New World Datsuns...

I dont watch videos. They are painful, shitty audio, and poor video quality. Especially if uploaded to PHOTObucket (which you did not do).

But yea, I dont watch videos online if it makes me want to kill my ear drums, which is 95% of the user videos I have seen posted here or ratsun.

Watched the video. All diffs have play there, else they would bind. That may be a bit excessive though, like the carrier isnt shimmed correctly. Pick up 1 rear wheel, spin the D/S feel for any oddness.

No carrier on these.

I meant diff... Slides the diff side to side to better engage the pinion. But all your video showed was that there was a gap between the gears of the pinion and the gear ring.

i don't get what you're getting at.

I'm showing you what is loose and clanking? there is no side to side play that I can see. Even when giving it some good force.... I'm trying to figure out why there is so much play spinning like that. I understand some give, but it seems to be a bit exessive --- and why i was looking for a new axle? IDK... is this not the problem? None of my other rigs had play like that, super tiny bit maybe but they didn't clank... There might be some side to side play that I just can't do by hand...... when I'm driving down the road, and I am coasting in N and hit some bumps... I can hear it flopping around.

I would remove the driveline before I bought a thing, it looks tight, but that doesn't mean it is, it doesn't cost anything to remove it to check.
I did not know that you had a C200 rearend, the photo I posted previously and below is of a C200, and that rearend had a hell of a clang, it was loud, but mine had more play also.

I repaired mine, but first you need to pull the back plate off to see what the issue is, as your rearend does have some play, even if one of your U-joints is bad, the rearend does have play.
I could not find a rear gasket for that rearend, so I made one out of the box/container that an H190 gasket came in, if you have a large cereal box, you could use that, any thick paper box will work, that thick paper from a large wall calender will work, just look around, you have something that will work with some tacky gasket glue.

for sure. you can see the entire driveline spinning from front to rear, and the rear end has some slop.. what will removing the driveline accomplish? (do you mean remove it and test the U-joints for slop?) I have cereal boxes up to wazoo and soda boxes... I could make one. I also have something called The Right Stuff... You apply it and install right away and it seals instantly. supposed to be 100% leak free on anything oil, water etc except gas.

Bummer about the rear gasket. I'll see if D-Mike can get a part number. they surely have to make that still...

I'm talking about the internals of diff housing. Whre the pinion and ring gear meet. The diff itself can be set side to side to loosen or tighten that slack. The slack there being the pinion to ring gear. That is how diffs work... Some times the pinion can be moved in and out for better meshing of the gear as well. I just am not convinced what you showed in the video is what you are noticing while driving...

Laecaon » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:53 pm wrote:I'm talking about the internals of diff housing. Whre the pinion and ring gear meet. The diff itself can be set side to side to loosen or tighten that slack. The slack there being the pinion to ring gear. That is how diffs work... Some times the pinion can be moved in and out for better meshing of the gear as well. I just am not convinced what you showed in the video is what you are noticing while driving...

Thanks now i knows what you is talking about. I think i had mentioned earlier that I didn't want to pull the gears out because I knew something had to be set right inside of there. That may have been what i was talking about? (Not being a smart ass here, i really don't know much about the rear diff and just heard that something had to be set right.)

Sigh. nothing else is loose. wish i had a go pro.. Mount it under and go for a ride and see if that's whats going on or whatever...

IDK if i will have u joint monies tomorrow or not yet. Shall see.

I changed out the carrier housing/case without measuring anything, my carrier housing/case was bad, so I bought another one at the wrecking yard, just the carrier housing/case, not the ring gear, I removed all that, I just needed the good carrier housing with the spyders inside and I kept all the ring gear bolts also.
I then removed my carrier, removed the ring gear and installed it on the new carrier housing/case, then I put it back together the same way as I removed the old one, and it now works great, it's back under the work truck, the only issue I had was that the first gasket I made for the rear inspection plate, I did not use a good gasket glue, I put it on dry, and it leaked, I mean it leaked so fast that all the fluid leaked out in a couple weeks, I thought the rearend was fucked up, but I filled it at the NAPA parking lot, it quieted down right away, I got home and made another gasket, I used high tack glue this time, and I have not had an issue since.

It all depends on what your issue is, maybe your ring and pinion are shot, and that would mean it would be cheaper to find a complete C200 rearend and install it in your truck, as for some reason all the rearend guys charge a small fortune to set up a rearend.

BTW, don't buy U-joints till you know yours are bad, you don't have to take a U-joint apart to check it, you just need to remove the driveline from the truck, a U-joint can be bad with a sixteenth inch of play, and you cannot feel that nor see it when the driveline is in the truck, the truck will still move/drive around without the rear driveline, just put it in 4wd high, you will then have a FWD truck.

Setting a diff is not hard. But its not fun. It takes time, and depending on the design, some are quicker than others. (Like the Titan I posted, that thing was cake!, but the Chevy I did was kindof annoying (read, reinstall diff like 5 times before its right)).

Wayno, a carrier is what H190s have, the diff is attached to the carrier and comes out of the axle housing as one unit. What you described was actually just the differential itself. The differential is what houses the spider gears.

Just drop the drive shaft already and check it.

Laecaon » Fri Aug 01, 2014 3:27 am wrote:Setting a diff is not hard. But its not fun. It takes time, and depending on the design, some are quicker than others. (Like the Titan I posted, that thing was cake!, but the Chevy I did was kindof annoying (read, reinstall diff like 5 times before its right)).

Wayno, a carrier is what H190s have, the diff is attached to the carrier and comes out of the axle housing as one unit. What you described was actually just the differential itself. The differential is what houses the spider gears.

Just drop the drive shaft already and check it.

Yessir

U joints have no play. they move smooth and freely. One moves a little more easily than I would like it. But they seem to be in good shape.


Back to the original post. I need an axle

Shiggity giggity bump! Still need a rear end.

Self bump again.

JY.

Laecaon » Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:44 pm wrote:JY.

Yeah, JY. Which is 2 hours away from me and no promise it will be what I need