New World Datsuns...

yeah when you said it was to far in that was my first thought, is that it was pushed in... Bolt a bracket to the spot where the door goes and come-along it out. maybe a bottle jack and 2x4 on the inside same time.

If the dash comes out like later cars do, I'd do the same. Only thing I'd be nervous about is cracking the windshield.

The good thing about this is that I have a couple new windshields around here right now, I also have a few new seals/gaskets, I will remove the windshield before trying to adjust anything like this, and yes the dash will come out, but I am going to let this go till after Canby.
I will have to fab up some stuff, as I don't want it twisting when I force it back out, I also will be removing the fender, fact is I need this pillar to move forward a little bit also, as the door is almost to big for the hole it is in(no gap at the rear) and it sags towards the rear.
I kinda knew what I was getting into, so I will not whine about it to much , I am just happy I was able to get the Melvin door to fit right now, as that other door was ugly.

Well wayno... I'm glad you have it.

Seeing what you did making those king cabs... You will get it taken care of.

Thankyou Tim

I forgot to mention that I have new shoes/tires all around, i used 620 disc brake rims right now, and when I get around to it, I might look into getting radials that have a bias ply look to them for the stock rims, then these tires can be moved to my 521 kingcab or the 520KC ute, I bought a slightly lower profile tire that sort of matched the tire height of the bias ply, but it is way wider, but in my opinion I need spacers to get the tires farther out, it kinda looks goofy with the tires so deep into the fender wells.

Yeah. It makes a huge difference. It's a game changer... just with wheels and spacing. I couldn't believe the difference on my b210 and 720 with wheels that stuck out a bit further...

I need to get something else for the 720. Something that makes them stick out a little further. Looks goofy with the stockers

Not sure if you need any parts or... parts cars.. but http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ptd/4451628689.html

draker wrote:Not sure if you need any parts or... parts cars.. but http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/ptd/4451628689.html

I already seen this, if I had seen it yesterday, I likely would have been up there this morning when they opened, but Skip(roadsterman on Ratsun) was there pulling parts when Steve left, I was told that Skip had paid for the taillights over the phone, I would have liked the trim, but that is life.

Fair enough. Sad to see a car like that in the yard.

draker wrote:Fair enough. Sad to see a car like that in the yard.

Very true, but if some of them didn't become parts cars, we would not have any parts at all.
I would have taken the trim and rear bumper for sure, I am supposed to have trim coming(being repaired and a set I think I have bought), but neither of them sets are here yet, and Canby is getting closer every day.

Yes, I hear that.. sigh.. excited.. yet pressured.

draker wrote:Yes, I hear that.. sigh.. excited.. yet pressured.

If it looked the same on the other side it was savable, but I know someone that needs the tailgate in the drops group, maybe it will find it's way to them.
I wish someone would have bought it complete.

So I put the front shocks on this rig a couple weeks ago because I had a set lying around, well I ordered a set of rear shocks last weekend, and they arrived Monday, but I was unable to get them till yesterday, I just finished putting them on, they are a stud/stud type, and I understand why they changed the upper mount to an eye from the 520 on, as in the photo below you can see there is hardly enough room to get the nuts on the end of the upper stud when the shock is in position.

They are on the truck now, all is good.

As you can see in the photo above, everything has a coat of surface rust underneath the vehicle, absolutely everything has it on it, after Canby I am going to pull the cab off the frame and likely have it powder coated, or at the very least sand blast it and paint it with some good quality paint, something has to be done.

looks good man. How much would it cost to powder coat a frame?

A good quality epoxy primer at the last tho eh.

izzo wrote:looks good man. How much would it cost to powder coat a frame?

A good quality epoxy primer at the last tho eh.

I have heard about other peoples costs, but they are not coming to mind right now, it wasn't that bad though.
I think the sand blasting was not part of the cost though, I am going to have to start getting thrifty with this build, do some trading, or do it myself, I am going to have a fortune in this rig, and the body work/paint will still need to be done.

I did this the other day, now the brake lights work.

Just waiting on parts like the interior and chrome now, so I can put it back together for Canby.

Well I drove the U320 today, now I don't trust this vehicle to get me to Canby, it broke down after the distance of just 3 blocks, it's the carb again, it's either the dist. or the carb.
I made a tow bar mount for it, so now I will put a tow hitch on the 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab diesel, and they will both be there at the same time.
I will tow it over and then remove the tow assembly and put the bumper on for the show, maybe.

You should win the early award

Sucks about the carb and dizzy issues.... From what i remember you don't have a resistor on there and I am pretty sure it needs one, even if you install a petronix or whatever... or a gm HEI module...

Pertronix is not High Energy like matchbox units are. I never understood why everyone likes the pertronix kits... Yes you still need a ballast resistor with one, or I think the GM HEI module would work as well instead of a Ballast resistor. I would lean to the GM module as I think you could get a more powerful spark, or be able to run a larger gap on the plug.

izzo wrote:You should win the early award

Sucks about the carb and dizzy issues.... From what i remember you don't have a resistor on there and I am pretty sure it needs one, even if you install a petronix or whatever... or a gm HEI module...

You are talking about the thing on top of my coil in the work truck in the photo below, correct?

Maybe this is why the coil is always hot, there was not one of these in the parts boxes I got with the vehicle, and the 320 wiring diagram does not show one either, so I just went without one.