New World Datsuns...

Nope, I lied, still doesn't work. Fing a cotton, this is annoying.

Are you able to see any of the photos in the last few pages?

Not sure this will help or relatable at all

Long story short , I burned up my Malory uni-lite ignition module when I didn’t add a filter to it (recommended by them). L28E flat-top setup dropped into 73’ S30z Replaced module + added a filter (for voltage spikes) and =never had the issue again.

Cars lookin good !

Thanks Blue! Not sure yet on this, it's been so freakin' hot I haven't had time to play with it. Going to wait until this weekend. After confirming I'm going to hook up the MSD anyway. Still have it, and that will let me hook up the boost retard box, which means I can set the timing farther advanced before boost kicks in and get more oomph out of the low end. And it should solve the ignition module issue. I'll keep you guys posted.

Nope, still can't see the photos unless I'm not on the home network. At this point I'm just ignoring it.

Test again. Dammit. Nope, still doesn't work. Now I can upload, just can't see the picture.


So when I click the insecure red triangle for the link, it says it goes to *.dock.shp.mcafee.com which is of course not the correct certification for i.postimg.cc or postimage in general. I also don't have mcafee installed on the computer.

Oh look, there's an update from Microfucks. Maybe they screwed something up and now they're fixing it. Downloading, we shall see.

Who is your ISP? Are you using their provided router? If so they may have installed McAfee.

Its not your computer, as you said it was on your phone too when connected to your home wifi. So its either your router, or your ISP.

Centurylink is the ISP, I'm using their router. Can the router itself have an anti-virus installed on it? I didn't see anything in it that suggested so. I went three rounds with centurylink, they say my router is up to date with the newest firmware.

Yeah, I think I'm going to switch providers. They keep saying it's the website. So if it's the website, WHY THE FUCK DOES IT WORK WHEN I DON'T USE CENTURYLINK?!!!! Fucking annoying. I'm going to go work on the race car.

100% Century Link. If you search google with that mcafee thing you got, there are lots of reports of CenturyLink propblems. Many report that their routers got updated and now have mcafee installed.

So I hooked up the fast box MSD copy and it works and gets triggered but I have no spark because the ECU can't see it. I have two other options to wire the spark trigger for the ECU that should work. If it doesn't work then either I finally get a new system for the car or I hook up the old ignition module with an additional coil mounted somewhere for the sole purpose of giving the motec ECU and the ignition signal LOL. I'm hoping I should be able to run it from the tach signal box from the fast unit to the ECU and have it take that and work. Being the motec is so old and it has pots for each 500 RPM increment it needs a negative coil connection to figure out RPM. If the fast unit hasn't changed that output then theoretically the tack output should ignore the first three Sparks under 3,000 RPM where it would screw up the count. the way I figure it the white coil wire should be just like the negative of the ignition coil so as long as that works for the motec I'll be good.

tomorrow will be a testing day hopefully it'll work and I don't have to change more stuff.

Got the FAST unit working. Have to run the Motec off the tach output wire. Problem is, it's running too lean right now, not happy. It will idle, but something is still amiss. Did a few tests already. Going to swap the coil with a new one and try that first. The ignition module did test bad and the car does idle now. Try and go beyond that and it's upset though. Considering the first issue happened after heat soak, the ignition module and coil are the only things in the engine bay. Unless the Motec has an internal fault. Suppose I'll check the cap/rotor/ distributor as well, make sure the rotor didn't whack something inside. At the moment it's rather weird. Only other thing I can think of is the map sensor internal to the Motec, but it's out of the way of heat, shouldn't really be an issue. I'm hoping the coil is breaking down in the secondary windings. We'll see I guess.

Swapped another good coil in, not a coil issue. The distributor shaft has a little excess play, though I don't think that's the issue. The other I had on the shelf felt similar, not quite as much play. I may swap it out just to see. I'm thinking the wideband is right and it's just too lean. Going to start it and feed some brake cleaner into the intake and see if it smooths out. Pretty content it's not spark related anymore. Fuel pressure is 55 psi, doesn't waver, so it should be fuel pump or filter. At this point, I'm leaning towards something broken in the ECU. Entirely possible of course, it is from 1989.

Ok, testing as follows:

1. Vacuum gauge teed into Motec MAP vacuum line. Observe steady vacuum signal. Sprayed brake cleaner all over, found no other vacuum leaks.
2. Hooked timing light to all cylinders while running and idling, none drop out. Therefore: no ignition problem.
3. Engine off, fuel pump running in recirc: 52ish psi dead steady. Therefore, no fuel filter or fuel pump issue.
4. Engine on, lopey idle, more than normal, if held at 1500-2000 ish rpm, fuel pressure drops according with crappy running by about 4 psi. Other than that is stays at 52 psi.
5. Got engine above idle and while running, squirted brake cleaner into the intake and it picked up and smoothed out.
6. Given all the above, it seems to be a Motec problem. The only thing I didn't do was hook up the GM module and bypass the FAST box, but given it starts and runs and has strong timing light signal with no drops, I'm going to say that's not an issue.

It looks like it's time for a newer fuel injection system.

Ok, before I pull the plug on spending more dough, I called my Datsun guru, and he said check the fuel pump and fuel filter anyway. Reason being, perhaps the pump is sort of working, which is why it idles, but doesn't have enough volume to keep up above idle. FIgured a quick way to test is to run the fuel pressure regulator up to 100 psi (max on gauge) with the engine off and see if it remains strong and steady. If not, that will indicate an issue. Foam looks good in fuel cell, but that doesn't mean everything.

I also swapped the GM ignitor unit back on to test, same problem. So the good news is if I find a fuel issue and the Motec isn't bad, I can run the FAST box without issue. I'll do more testing after dinner.

Not saying it’s your issue at all.... FWIW , I too , had a volume issue not a pressure issue on my 280zxt L28ETfuel pump. My Fuel pressure tested perfectly , but the volume test failed when I checked it pumping volume/measuring externally. That was just a factory “Style” stock Datsun EFI pump though. I swapped it and those issues went away.

That's the same pump I have. I'm hoping I don't have fuel cell foam starting to degrade. I'm about ready to head out and start inspecting things. Really wish I had a lift to check it out. Shop is too busy, I'd have to move 4 cars just to get the race car in right now. Guess I'm just going to jack it up on the trailer.

As my Datsun guru said, "Don't blame the electronics, they rarely fail."

So I did my quick test with the fuel pressure regulator. The needle started bouncing as soon as I hit 80 psi. I'm thinking I may have the exact problem you mentioned Blue. I'm also going to take this time to get a Walbro fuel pump like the one I put in the wagon for the RB swap. I think that will be a little better option for longevity and pressure. And now since it's nice and hot, I'm going to go pull the line off the fuel cell and see what comes out. Hopefully no chunks.