New World Datsuns...

Im bouncing for a bit. not sure when Ill be back, but for reading resistance, start at the 20 or 200 setting (mine has a 20, and a 2...) If you see numbers great! thats what you want. If you just see the number "1" that means the resistance is higher than the scale, move to the next high position 200>2k, and that may give a number readout. When I tested my bad fuse, it was in the 2m range.

Conversely, if you have the MM at say 200k, and you see just 0, then the resistance is lower than the range can read, and you should drop to a lower setting (200k>20k)



Im also going to say, I think somethings wrong with your car, in the whole fusebox/wireharness/headlight switch setup. Somethings not original to the car.

Like my 12/70 car does NOT have power to the lights when the switch is off.

different fuse box, different fuses. same problems.

izzo wrote:Switched fuse boxes, new fuses.

Ill switch back to the old fuse box real quick and see if that changes anything. I was having this problem before changing the fuse box, though. Had same issue on my orange 510 to, only the high beam worked on that one.

This car, the driver high beam doesn't work at all. But when the car is on low beams... the brights have a very slight glow to them.

the spare that is out, drop it into a small container with vinegar(soak for a day)


You can also try and cleaning the fuse clips,with some sand paper(rolled up like a..)
And test each fuse , New fuses have been known to be bad off the shelf
Use you Multi meter, set to ohms,and reading and it good, no reading its no good

izzo wrote:different fuse box, different fuses. same problems.

What I am saying, maybe your engine harness isnt orignal to the car. Or the fuse box you have (and you replaced with same type)

The 510s changed their wiring after 69. You described something which I believed to be a 68/69 only thing (power at headlights when switch is off)

I have 4 packs of 20 amp fuses and a pack of 10 amp fuses

I was determined to find the short when my running lights died a few weeks back.

Tried the other fuse box, and had the same issue. I got my good fuse box back out (good as in wires perfect, no melted plastic etc). The one I started with today. I cleaned all the right side of the fuse tabs, even though they were clean. Then put new fuses in. Two looked bad, one being the one I was having issues (bad as in not burned out, but it wasn't looking right..)
Then I cleaned all the tabs for the light connector that goes into the fuse box (light & horn connector)

Plugged it all back in, and my low beams worked fine. no high beams... Flicked the switch a few times, nothing.. Gf's tit hit the horn and everything popped back on

Tested it a few times, everything works like it should. Both sides the same bright on low/high beam.

Will run it and check it daily to see if the problem comes back. as for now, problem solved. Now just to fix the oil pan gasket and she's 100% done, cept for lowering.

Also, I know I have issues with the turn signal stock. Before my brights didn't work unless i tapped the turn signal stock. maybe that's part of the problem, but I don't see why one side would work and the other not..

I would still drop one of the fuse boxes(as long as they are the same,If memory serves,there are 3 different fuse boxes 70-73 yrs) into a container of vinegar let it soak for a day,rinse it off with water,place it in the sun so that the contacts can dry.

As for the turn signal switch, tried some sort of electrical contact cleaner on it? Does wonders

One fuse box is heavily melted. The original one to the car. The one I got is a replacement.

I know of 2 different types of fuse boxes, the wiring was slightly different. Tho I have two styles of the same wiring. One where the plugs are set in the fuse box, one with the wires that come out. Ill snap a picture and show you the difference....

It's all working again now. Hard to test / know what it is until it screws up again. I did try cleaning the bright / dimmer contact in the stock with some sand paper. its shiny now. (i use 1000 grit._)

izzo wrote:One fuse box is heavily melted. The original one to the car. The one I got is a replacement.

I know of 2 different types of fuse boxes, the wiring was slightly different. Tho I have two styles of the same wiring. One where the plugs are set in the fuse box, one with the wires that come out. Ill snap a picture and show you the difference....

It's all working again now. Hard to test / know what it is until it screws up again. I did try cleaning the bright / dimmer contact in the stock with some sand paper. its shiny now. (i use 1000 grit._)

Will wait for pics


In the clicker part is where troubles start(semi enclosed) a contact spray can get in there and clean out any residual build up on contacts.
My favorite is de-oxit(works great for any switches or dials etc) A bit pricey up here. but worth it(imo)

Here is the one I just put on the car

The other one is the normal one I've mostly seen, with the white connectors in the actual fuse box (they do slide out, though)

I should also mention, the way the tabs are stuck in the fuse box is different, also. The normal ones, tehre is little tabs that bend out on the brass fuse tabs.. that keep them in place. This one, there is extra plastic on the bottom

That one looks like a late 69 or early 70 fuse box.
The mid 70(71) had no pig tails(only term that came to mind)


gotta run back later

So, is it fixed?

Faulty headlight switch?

Yeah, everythings working as it should. Only thing not, is the oil pan gasket

izzo wrote:Yeah, everythings working as it should. Only thing not, is the oil pan gasket

Right on.