New World Datsuns...

So I have my quote back. Have to measure the bores today to make sure I can run standard pistons in the new bottom end. About 500 for all the work. New pistons and rings, 3 inserts in the crank flywheel holes from the previous dumbass who managed to put them in and gall them, and rods and mains, re-circle the rods and polish the crank, turn the flywheel, etc.

Still have to get ARP rod bolts. Fortunately I already have a set of ARP head studs I got for the turbo L28 in the z car motor, but didn't end up tearing it apart as it looked like the head gasket had already been done once on it. So robbing Ugly Betty's head and putting it on the fresh 260 bottom end should be a nice little high-compression motor. Ugly Betty has definitely already been shaved on the head. 195 in the holes vs. 150 for the stock block in the wagon.

I'd really like to find an LSD for the wagon H190. Only problem is super expensive and/or only the 2 block cheap 2 way you find on ebay. From what I've heard they work, but probably need a bit of work to fit nicely in the diff. Plus a proper clutch type would be more ideal. However, I'm also unsure what the spline count is on the wagon H190. I think it's higher since they put it behind the 6 cylinder, but have to go dig in the manual. Probably getting a H233B out of a pathfinder would be better, but it's much bigger and then I have 6 bolt wheels in back unless I do some tricky axle shaft work. So, I'll probably either weld it or leave it. I don't drive it in winter, so welding wouldn't be such a problem, but I worry about the robustness of that axle in general. I don't know, have to figure it later I guess.

I wonder if maybe a Fox body Mustang 8.8 might be an option. Lots of aftermarket support and the correct bolt pattern. What's the overall width of the H190?

Yeah, I looked at that, it would be super nice. However, the 190 is only a 7.48" diff. Probably have to go with a smaller Ford unit. I think they ran a 7.5" something in the old 4 cylinder fox bodies maybe. I have seen a Mazda RX7 clutch type that was modified to fit an H190, but it was pricey and finding those units are as hard as making something else work.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-D ... fgodCoIBcg

Says it's 28 spline. Just went through the FSM for the Maxima, can't find any spec for number of spline axles. Found every other spec. Suppose I'll just have to count myself or find someone else who already has. It would be incredibly awesome if that diff could fit without crazy modification.

Nope. Can't do it. Mod an old roadster LSD, weld it, or axle swap. I'm planning a Volvo axle in my car. Dana 30 diff. Eaton makes a helical LSD for less than $500 for it. With LSD and modding the axle I will probably still be under the cost of a roadster LSD unit.

I would guess you're right since no one has done it before, but do you know why it wouldn't work? Wrong splines, too wide?

I just checked the bore on Wynona and from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2, both measurements were 3.268 and 3.270 for long and lat measurements in the cylinder. Which means a bottle brush and then standard pistons and we'll be fine! No block boring, sweet. Also means I can do an in-frame rebuild of the bottom end.

Just checked the FSM for factory specs. Standard bore is 3.2677-3.2697! Woo hoo!

Now for icing on the cake. I want to make rear windows that open on the wagon. I need to get a window and frame cut out of the wagon in pull and save so I can disassemble it and see if it's easily possible to add a hinge like the hardbody rear windows and have sealing, functional rear side windows. That would be the cat's meow.

Mostly they are hard to find. Fetch nearly a grand just for an unknown condition one. Known good quality will get closer to $1400. Just do an axle swap for that much.

And those eBay ones are trash. They work for a day, then just proceed to destroy your diff.

Grab an axle, shorten the housing yourself or with a friend who can weld. Attach the perches and whatnots. Send the axle shafts to Dutchman. And well everything else.

Betty wants to donate her alternator to gato plano.

Laecaon wrote:Mostly they are hard to find. Fetch nearly a grand just for an unknown condition one. Known good quality will get closer to $1400. Just do an axle swap for that much.

And those eBay ones are trash. They work for a day, then just proceed to destroy your diff.

Grab an axle, shorten the housing yourself or with a friend who can weld. Attach the perches and whatnots. Send the axle shafts to Dutchman. And well everything else.

Are you talking about the Ford 7.5"? The link is for Auburn Gear,sells brand new for 500 bucks, that ought to work just fine if the splines work and the carrier fits the hole. Probably have to fiddle the ring gear holes, but without having one in my hand to compare it's kinda hard.

I figured the ebay ones are junk. I think my Datsun guru installed one for someone and it worked ok, but certainly not great and probably not for long term. Good for a chump car, not for much else.

flatcat19 wrote:Betty wants to donate her alternator to gato plano.

I can get you an alternator pretty cheap brand new. Ugly Betty's is new, can't remember if I replaced the wagon's already. Either way, I can get you one.

No talking about h190 options.

I had a napa rebuild in my wagon. Lasted just barely over a year. so then I installed the 20+ year old one from the CA18.

Every so often you get a bad one. Failure rate on my rotating electrical is only 3%. That's pretty good. Red truck alternator is going on 3-4 years now, Ugly Betty's alternator is going on 2 years at 6500-7500 rpm in the summers at autocross. Both NAPAs, since I work there. Just sayin'.

But the H190 options, Auburn Gear is certainly reputable. I still don't know how many splines the H190 in the Maxima has though. Ah, just did some digging on ratsun (bah) and Datzenmike says in an old thread it's 29 spline, which sounds about right. So unless you made custom spiders or changed axle shafts, yeah, not going to work. I wonder if you could make the Ford 7.5" axle shafts the same dimensions as the Maxima axle shafts. Of course, that would probably be a bit expensive unless you got really lucky. Probably easier to just swap an entire 7.5" axle in.

There's always the old Ford 8". They were available in the Mustang II, Maverick and Pinto (4 lug and narrow) and have a pretty good availability of parts. Still pretty cheap too.

Yeah, I suppose that's true. Probably be a bit easier. Still rather keep it Nissan but at least that way the bolt pattern would be the same with common replacement parts.

HRH wrote:Now for icing on the cake. I want to make rear windows that open on the wagon. I need to get a window and frame cut out of the wagon in pull and save so I can disassemble it and see if it's easily possible to add a hinge like the hardbody rear windows and have sealing, functional rear side windows. That would be the cat's meow.

This. I'll need them on my Subaru when you're done

I know the issue on the 510 wagon is that the window is smaller than the opening and would look silly.

Probably something like minivan does. Then add a solenoid and make it electric opening.

Talked to my Datsun guru today, he said a Mustang 8.8 rear end is a good choice and it's easy to redrill the axles for Datsun bolt pattern. I'll have to narrow it a bit probably, but then I'll have a bulletproof axle and lots of lsds from which to choose.

At the moment I hate my job though. Been looking for something else. Have one iron in the fire with the city, but they won't even start getting into it until after the first of the year.

I agree, the 8.8 is bulletproof. But I think it is also way overkill and therefore way overweight. Also, larger ring means just that much further down something hangs. Just how much power will you throw at it?