New World Datsuns...

flatcat19 wrote:Mine sheard itself off because the bolt was thinner than the hole.

I'm nowhere near the idler.

I only say again because of what I found from previous owner.
This is my first broken bolt since changing to IR alt.

Mine sheared off also, and I wasn't all that close to the idler either, but my engine was shifting a couple inches towards the passenger side to hit the idler arm top, but it did shift that far, and yours does to if you are slamming gears or hauling heavy loads.
I sheared 4 or 5 of them off before I had to make a bracket that lowered the alt. away from that upper hose so I could tilt the alt in towards the engine.
You can see how thick my bracket is, plus I doubled it up where the bolts are to move the lower part of the alt. away from the block, I did everything I could to get the alt. casing closer to the block so I could use the shortest belt possible.
Mine sheared off so many times that I drilled the holes out holding the alt. on so I could use larger bolts.

My alt is like a half inch away from the block.
I can fit my fist between the idler and alt, no problem.



So, in the ongoing saga of Fuck This Shit...
Water pump. Installed. Rubbing on the inside of the motor!




Going to take pump to work and grind fins down.

WTF Datsun! Don't you want to be driven!?



Stressing out a bit. First car show of the year for our area is next weekend.
Grandpa wants both of us to go to it together.
Argh!

The more common fix to big body alternators in the trucks is to use a ZX coolant flange. It kicks the hose further back allowing room for the alt to rotate higher.

Buy some high grade bolts and be done with it.

Metal prop water pump? Wonder if it got pressed on far enough.

It was a cast impeller pump. I got it filed down and installed.

Also customized my alt and mount. Drilled out both for big bolts. Big lock washers and nuts. Fucker is secured.

Radiator is at the radiator shop getting tanked and tested.




Drove truck out of garage tonight to side yard. Will flush block and heater tomorrow. Radiator back by Wednesday.

So...guys....

Freshly boiled radiator, new thermostat w/hole, new water pump, flushed block, flushed heater core, fresh 50/50 antifreeze...still overheats.


Overheats worse than before. I used to be able to lay hands on the radiator for minutes. Now it's burning fucking hot.


Normal temp when I took off on my initial drive. Pegged the second I took off.

Let sit for a minute, 75% hot.


I think I know what you guys will say...fuck.

If the radiator is hot the water is circulating.
Are the radiator hoses both perfectly round from one end to the other?
When you rev the engine, does the lower radiator hose collapse at the bend?

Fresh hoses.


I don't know about the collapse. I'm 99.9% sure water is circulating

Car has been sitting for an hour. Top hose warm to hot. Lower hose close to room temp. Cylinder head hot as hell.

Pull the radiator cap off and see if the water is circulating, you should be able to see it flow past the fill neck.
You also can start it, rev it with one hand while you look at the lower hose, you need to make sure it's not collapsing.
I have had a blown head gasket that forced air into the water jacket, it did not make my engine overheat, but it did force water out of the filler neck on the radiator when I revved it.

When watching for collapse, cap on?

Water not geyser'ing outbof fill. Water is moving.

Lower hose does not collapse. Water is moving.

flatcat19 wrote:When watching for collapse, cap on?

Yes the cap should be on, that way the water pump can create a suction.
The only vehicle I ever had that ran hot was my Chevy truck, I was never able to fix it, not sure why it ran hot as it had an over sized radiator.
The only Datsun engine that I have had that ran hot was my LZ23 when it had that shity L16 thermostat housing without a bypass, but that was easily fixed by installing an L20b thermostat housing with a bypass, but it cooled fine at an idle with the L16 housing, I had issues when driving it.

So...hose doesn't collapse...water pump not working?

flatcat19 wrote:So...hose doesn't collapse...water pump not working?

I didn't say that, if you could see water moving in the radiator when the cap is off, then water is circulating.
Hose collapses happen at higher RPMs, so what I mean is that it would cool just fine sitting in the driveway, but when you tried to drive it it could overheat.
Do you have a stock fan or electric fan?
You still may need another water pump, if it was hitting when you installed it, well it may have been damaged somehow, or when you ground on it it may not be working good enough to cool the engine.

Stock fan.

Doesn't over heat at idle. The second I move it spikes.

Are you sure it is overheating, or are you going by the gauge?

Going by gauge. It's hot...I do not know real temp.

I'll bring home a non-contact thermometer tomorrow

The stock gauges are not always reliable, I had to change mine out last week as the fuel/temp gauges were not working properly.
Now my speedo isn't working correctly, it's always something, isn't it.