New World Datsuns...

Anyone have a spare 5 speed?

Like a bawse! Those rear mains are pretty easy to do really. Use syl-glyde on the inside of the new seal before installing it That seal will outlast the car

Might as well replace the pilot bushing now while it's easy to do. Use a small screwdriver and split the old one lengthwise in 2 or 3 places and fish out the pieces. Try not to gouge the crank hole but a scratch is no big deal as it will just help hold the new one. Tap in a new one with a block of wood over it to protect it.

Ah, the age old question... grease the pilot or run it dry? Well I run them dry as this is how they are designed to run. Sintered bronze is porous like a sponge (and why it's so easy to split with a screwdriver) and has been soaked in oil so it is permanently lubricated. Grease will just attract abrasive clutch particles. Up to you.

Yeah, I'll replace with the new clutch. Just another while your in there item. Another method to removing them. Fill hole with grease, insert clutch tool/dowl/whatever that's the same size and tap it in. Hydraulic pressure will push the bushing right out. But the tool you use must be a tight fit. Giggity.

I'm on the hunt for a 5 speed.. If I can find one, it's a good time to swap. If not, it's just a few bolts to pull it out again.

What I found interesting was the engine didn't have much movement when the trans was removed. I usually expect to see the engine supported so it doesn't put pressure on the mounts or whatever else. Without that movement it made it kind of hard to get the bellhousing to clear the firewall/trans tunnel. I didn't look too much into it since I had gravity on my side. Going back in will be a different story.

Are the rock hard hoses acting as a 3rd and 4th engine mount...?

draker wrote:Yeah, I'll replace with the new clutch. Just another while your in there item. Another method to removing them. Fill hole with grease, insert clutch tool/dowl/whatever that's the same size and tap it in. Hydraulic pressure will push the bushing right out. But the tool you use must be a tight fit. Giggity.

I'm on the hunt for a 5 speed.. If I can find one, it's a good time to swap. If not, it's just a few bolts to pull it out again.

What I found interesting was the engine didn't have much movement when the trans was removed. I usually expect to see the engine supported so it doesn't put pressure on the mounts or whatever else. Without that movement it made it kind of hard to get the bellhousing to clear the firewall/trans tunnel. I didn't look too much into it since I had gravity on my side. Going back in will be a different story.

Are the rock hard hoses acting as a 3rd and 4th engine mount...?

The grease method is a fine one(use it when I change pilot bushing),sounds funky too.

Yeah, when I first heard about it I was like.. what the heck? But the first time I tried it.. I was amazed!

If going hydraulic use ivory or some other soft soap. Just pack it in there... less messy. Splitting is way faster/easier. You can do it in the time it takes to read this post twice.

draker wrote:Yeah, I'll replace with the new clutch. Just another while your in there item. Another method to removing them. Fill hole with grease, insert clutch tool/dowl/whatever that's the same size and tap it in. Hydraulic pressure will push the bushing right out. But the tool you use must be a tight fit. Giggity.

I'm on the hunt for a 5 speed.. If I can find one, it's a good time to swap. If not, it's just a few bolts to pull it out again.

What I found interesting was the engine didn't have much movement when the trans was removed. I usually expect to see the engine supported so it doesn't put pressure on the mounts or whatever else. Without that movement it made it kind of hard to get the bellhousing to clear the firewall/trans tunnel. I didn't look too much into it since I had gravity on my side. Going back in will be a different story.

Are the rock hard hoses acting as a 3rd and 4th engine mount...?

It probably is the hoses. They kind of act like a shock or a damper w/e. Hoses are soft ish, but will keep the engine in line. If you jack up the front of the motor with them attached you can hear them tear inside (ask me how i learned this). Just undo the rad hoses and you'll have a floppy motor you can rock front or back. I usually put a 1/4" thick piece of wood board behind the motor to keep it from going back and smashing the brake lines just in case I go tommy fuckin torque on the jacking up the front of the motor.

Good info man, thanks! I have new hoses to put on... so it looks like those will be getting replaced the same time the trans is going in.

This thread isn't dead... I'm in a holding period.

I was looking for a 5 speed to replace the tranny while I had the 4 speed out. I found someone selling the back half of a dogleg... then izzo was selling a broken dogleg. I bought both.

Once I get the other dogleg, I'll assemble and finally get some closure on this thread.

Thats the way to get a dogleg

Man on a mission

Uh......



Uh...


A short dogleg tail casing on a long dogleg ? This should be interesting.

I think he is just using the front half of the case of this one, to put on a good back short case dogleg, that was my understanding.. should be fine. the fronts were the same, the backs were different.

I wonder why the front case would be missing? Maybe it was a Z series.

datsunmike wrote:I wonder why the front case would be missing? Maybe it was a Z series.

Guy parted the front case to someone else a while back.

Shit. Dude... im in Portland now at the hospital. Didnt even think of grabbing it

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeet..........

Next time.

Clutch ordered. Need to get the flywheel milled.

sweet. and you gotta get your trans

izzo wrote:sweet. and you gotta get your trans

I do!

I was thinking about installing the 4 speed again until I can get the two 5 speeds put together. We'll see how it goes.. I might just wait.