New World Datsuns...

found a series of vids i liked that showed the bottom end assembly, figured i share

Or just palm the rings on...

and for assembly lube, you will find a million different opinions on what is appropriate. I simply did a 50:50 mix of 10w30 and stp oil additive. Many do motor oil and white lithium grease.


I have a ring compressor...

after research i might just have my machinist put the bottom end together.......

cus lazy and time restraints....

eh oh well, I have seen their work, it always looks great.

Oh and I want to borrow the water temp sensor, though I dont remember which one...

don't use the white lithium grease, it tends to separate. Think it's a water base product is why.

what I've used is Clevite bearing guard # 2800B2 because it won't separate and stays where you apply it for months, maybe even a few years.

if you go with the ( 50:50 mix of 10w30 and stp oil additive ) make sure it's a NON-detergent oil so the parts will wear to fit instead of a detergent oil which does is cleans as your breaking in your engine.

you prob already know but worth saying. When you do the engine break in, the NON- detergent oil only needs to be in the engine up to around 50 miles, give or take, don't need to be exact. Make sure you do several compression runs during the break in so the rings will seat. GL

engine break in im familiar with, just not bottom end assembly


good info to have here tho!!!!

wished I was closer, I love putting bottom ends together.

glad I could help you & others with some info.

me too......


i hate being a "newb" but the KA has me feeling that way all over again

Meh. Just regasket the thing.
I have seen Hardbodys with 500,000 miles+ and a handful of 240sxs with 300,000+.

As long as things are clean-do it.
But if you have that nag that you need a rebuild you will always be weary.

well....................................































i couldnt leave it alone

































so now im in it balls deep

have you mic the journals and the piston bore?



Without that info, how will you know what direction you need to go ?

no, i havnt....


i just got it tore down last night then had to finish up on my brothers motor install in the B210



and i need to go buy a mic...

Eagle_Adam wrote:no, i havnt....


i just got it tore down last night then had to finish up on my brothers motor install in the B210



and i need to go buy a mic...

mic's are very spendy. Know anyone with mic's ?
OR V
I'm not sure but maybe you can take the block and crank to a machine shop that will mic it for you. If you got a machine shop in mind, they will do this since they need to know what their going to be doing to the goods.

i think im going to have everything hot tanked at my machinist and honed, then ill see if he can mic them for me and order the correct bearings and rings as well



assembly will be done by me to save some $$$

Eagle_Adam wrote:i think im going to have everything hot tanked at my machinist and honed, then ill see if he can mic them for me and order the correct bearings and rings as well



assembly will be done by me to save some $$$

after you get it back from hot tanking, take a can of WD-40 with block to a car wash. Set engine on the rear where the trans would bolt up, put a few boards or something to keep it off the ground.
Take the can of WD-40 and spray from top to bottom on the inside of engine and spray it downward with wd-40. This will pull out most if not all the micro specks of metallic's out of the pores of the casings.
Once you've got most or all the metallic's out of the pores. Wash it out with high pressure car wash, no soap, please. Just HOT wash or rinse.
The metal/casting will get a look of the metal lightly rusting, don't worry, by the time you get it home and put together, it's going to get oiled.

OR

you can just skip the car wash rinse and use a lint free cloth and just dap up the excess wd-40. Which you can do this in your garage.

Store that crank on the end. Tis bad to lay em down.

Ni10 wrote:

Eagle_Adam wrote:i think im going to have everything hot tanked at my machinist and honed, then ill see if he can mic them for me and order the correct bearings and rings as well



assembly will be done by me to save some $$$

after you get it back from hot tanking, take a can of WD-40 with block to a car wash. Set engine on the rear where the trans would bolt up, put a few boards or something to keep it off the ground.
Take the can of WD-40 and spray from top to bottom on the inside of engine and spray it downward with wd-40. This will pull out most if not all the micro specks of metallic's out of the pores of the casings.
Once you've got most or all the metallic's out of the pores. Wash it out with high pressure car wash, no soap, please. Just HOT wash or rinse.
The metal/casting will get a look of the metal lightly rusting, don't worry, by the time you get it home and put together, it's going to get oiled.

OR

you can just skip the car wash rinse and use a lint free cloth and just dap up the excess wd-40. Which you can do this in your garage.

wouldnt the hot tank get all of the debris out?

draker wrote:Store that crank on the end. Tis bad to lay em down.

will do!

You would think so but I've had blocks hot tanked and washed it down with the wd-40 and could see the small particles of metals. I would suggest wd-40 ing it. These fine metal pieces will wear out the bearings faster, not in a few days but down the road.

Since a can of wd-40 is a hell of a lot cheaper then going through dealing with the machine shop and a lawyer if the engine takes a dump, it's a safe way to avoid the problems and project delays.


good advise on storing the crank, always on it's end. Always, unless ya got a crank cradle. Who has one of them ? prob no one.

mkay, a Wd-40 shower it will get