New World Datsuns...

These look to have the same mounting patterns.
This is the L320 below.

This is the V320 below.

While this is what I got for a wiper motor below.

wayno wrote:Here is the 720 wiper motor mounted.

So at this point You have a working 720 motor in the truck that you already drilled a hole to make work. Use it to get you registered and legal while you search for the CORRECT motor.

wayno wrote:

So I think you need to be searching for one of these......

In the meantime. I would take this piece of crap and throw it as far as I could and then stop talking about it. It is obviously WRONG to the truck.

Yes, just take that unknown motor and throw it away, and stop talking about it.

All I ever said was the V320 one looked like the proper one for the truck. I was implying that you find one of those. I never said anything about trying to make the one you have work.

This is what it looks like now, and I will likely leave it till something better comes along.

Looks more stock than the other one minus the extra holes.

If it works, it works.

It's been almost a month since this was bamped.

izzo wrote:It's been almost a month since this was bamped.

Yea, all the stuff is out being worked on, like the interior and the chrome, it starts just fine as I start it every week, I am busy working like crazy and buying shit I should not buy and making more work for myself, this will be at Canby.
I have not heard from the platers, but I have heard from Todd(RATDAT3), he says the interior will be ready.
I still need to get the tires, then make an appointment for the exhaust.
I am not sure what to do about the interior heat, as the 320s that came with a heater are not the same as this early 62 320, the heater core outlets are in funny places on this vehicle, I did figure out that the Datsun 222 truck heater boxes are not compatible, as they are in the engine compartment, while the 320 has the heater box in the cab.
I also need to put drop blocks in the back, but I don't know how much yet, as the vehicle has no tires and is still on the hoists where it has been since I put it up on them.

Well thats a good update.

I've found pre-formed bends in hoses do a wonderful job making it easier to hook up heater boxes. like the 720 heater box. funny angles Pre-formed hoses with bends in it, then curved metal pipe, etc... IDK... good luck dude lol

Here is the issue on my 1962 U320, in the photo below you can see the heater core hose holes are diagonally away from each other, a foot apart, one high, one low.

On my 1964 they are close to each other and one is over the other.

I don't really want to make a new hole in the firewall, so at the moment I will wait till I know more.

C'mon Wayno, be realistic. What do you really need a heater for in that truck. Its not like you are going to drive it in the winter.

yello620 wrote:C'mon Wayno, be realistic. What do you really need a heater for in that truck. Its not like you are going to drive it in the winter.

I thought about what you are saying, I actually agree with your train of thought here, at least until recently.
You see I piped the NL320 and got the heater going in it, and I like the heat, it feels good, plus it defrosts the windshield.
I am going to start looking around to see if I can find a 1962 320 with a heater and see what they have, I am starting to think that this was a very early 62, and not everything had been worked out yet.
I don't need a heater to get to Canby, but it came with a heater box from a 320, so i was thinking about installing it till I seen the different heater core outlet locations.
Originally I thought it might use 60/61 heater boxes, till I seen the engine compartment of one.

I pulled the drivers door today, it was screwed up, looked like someone had just added a piece of sheet metal to the side, it did not match the body lines at all, so I put Melvin's door on the vehicle, it has issues also, but it is better than what was on it.
Here is the old door.

Here is the new old door off Melvin.


It does not fit that great, but I will have to mess around with all that stuff later this year.
That is the best I can do for photos at the moment, it's kinda tight out there where I am working on it, but at least I have a dry place to work on it, so all is good.
BTW, the window rolls up and down way better on this door, WAY BETTER!!!

even if it doesn't fit good it sure looks a lot better than the old door haha

izzo wrote:even if it doesn't fit good it sure looks a lot better than the old door haha

Anything with color looks better than that primer.
I had a lot of trouble getting the top front out far enough to align with the front fender, it was a quarter inch to far in compared to what the left door looked like, I took the hinges off and loosened everything up for maximum adjustment, the real issue was the top front was to far in, while the bottom rear lower was sticking way to far out.
Also the door almost seemed to long, it's an old truck with a lot of time and abuse behind it.
It has a lot of body damage that has been covered up with bondo and patches like that door, it's a diamond in the rough, so rough it's hard to tell it's a diamond.

Gotcha. You think maybe bolting a bracket to the pillar and pulling it out a little might fix it?

izzo wrote:Gotcha. You think maybe bolting a bracket to the pillar and pulling it out a little might fix it?

I actually have an extra set of hinges, so I made the holes in the top hinge that bolts to the pillar bigger and got it out an eighth inch more, it looks a little better now, I might see if I can now get the rear of the front fender in tighter.
I will have to look closer later and determine if it was hit hard enough to push the pillar in, as the door had a major half ass repair made to it, and if the top part of the pillar(near the windshield) was pushed in a little, that would make sense to me, as the top front of the door is looking pushed in, while the lower back is sticking out, the other door is sitting in it's opening way differently.
I put the blocks in the rear yesterday, it now sits level, I pulled the frontend apart a little and trimmed the side of the bump stops a 1/4 inch, now the shocks clear the side of the bump stop mounts about an eighth inch.
I still need rear shocks, I am going to the auto parts store in a while to see what they can get/order in.
I keep starting it every few days, was still having issues starting it till I replaced the cap and wires, it was weird that the dust cap for the coil wire at the coil kept slipping off and sliding down the coil wire till it hit the steering column shaft, when it touched the shaft it would arc to that metal instead of the power making it to the cap itself, all that pain because of a dust cap, somehow that dust cap conducted electricity like it was metal.

LOL. Thats crazy man. Glad it's coming along tho. Can you bring in a shock with you to match something up?

Fuck, the pillar has been pushed in, when that door was hit, it must have moved in 2 inches at least.
This is what the side of the dash is supposed to look like(left side),

This is what the right side looks like.

Also the left side has this smooth arc going from the top of the door to the bottom, see how from the top of the dash down has a slight bow outward.


See how the drivers side doesn't have that bow outward, it's actually pushed inward at the top hinge.

Just another thing that is going to need fixing, I am going to have to figure out how to push that back out without hurting anything else trying to do just that.

Oh man. If you could bolt a braket to the top hinge location and pull, and at the same time jack the insaide out, ive had to do this to my 710 left a pillar, used a highboy lift and a board to ad pressure from the inside. While pulling from the outside.