New World Datsuns...

Do not take what I say as the Bible, I just read a manual.
There are way more precise ways of tuning these carbs, but we are driving them on the street, it's just not that important to get them that precise.
Mine will idle at 700/800rpms, but it is not a smooth idle, I believe that your goal should be for a smooth idle at about 1000rpms, get everything dialed in, then go for a lower idle, but first you have to get everything moving smoothly, if the linkage is screwing you up, then you need to figure out the issue, remove the linkage, does everything work correctly again, no revving, consistent idle?

Stop being modest.
I have learned so much by reading your posts, and others', for the last few years.

flatcat19 wrote:I think you are over thinking it.

I have not tuned SUs but have tuned plenty of dual carb setups on different makes.

Lots of good SU advice here and in the dual carb thread.
Take what Wayno says as The Bible.

When opening, they need to react the same. Not late or early. Timed in unison.
One can not hear a rich or lean condition.
Does it sound like 1 is sucking more air than the other?

A UniSync tool is your friend.
A long piece of vacuum hose is like the neighbor kid you don't dislike on a rainy day.

Listen to the openings.
From what I understand, these should just barely be hissing at idle.
Make both of them sound the same.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm still learning about SUs myself.

Do you have a timing light?
To be backfiring-your timing is off.

The carbs seem to be pretty even but I might be wrong.
I'll double check sunday when I get more time to work on it all.
thanks.

I did some more reading and found that it's not a very clean idle but somewhat rough which is what I have.
I feel like the car would be fine but as wayno said, they may run but not be good.

wayno wrote:Do not take what I say as the Bible, I just read a manual.
There are way more precise ways of tuning these carbs, but we are driving them on the street, it's just not that important to get them that precise.
Mine will idle at 700/800rpms, but it is not a smooth idle, I believe that your goal should be for a smooth idle at about 1000rpms, get everything dialed in, then go for a lower idle, but first you have to get everything moving smoothly, if the linkage is screwing you up, then you need to figure out the issue, remove the linkage, does everything work correctly again, no revving, consistent idle?

another problem is 68 dashes don't have an idle meter which is a problem for me.
I'm not quiet sure what it's settling at.
If I could get something to read the idle, I think it'd be a lot more easier.

Idle meter? A tach?
Most of ours didn't come with one.

flatcat19 wrote:Idle meter? A tach?
Most of ours didn't come with one.

so how do I know where it sits?

flatcat19 wrote:Idle meter? A tach?
Most of ours didn't come with one.

Ours?

Does this mean that's what you're getting

datmo wrote:

flatcat19 wrote:Idle meter? A tach?
Most of ours didn't come with one.

so how do I know where it sits?

I'm not sure tachs were an available option on a '68. But if I had to guess they would be where the clock is on this one. To the right of the speedo.

You can mount a tach to your steering column. Really easy.
You can get a decent tach on the cheap.


And to Taterhead...no. No 510. Getting cold.
I meant ours as in most Datsuns.

You know what's real similar in size? early 720 square dashes had a tachometer, square, about that size. might just fit....

This is the one I have in my stash. Was going to mount it in to the 521.
One of these will mount to your steering column. Easily removable.
It's been sitting here collecting dust.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2300/overview/

^^ I have that same tach. Works great!

I wired it so the light comes on when the power does for the tach, instead of when the lights are on... Easier and doesn't require tapping/cutting into light wires.

They're nice and all but do i need a tach?
I won't be taking the car to a track or anything.
I know it'd be helpful but once this is resolved, I won't be needing anything to do with engine stuff for about another couple years.
I'll eventually switch to an l20b and webers but like i said, that's going to be in at least a year.

Thanks Izzo and Flatcat for the pics.
In my 68 dash, I just had a D where the clock in that dash is.

I'm gonna look and see if it's anything to do with my timing.

I painted my coil white and dizzy cap white but my brother gave me shit and made me feel like crap so I'm going to paint them black.

I feel like if i could fix the intake of the carbs, it'd be fine.
Whenever you push part of the linkage at the bottom closest to the manifold, the carb sucks in air while the other is not as efficient.

Not sure how to describe what I'm talking about.

I just hope i can get the car running by the time i get my license in a week from monday.

btw, rear coilovers being shipped to me!

Do not paint parts like your ignition system.
They build up heat and paint just keeps that in.
Premature failure.

Who paints their coil and cap?


You have been given your the answer to your carb question.
If need more help maybe find a Ratsun member in Socal willing and able to help you.
Read anything written by Sealik. Contact Z Therapy. Reread all written here.

Having a tach is super.

flatcat19 wrote:Do not paint parts like your ignition system.
They build up heat and paint just keeps that in.
Premature failure.

Who paints their coil and cap?


You have been given your the answer to your carb question.
If need more help maybe find a Ratsun member in Socal willing and able to help you.
Read anything written by Sealik. Contact Z Therapy. Reread all written here.

Having a tach is super.

wanna sell me the tach you posted a pic of?
just thought it'd be something cool.

my coil came in half red and chipped paint.
I don't want to leave it bare metal. Won't it rust?

The cap, I'll just remove the paint since it's plastic and keep black.

I'll do the tach for $50/shipped.
It's just sitting here. It may be a few months before I have a Datsun running and rolling.

Don't stress the coil. Patina never hurt anything.

flatcat19 wrote:I'll do the tach for $50/shipped.
It's just sitting here. It may be a few months before I have a Datsun running and rolling.

Don't stress the coil. Patina never hurt anything.

Then i might as well take off the paint off of it completely.
It looks shitty.
The bare metal will be fine.

I always see colored caps so i figured they were just painted.

The tach's are $50 new.
can't do anything else?

I bought it for the $52 plus shipping.
You aren't paying for that.

You asked if I wanted to sell. I'd want to sell it to you for $50. Shipping included.
It's brand new. But to answer your question...No. I don't; But would.
This is the point you will be allowed to say no thanks.

I feel like if i could fix the intake of the carbs, it'd be fine.
Whenever you push part of the linkage at the bottom closest to the manifold, the carb sucks in air while the other is not as efficient.

Not sure how to describe what I'm talking about.



^^^^^^^^^
I am not sure what you mean by this statement above, pushing down on the linkage makes the carb suck air, where is the carb sucking air? in the intake hole? are you saying that one carb shaft moves before the other?

flatcat19 wrote:I bought it for the $52 plus shipping.
You aren't paying for that.

You asked if I wanted to sell. I'd want to sell it to you for $50. Shipping included.
It's brand new. But to answer your question...No. I don't; But would.
This is the point you will be allowed to say no thanks.

no thanks.
I appreciate it though.

No stress.

wayno wrote:I feel like if i could fix the intake of the carbs, it'd be fine.
Whenever you push part of the linkage at the bottom closest to the manifold, the carb sucks in air while the other is not as efficient.

Not sure how to describe what I'm talking about.



^^^^^^^^^
I am not sure what you mean by this statement above, pushing down on the linkage makes the carb suck air, where is the carb sucking air? in the intake hole? are you saying that one carb shaft moves before the other?

it doesn't necessarily move better but performs better.
I'll try to get a video of it this Sunday. and yes, in the intake hole.