitting outside actually

The black and blue, black and white wire (iirc) goto the coil positive. then two wires from the matchbox to the coil one on each side. should be good to go.

I just have to put the black and blue and black and white onto the coil.

So i got the filters and the carbs.
Problem,
When i put these filters on, the holes dont align but I can just drill new holes for that because they're off by a couple mm.

but more importantly.... the filter hits this thing and won't fit....






any ideas?

Those are on backwards. That spout needs to point towards the manifold.

Laecaon wrote:Those are on backwards. That spout needs to point towards the manifold.

gotcha, just screwed it on correctly.

Just a quick question, on the thing where the spout is located, there's another thing popping out?
is that return fuel line or what?

Vent line. I don't recall exactly the proper setup. But leave it open to atmosphere. You may need some tubing though. When I had my float sink fuel was pouring out of it.

Laecaon wrote:Vent line. I don't recall exactly the proper setup. But leave it open to atmosphere. You may need some tubing though. When I had my float sink fuel was pouring out of it.

So i just leave it to drop gas?
Isn't that a waset?

So i got the carbs on and well but there's a piece in which i have no idea what to call it.

The metal piece that attaches to the metal piece on the carbs that twists causing everything to twist.
That metal piece is too long so I'm looking for a smaller one at autozone tomorrow.
I get my license tomorrow hopefully as well.

Then I can drive this damn pos.
Here's a pic and there are wires everywhere i have to clean.

I got an air filter for the valve cover and for the return fuel lines, I'm debating whether to keep them as they are or get some fuel lines and put em near the fire wall leaving gas to fall to the floor.
it looks awesome!

I need a good camera because my phone makes my engine bay look so shitty...

datmo wrote:So i got the carbs on and well but there's a piece in which i have no idea what to call it.

The metal piece that attaches to the metal piece on the carbs that twists causing everything to twist.
That metal piece is too long so I'm looking for a smaller one at autozone tomorrow.
I get my license tomorrow hopefully as well.

Then I can drive this damn pos.
Here's a pic and there are wires everywhere i have to clean.

I got an air filter for the valve cover and for the return fuel lines, I'm debating whether to keep them as they are or get some fuel lines and put em near the fire wall leaving gas to fall to the floor.
it looks awesome!

I need a good camera because my phone makes my engine bay look so shitty...

Are you talking about the throttle linkage that goes from the linkage on the firewall to the throttle linkage on the intake manifold?