New World Datsuns...

I hate dieseling, and wont stand for it. I find dieseling is related to a couple of things.

1) Fuel mixture is too lean at idle

2)Dizzy is too advanced... I never figured why this happened, but my car would diesel all the time with advanced timing.

3)Octane level of gasoline is too low. But I wouldnt go to a higher octane to stop dieseling, but if you were pinging on hills and dieseling, higher octane would be something to look at.

The only Datsun I had that dieseled I just switched to a higher octane. Ran perfectly fine afterwards. It had a weber 32/36 on it.

i turn it off through dieselling as well now.
I got really used to it.
But damn. my mpg seems to be HORRIBLE. It seems like im getting around 12 and i feel like even dual su's that's a lot.
I recall Jacob sayin he got 24? I'm not sure.

but it's been all to good but my rear brake cylinder had a leak or something. I kept leaking brake fluid....

I got a new one and will put it on soon as well.
My front mk1 lip came too.

I just need to get my l20b, fender mirrors, hako wing, and I'll be happier than shit.

Thanks to everyone on this forum.

I love datsuns more than i imagined now. after driving them, every other car sucks.

Sus are finicky. Even if slightly rich they get bad mileage.

Laecaon wrote:Sus are finicky. Even if slightly rich they get bad mileage.

I should take em to a pro then probably.

I can tell they are slightly rich. I'm pretty sure of it.
Thanks jacob.

Thought you bought a UniSync?

check your brake shoes. if yo rear cylinder has been leaking, you will want to spray the drum down with brake clean and also the backing plate and springs etc, then put new shoes on. once they get saturated, if they did, they is no good. At least replace the shoes and clean the drum inside well if that stuff got brake fluid all up in it.

flatcat19 wrote:Thought you bought a UniSync?

i know and i don't know where the damn thing is.
I actually forgot until you brought it back up.

I'll be sure to check it out.

izzo wrote:check your brake shoes. if yo rear cylinder has been leaking, you will want to spray the drum down with brake clean and also the backing plate and springs etc, then put new shoes on. once they get saturated, if they did, they is no good. At least replace the shoes and clean the drum inside well if that stuff got brake fluid all up in it.

I'll check to see if i can replace the shoes but i need the car driving pretty soon first.
The shoes don't look warn down much either.

I was wondering how you put the drum brake cover on?

Mine isn't going on smoothly. well at all.
It's incredibly frustrating.

Only replace brake shoes if soaked in brake fluid.

Drums going back on...OK, listen and imagine carefully.
Place hands on shoes. One on each.
Rock them back and forth to center them.
Re-install drum.

If shoes are adjusted to tight-this would have ONLY happened if the screw was adjusted with the drum off-they will not go back on.

flatcat19 wrote:Only replace brake shoes if soaked in brake fluid.

Drums going back on...OK, listen and imagine carefully.
Place hands on shoes. One on each.
Rock them back and forth to center them.
Re-install drum.

If shoes are adjusted to tight-this would have ONLY happened if the screw was adjusted with the drum off-they will not go back on.

I ended up not knowing there's an adjustment screw on the back plate. I just had to unscrew that.
I got it on but I don't know where my damn unisync is.

I really need to get that to fix my mileage.

but im driving again and I love it.

Did you adjust your shoes back out when you got it on?

If you took the drums off-they should have slid right back on without adjustment.
Now your rear brakes are even more off.

flatcat19 wrote:Did you adjust your shoes back out when you got it on?

If you took the drums off-they should have slid right back on without adjustment.
Now your rear brakes are even more off.

Yes, i had taken pictures before and somehow the screw got twisted out but I readjusted them.
I counted threads to match it from before.

But thanks for the heads up.

I was showing a neighbor the uni-syn since im supposed to get it and he said that it won't work on su's?

I decided to cancel my order from summit because it's been 3 weeks and nothing so I'm going to autozone when I get money.

Is there a specific unisyn that works for su's?

I'm sure the one you had would have been fine.

If your neighbor knew what he was talking about with Datsuns you wouldn't be here, would ya?

wayno wrote:

thanks! i found another pic while i was looking through a guide. I feel like this is the pic from the guide too. haha

flatcat19 wrote:I'm sure the one you had would have been fine.

If your neighbor knew what he was talking about with Datsuns you wouldn't be here, would ya?

True. but he works on bmw's and mercedes at the shop he owns, not nissans/datsun.

but any help is helpful.

my breaks started squeaking i want to put an mk1 lip on my 510 but it doesnt look like it'll sit. and the middle seems to look like itll split no matter what...

wayno wrote:

thanks! i found another pic while i was looking through a guide. I feel like this is the pic from the guide too. haha

flatcat19 wrote:I'm sure the one you had would have been fine.

If your neighbor knew what he was talking about with Datsuns you wouldn't be here, would ya?

True. but he works on bmw's and mercedes at the shop he owns, not nissans/datsun.

but any help is helpful.

my breaks started squeaking i want to put an mk1 lip on my 510 but it doesnt look like it'll sit. and the middle seems to look like itll split no matter what...

the car has been good to me but yesterday my idle went up to around 1300 for no reason and when i start the car, nothing is happening....

So i wanted to get the carb running but im pretty sure my unisyn is not working because the ball isnt moving and i tried it on two cars to make sure it wasn't just mine.
I'll have to get another one but because I didn't want the day to go to waste, I lowered my rear the most it could go.

but it's worth nothing if the car doesn't move
i think I'll have to get them done professionally

when i start the car, It's just like the battery is dead but it's not... i'm assuming my starter is going bad.

the carbs are probably worn too but shit happens.

In the photo below you can see the disc the spring is resting against in the center, that disc has 6 nubs on it, the nubs are there for you to twist/turn the disc more open or closed, if the ball is not raising, it needs to be closed some, if the ball goes to the top and stays there, it needs to be opened a little.

All these types of tools are adjustable, and need to be set for your situation at that time, I am not saying that it has a set value, you just need to turn the disc so it moves about half way up before you start adjusting the carb.

I get that and i really tried on all the nubs open. I already took it back to autozone and the new one should be here tomorrow.
I'm just gonna have to get it around thursday because I've got work.

Close it all the way till the ball goes to the top, then open it slowly till it drops to the middle, once you find the sweet spot, it doesn't take much to change it a lot, maybe a quarter turn will either make it hit the top or the bottom, there is a sweet spot.
Also make sure there is no tape over any of the holes, there is one on the bottom of the tube, and one on the inside(carb side) of the velocity stack, if they put tape over the holes to keep dirt out, it will never work.