New World Datsuns...

I went out there after posting my last reply and tried to find something that would go around the pin sticking up and fit in the axle centering hole, nothing will work, they are too close to the same size.
I looked at it some more and it appears I could male a block for the top of the leaf that clamps onto the leaf that is against the axle perch, this would keep the axle from sliding forward, I am not really worried about sideways or movement towards the rear, I am only worried about vibration and movement forward.
The only thing I would need to make is the blocks, I have the clamps as the Cab/Chassis overload helper springs have the "U" bolts I need and I have 2 sets of them, which there are 8 clamps per set and I only need 2 of them.
I just went out and got one of the clamps and 2 blocks, if one block would not work 2 of them would, I will look at it tomorrow.

I just bought this for this truck, it's the same turbo as the one I took off but that one has been modified(larger intake vane), the plan here is too see how this one acts compared to what is on this now, in the end my friend is going to end up with one of these turbos for his diesel truck.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-PREM ... rk:16:pf:0
I might go to the Foster wrecking yard again and grab at least one of the turbo head pipe connections to the turbo so I don't have to make anymore of them, there was at least 4 of them over there and one was already removed just sitting on the engine, they cut them off a couple inches from the turbo to remove the catalytic converter, at least that is what I think happened.

First thing I did was put a clamp on each side of my leaf springs to keep the axle from being able to move forward.

I did think of a way to make the centering pins in the leafs taller, find a longer bolt that fits and is threaded all the way to the head, double nut the head end, then stick the bolt in my drill and put the head on the side of the bench grinder stone wheel and pull the trigger on the drill and make the heads of the bolts round, now it is double the head height and will stick out past the 4 degree wedge, but I would have to completely remove the axle from the leafs again, maybe on a dry day as it is wet outside right now and I don't feel like laying on the wet ground.

So I got one turbo exhaust flange, I was amazed when I got to the Vancouver pick and pull(PNP) that the first 2 VW Passats that were in the yard still had their catalytic converters in them, I finally found one with the CAT cut out and it was easy to remove the turbo exhaust flange, and I kept the mount nuts also.
Have any of you guys noticed that you never have large metric nuts in your nuts and bolts cans/buckets, the size of the transmission and head bolt threads is what I am talking about, I have thousands of nuts but none are them that size in metric, mine are all SAE after the head of the bolt is larger than 13mm.

Well that was easy enough, I was looking in my nuts/bolts bucket and found a bolt just slightly longer, when I looked at it closer I sighed, it was a longer leaf locating pin, I walked over to all the extra leafs I have and a cab/chassis set had longer bolts.
So what I did was put 2 lock washers on the bolt and I dropped it in and tightened it up and put the wedge over it, it looked good, the whole head stuck out above the wedge and now it is done, I tried 3 lock washers, but the axle would not seat as the 3rd lock washer was slightly above the wedge.

Sometimes it's simple. Nice job.

This came by UPS today, the seller never notified me that it was shipped, I was wondering what was going on as I was notified about everything else.







It will need some adjusting to make it fit, but it is new and the parts should move/spin easily as it is not a rusty old turbo, I need the oil exit to be pointed straight down and I need the compressor exit to be pointed slightly down, the turbo mocked up on the head in the garage is the same turbocharger except the intake vane is not modified/larger on this one.
This one also appears to have the waste gate pre-set for a certain psi, it is likely adjustable but it will be easier to just put a valve in that controls that waste gate setting from in the cab, it's just one line connected to a "T" in the waste gate line.

I have no idea who them tiny little gloves are going to fit in that bag with the metal gaskets, who do they think buys this things???

Get to work!

ebay turbo... that will be interesting.

We shall see

I bought it from a seller that had sold a bunch of them(69 at that time), his feedback was 98.8

I put the ebay turbocharger in yesterday and finished today, I had to change some oil line routing so I stopped last night and picked up the parts this morning and continued on, I am happy so far for the most part, I got it on the road.
The piping from the turbo to the intake is the only thing I don't like, the turbo outlet is pointed too far down or it will be pointed too far up and I cannot do much about it as the adjustments are 90 degrees, I need a 45 degree change, the issue is the waste gate valve/rod position, but at this moment the waste gate is not functioning anyway so I suppose I could delete it.
I drove it freeway speeds and seen 18psi once because I kept my foot into the pedal to see how high it would go, I let off at 18psi as it was still climbing, I didn't have a lot of tools with me too fix stuff, it drove normal on the test drive, right around 4/5psi at 50mph, that is what I want.
Another thing I noticed is that this turbo is much quieter than the other turbo, the other one was howling at certain rpms and this one is quiet at all rpms so far, the whole truck is a lot quieter, the exhaust is a lot quieter also, I cannot even hear it now with the muffler, I am thinking even though the other turbo worked fine, it built up lots of psi, I suspect it was kinda wore out or something, I mentioned it was very loud when I got it going and that is why I put a muffler on it, I don't think I need the muffler any more, I cannot even hear the turbo whistle any more out the exhaust.
I might look at the waste gate tomorrow afternoon if it is not raining, maybe there is a way to make an adapter bracket to put the waste gate valve/rod assembly where it is supposed to be, right now I just forced it around to this weird position so I could connect up the piping to the intake, that is why it is not functioning right now.

This is what I did, I took the bolts out of the waste gate mount bracket and then re-positioned the compressor outlet to the way I want/need it, then I positioned the bracket where I wanted/needed it, marked the bracket where it needed drilled, drilled it and mounted it.
Normally the bracket is held on by 2 bolts, now it is held on by one out of center bolt, I used washers on the bolt with no bracket, it was late and raining so I just put everything in the garage and called it a night, I will start it tomorrow and see how everything is working, then I will re-connect the hose going to the waste gate, put a tee in that line and pipe a hose into the cab with a valve to control the waste gate, I want it to not go over 15psi.
I drove it on the freeway today, it has a little more PSI/boost than I want at 65mph(6/8psi) and it can only be more at 75mph, this turbocharger is smaller than the Subie turbocharger on the 521 kingcab which I like the best, it runs 4/6psi at 75mph, I suspect this turbo will work good on my friends SD22 engine, now I need to figure out what Subie turbo I have on the 521 kingcab and see how much them cost.

Well it is basically done right now, I piped the valve in but either the valve is shot or it needs a more sensitive type valve that makes smaller changes as the one I have is either open or closed as one click is like no valve at all, I go from 7/8psi to 15psi plus when going up a grade.
This engine has higher EGT temps than the 521 kingcab, but the EGT probe is not in the proper place on the 521 kingcab, also the pump is turned up on this injection pump while the 521 kingcab it is stock, I have an inter-cooler on this truck I can use, it is not piped in right now, the average EGT temp was 800 degrees, but it rose to 1100 degrees fairly fast, I didn't see anything higher but I was in traffic also.
I opened the valve going up a grade and didn't feel anymore power(in traffic), so I can live with the valve closed and 7/8psi(stock turbo adjustment for a 2002 VW Passat), it climbs the hills just fine.







The truck still has a vibration in 3rd gear(about 30/40mph), but once past it it is smooth and fairly quiet, but the muffler is still in the exhaust system, I don't feel like removing it right now to see how loud it is with this turbocharger.
Also the speedo is off and I cannot really go that fast as I have them small low profile tires all around on the truck, I spent the money on them so I want to use them, but I will not likely take this truck on a trip anyways as I like driving the 521 kingcab way better, that truck is a pleasure to drive, I wish I had 3.30 gears for that one.

So I worked on this a little today, first thing I did was remove the rear dually wheels, then I mounted them back together as they are made that way, the outside one is removed, then the inside one can be removed, I connected the outside one to the inside one and then spun balanced them together instead of each one by itself, I marked them to make sure I put them back on the way they were balanced.
Next I raised the carrier back up over an inch, then while it was up I removed the muffler and re-connected the flex pipes back together the way they were before I added the muffler.
Next I took it for a test drive, it still has a slight vibration around 35/40mph but it is much better now and the power is also better, the muffler was holding the engine back, and it's not any noisier than with the muffler, this is likely because of the newer turbo.
Then I pulled the oil drain tube off the turbo, it has been leaking and I have tried to fix it without success, this time I welded another tube with a 60 degree bend to the stub, it took a couple tries but I think I have it now, the issue is that all the fittings I have are pointed a bad direction and that is why the former owner of the engine cut it off and made it a stub, I took it for a short drive after the first try but it leaked in several places, I am hoping I succeeded this time, I revved the engine in the driveway and could not see any leaks with my flashlight and mirror.
Over all it is better than it was now, it drives way better, and it has always leaked oil(several years), I recently made it a mission to fix all the leaks, right now it appears they are all fixed except the oil dipstick tube connection near the oil pan, but the injection pump will have to be removed to fix that one and it is not that bad, only a drip or two after I get home from a drive in the oil catch pan in the driveway.
The 521 kingcab also leaks, if this one is better now I will likely rip into that one and see if I can stop the oil leaks.
Sorry I didn't take any photos as I just focused on getting everything done, I sure do like my air jacks, I fixed my favorite one the other day as it was leaking down, the rubber cup inside was full of grease and dirt, now it works perfect, the other air jack was really sloppy, I added a short piece of angle iron on each side and now it works great.

Well I have been playing around with the idea of making my own turbo exhaust manifold, well today I went and bought the parts, well all but 2 of them that I didn't know I was going to need, this is how far I have gotten.





I also thought about boring a hole into the side of the stock exhaust manifold, but decided to try welding a pipe into a 720 exhaust manifold first, I was told by the neighbor that it would likely break on the edges of the weld after it cooled or if I dropped it on the floor, I had already welded it when he told me that, so I let it cool overnight and when he was home today I took it over to him and asked again if he thought it would break on the edges, he shrugged and I told him this was a cracked manifold and was scrap to me then I tossed it at least 10 feet across the driveway to see if it would break, you guys should have seen his face, anyway it hit the tube I welded in and didn't break, so I tossed it several more times making sure it hit the tube and it never broke, he told me that it must not be cast iron, it must be a cast steel manifold and to go ahead and use it, I repeated it was scrap to me and was just a test,
I actually thought it would be thicker walled.

The tube in the manifold, it was a tight fit.

Welded in






Now this went well above on that manifold, but the diesel exhaust manifold may be a different metal than the Z24 exhaust manifold even though it was made around the same time/era, but my diesel manifold is also not very big around in the area I would need to bore a hold in the side, I am not sure if it would take an inch and a half inside diameter hole in the side of it, that is why I decided to make my own manifold, I will buy 2 more 45 degree elbows tomorrow and connect the 2 middle cylinders to the straight pipe going across and then bore a hole in the side to mount the turbo mount flange, I also need to figure out what angle to mount the turbo mount flange.

I like stuff like this.

I do too but sometimes it takes me years to get motivated, it took years for me to turbocharge my diesel engines and I had the turbo for the 521 kingcab at least 4 years, I had that turbo manifold I used on it for at least 7 years, only when I decided to clean shit up around here did I realize that that home made manifold might actually work, and it works great.
I am hoping this one has the same results.

I got the manifold finished for the most part and the turbo mounted, my welding is not pretty, but I suspect it will hold and hopefully not leak.
He are the photos of it as it sits now, all mount washers and nuts are in place in these photos, I still have to weld in the bung for the pyrometer probe.

Yay log manifolds!

I would definitely make a heat shield considering how close the turbo is to the intake manifold.

That is where all my turbos have been located since I put the one in the 521 kingcab , that one is closest of all to the intake manifold and the master brake reservoirs/lines also, not much room in that engine compartment, I made a heat shield for the brake stuff on that one, but the intake I can do nothing about it as the stock exhaust/intake are very close from the factory.
The funny/hilarious thing is that stock engine without turbo runs/averages way hotter(EGTs) than it does with the turbo, on the freeway(70/75mph) without the turbo the EGTs are over a 1000 degrees 90+ percent of the time, with the turbo it averages 600/800 degrees on level ground and it climbs near a 1000 degrees on short hills, and it climbs to 1200 degrees on long uphill grades going 70/75mph, without the turbo that same long uphill grade it would climb to 1400 degrees and I would have to let off and would be lucky to keep it above 50mph while the EGTs would be above 1300 degrees the whole time, the turbo made the truck a pleasure to drive.
So that is what I made, a log manifold, I did consider making another manifold the same way but have it farther out away from the head, it would make it a lot easier to make and mount, the turbo would also be easier to mount also, I have had to make mods to some of the thick washers to clear the log manifold, this was my first one I have ever made, I am positive I can make a nicer one.

Looks good to me. Interesting info about EGTs.