New World Datsuns...

I actually forgot to mention that I bought a rebuild kit for the Weber DGAV 36/32, them kits don't come with much, half the parts I could not even find on my carb, but the thing ran like crap, so I replaced the stuff I could find in it with the new stuff, cleaned and blew everything out with air, and put it back together, it runs a lot better now, and will actually idle smoothly now, I bet if I had just cleaned it out, it would have had the same result, I could not believe that the kit did not come with a pre-filter screen, Geez, now I am going to have to buy one of them, as mine is in crap shape.
I guess I am used to dual SUs, these webers just don't have good reaction times when one floors it, they just slowly speed/rev up, I am used to fast revs/reactions to pedal changes.

I am waiting till tomorrow to see if it starts any easier, it has always started very hard, I have to pump the pedal 20 times before it will even try to hit, let alone try to start.

Thats an accel pump then, cause each pump should be a squirt of fuel. Also if you have no phenolic spacer it may be boiling the fuel out of the bowl.

RedBanner wrote:Thats an accel pump then, cause each pump should be a squirt of fuel. Also if you have no phenolic spacer it may be boiling the fuel out of the bowl.

I have whatever it has had all along, I did replace that pump diaphragm which I think is the accelerator pump, at least I hope it is, because I would like it to start easier after sitting a week.
It has this thick plate below the carburetor that makes the one hole bigger/farther apart, it idles smoothly now, it would always die, or try to when I had to stop at a signal, I believe that issue is fixed.
I removed the idle mixture screw before pulling the carb and started the engine, it made no difference with it in or out of the carb.

It just started the easiest it has ever started since putting that weber on it, I pumped it a couple time and it started right up, something finally worked out on a down draft carb for me.
Time to get ready for the Vancouver meet at Boppin Bo's.

I cannot believe this crap, I upload my photos to picasa, and the damned site won't let me copy and paste the photo to my post.
I am starting to get sick of this shit, I don't know how to fix it.

Really digging that KC man.. I say that every time I look at it, though.

This is where I want it to be, raked just a little.

I had to use IE to get these photos to post, I think the problem is this new windows 8 operating system, it totally blows, windows 8 is lame, there are a lot of lame things out there that computer suppliers call progress, it's a giant leap backwards IMO.

love this truck Wayno!

This is my plan, to use the rear roadster leaf mount, it will lower the rear over 2 inches without any issues other than maybe the getting the frame to close to the ground issue.





This is meant to be bolted on, I am not sure what I am going to do yet, I will talk to the welder guy across the street and see if this is spring steel, and not meant to be welded, or if I can just weld it on(preferred).

"Frame closer to the ground" non issue lol

RedBanner wrote:"Frame closer to the ground" non issue lol

I have some room down there, it's still raked a little more than I like, and this could be the answer, if the frame gets to close, then I can take that other 2 inch block out.
The fact is that it will never look really low because I will not do a body drop on this project, it would be like starting over again, and that is not going to happen on this one, just to much work, I am going to drive it and then get it painted eventually.
It has no interior, and it rattles/vibrates a lot, soon I will start sound deadening after I finish the welding inside the cab.

OK guys, I have an issue with my 1980 720 wiring harness, under the hood, there are 3 wires in the harness, the yellow/black wire goes to the water temp sender, then there is a solid blue one that I believe goes to the electric choke mechanism, which has a full 12 volts, and then there is a brown one that seems to have about 3 volts, when I connect the blue wire to the choke, something behind the dash starts buzzing, when I shut the engine off, it goes away, when I turn the ign. on there is no buzzing, but the second i start the engine, the buzzing starts again, anyone have any ideas?
The truck starts fine with or without the wire connected to the choke, and once warm it goes to normal idle speed.

Where is the brown wire supposed to go?

The truck has a matchbox dist. stock, and the ground is connected to the dist.

Maybe the anti runon.... 3 volts seems low tho. Is the choke relay the thing buzzing?

Yellow/Black = Water temp

Blue = Washer fluid motor most likely...

Brown = Myriad of stuff, probably all to stuff you dont have. (Fuel cut sol. Vac cut sol. Vac sw. Air control sw.)

Laecaon wrote:Yellow/Black = Water temp

Blue = Washer fluid motor most likely...

Brown = Myriad of stuff, probably all to stuff you dont have. (Fuel cut sol. Vac cut sol. Vac sw. Air control sw.)

Thankyou, this actually makes sense if the brown wire is the one that goes to the washer activator lever on the column.

I don't think it does...

do you have a wiring diagram for the 1980 720?

Laecaon wrote:I don't think it does...

do you have a wiring diagram for the 1980 720?

No, I have one for a 1982 diesel 720 which is different.

Jamee wrote:

X2

That is a cool pic of the truck wayno