New World Datsuns...

Looks like you're getting close to the end.

Stuff like this is never what you envision when you start, there is always way more to do, the joys of home ownership, or in your case, just helping out.

Still waiting on the tile tutorial. Done yet?

wayno wrote:Stuff like this is never what you envision when you start, there is always way more to do, the joys of home ownership, or in your case, just helping out.

This times a million!!!!!

Done yet?

No...

Laecaon wrote:No...

Burnt out yet?

I am buying a house soon I know who I am calling

I get burnt out on projects within 3 days if I dont have someone helping me. Its not hard. Its time consuming, and I go crazy.

That said I stoped doing work for a complete month. Holidays are fun! I am back to working on the house. Ill update soon. Very soon.

I'm the same way man.. It's looking good though. Good work.

Update! Finally...

Well I got around to sanding everything. It was terrible. I duct taped my shop vac to my random orbital. It helped.
















And texture... Surprisingly easy.





That said, I need to redo a spot in my moms room. That will be easy... But then I have to figure out how to do knockdown for the ceiling in the room. The bathroom got Orange Peel for the ceiling.

Laecaon wrote:I get burnt out on projects within 3 days if I dont have someone helping me. Its not hard. Its time consuming, and I go crazy.

That said I stoped doing work for a complete month. Holidays are fun! I am back to working on the house. Ill update soon. Very soon.

I am the same way, don't like going to the same place everyday, that's why I like doing what I do, different place everyday/thing everyday, and not that technical, all I have to do is not be stupid or do something dumb.
I made $8100.00 for a 3 week job a couple years ago, after the first week I was wishing I had not taken the job.

[quote="Laecaon"]

I have to figure out how to do knockdown for the ceiling in the room. quote]
the way to do the knock down is take a 2x4 x 8" or 12" board ( scrap piece) and lay it flat on the 4" side OR you can use a steel trowel and use a sweep movement. Moving the " instrument of choice" to where the next area needs knocked down. This has to be done while the material is still wet on the walls.

no need to press hard, just a light amount of pressure to keep the instrument up against the wall.

Long time no update. Sigh. This really should have been done awhile ago.

Painted the Bedroom.

I have a technique for painting, which effectively eliminates tape. Seen Here:

Get some paint on the wall near an edge.


Start by pushing in on the brush to bend the bristles over.


Finally, drag the brush with a steady hand. This really isnt so bad to do.


Why do I do this? Because either the tape is too strong, and pulls off the finish on this old wood, or its super weak and lets paint in underneath.
I just make sure to have a damp cloth nearby if I mess up anything. I also paint with no drop cloths of any kind.


Got the Electrical hooked back up in the Bathroom. Not sure if I have an issue with the outlets, the GCFI stays constantly off; lights work fine. I was about to paint the bathroom, when I decided I would make a mess of the walls if I tiled after.

So first I pulled up the underlayment, and cleaned up.





Since nothing in this how is square. You kinda have to make do with what you have. Cutting the Cement board for the floor was fun. Here you can see me using a roll of tape to make sure I draw a line that is parallel with the wall.





And all the puzzle pieces dry fitted!





I really like how this came out so nicely.


And this nice tight edge.

Nice work man! Inspiring actually.. I will be doing this (minus the water damage) at some point.

Coming along nicely. That's the only way I paint.



When you lay the tile, look into "leave in" spacers. Makes it a little quicker when grouting. Not sure if you know or not but you only need white thinset (grey is cheaper) if you are messy and are going with a white or light colored grout. (Although I wouldn't go with a light color grout on a bathroom floor) Also, they make grouts that have sealer in them so you wouldn't have to do that later. Sealing grout is solely personal preference. I did not seal the countertops in my bathroom and my son constantly gets toothpaste on it. All it does is cuts the chances of grout staining down. We sell Custom Building Products where I work and they make good quality stuff. If the tile will be higher than the other floor in the doorway look into Schlueter or Great Lakes transition metals for a nice clean edge. They have to be installed BEFORE the tile. Make sure you use the correct notch trowel for the tile. And you need to wait a day between laying tile and grouting so the thinset can bond and don't walk on the tile after it is placed, work toward the door. Pop a chalk line off the longest wall to get started. If you have any questions just let me know, I'll do the best I can to help.

Taterhead wrote:Coming along nicely. That's the only way I paint.



When you lay the tile, look into "leave in" spacers. Makes it a little quicker when grouting. Not sure if you know or not but you only need white thinset (grey is cheaper) if you are messy and are going with a white or light colored grout. (Although I wouldn't go with a light color grout on a bathroom floor) Also, they make grouts that have sealer in them so you wouldn't have to do that later. Sealing grout is solely personal preference. I did not seal the countertops in my bathroom and my son constantly gets toothpaste on it. All it does is cuts the chances of grout staining down. We sell Custom Building Products where I work and they make good quality stuff. If the tile will be higher than the other floor in the doorway look into Schlueter or Great Lakes transition metals for a nice clean edge. They have to be installed BEFORE the tile. Make sure you use the correct notch trowel for the tile. And you need to wait a day between laying tile and grouting so the thinset can bond and don't walk on the tile after it is placed, work toward the door. Pop a chalk line off the longest wall to get started. If you have any questions just let me know, I'll do the best I can to help.

Lots of good info here. I don't know shit about tile.. except I want it.

My dad was a master tile setter. My house has more tile on it than most. And I have helped or done every surface. Its not my first time. I just don't like cutting the stuff.

thanks for the tips! I think I planner it right for the level of the tile to carpet. I went with 1/4" cement board.

1/4 is cool for floors as it is not for rigitity, it's only for tile to bond to since tile doesn't bond to wood subfloors well and the grout would crack easily. But if your dad was a setter, you already knew that.

Yea, and its a house with true 3/4inch sub floors. I was walking around with not a single creak. I have gone over wood before, but I wont do it in bathrooms or kitchens. Mainly the problem with wood is the expansion due to temperature. It expands and contracts more than concrete/stone, and thus will crack grout. Im about to start laying the tile down...