New World Datsuns...

Here's how I did the Alternator wiring: the thick wire goes from the plug to the "+" positive post on the alt. Then a thicker wire from that post to the positive side of the starter motor. The skinny wire goes to the white/red wire from your 510 guage cluster. You need to see the charge light come on, when the key is on, but it will turn off when the motor starts:

I got a TON of little stuff out of the way over the last few days. Motor, trans, and diff all have new fluids. The Datsun harness is back in the engine bay, had to Frankenstein the hell out of it to set it straight. I learned that crap harness + crap harness= decent harness. KA harness is still being slimmed down, but both harnesses fit through the firewall now, so I'm happy.

I should be trying to start it right now, but I can't figure out the thread pitch of the power terminals on my Walbro fuel pump. I know for sure they they aren't M4, but nowhere in town sells anything smaller. So for now, I'm stuck. I suppose I could use alligator clips, but I'd rather do it right the first time... Here is where the pump is mounted, for anyone wondering:




I ended up using both oem 240sx radiator hoses. Both needed a bit of trimming at both ends. They fit great and everything has plenty of clearance.





Here's my mint interior. Trail of wiring diagram tears I tell ya!

You dont have a Ace hardware nearby? Mine has a pretty decent selection of hardware.

Looking good over all! Could you shorten the bottom radiator hose? On the radiator side so it doesnt go so far back?

You're totally right. I called and asked to talk to the nut and bolt man. They have them all the way down to 1.6!

I might not make it today, but I'll try!

Okay! Wiring is done, but still in a completely temporary, wires everywhere sorta state. I was having trouble with my ignition switch, I still don't know what the switch is out of, but now it's getting power to the can am box just fine. This was the only way to get power with the key on and while cranking. Gotta say, it was really nice to see that thing turn on and do it's job.





It got dark shortly after so I didn't spend too much time trying to start it up, but so far I've got nothing. Gonna throw a charger on the battery in the morning and start checking things off the list. Pump primes the fuel rail fine, check. But that's all I have for now

I also want to get a new wire set since I'm sure the 6mm coil wire doesn't mesh well with the 8mm plug wires. Oh, and the O2 sensor would probably work better if it were actually in the exhaust stream. Since the factory O2 sensor location interferes with the steering box, I have it plugged, and the only other place to put it is the old EGR bung. Once I get a downpipe figured out I'll have a threaded boss welded onto it. The problem with that is it interferes with the 510 parking brake, so I'll also be pulling that assembly out before anything else. It isn't actually hooked up so I don't need it anyway. Will start looking into a trans tunnel mounted unit soon.

Figured out I'm not getting spark. Power makes it's way to the coil, but that's as far as it goes. In the morning I'm picking up a new coil along with plug wires.


Next time I check in I should also have the throttle pedal ready to accept a cable. Figured now is as good time to get that taken care of.





Fingers crossed

I have a weird rectangle relay looking box, the size of my thumb, a foot from the coil .... the main power for the coil goes from the CAN AM box to that relay thing, then to the coil. It has some other wires going to it too. I don't know what it is though.

There's 3 plugs on the coil: one bigger, one smaller, and a metal spade sticking out (which needs to be grounded with a female spade connector) mine is a constant ground and it works.

I knew that thing was for ground, but I didn't know it was the coil ground. I had it hooked up but decided to open it up to see if it corroded or something. It was full of a weird white goo. I'm not sure if it's some sort of dielectric grease or if something nasty got in there. I cleaned it up and ground to one of the wiper motor mount holes to be sure I had a good ground. Still nothing.






An edit to my last post: the power is not making it to the coil. The correct wires at the ecu get power, but it seems to be lost by the time it gets to the coil. Bad ground?

I took this pic for someone trying to run a stock tach ... but the circled wire is the main coil power ... it's black and dark reddish purple

There's a thinner wire of the same color going to the ECU, but it's connected to the thicker (12ag?) wire going to the CAN AM box, then to the coil

Not gonna lie, that just threw me way off. My understanding was that pin 36 on the ecu is for coil power . That's all I have hooked up to the "Run 2" slot.

Btw, I understand that trying to help someone with electrical over the internet isn't easy. I can only imagine how frustrated it would make me if I were the one helping. For that, I thank you.

The ECU isn't going to send that much power to the coil ... the CAN-AM box sends the power to the coil. That blk/red 12ag wire goes from the CAN AM box towards the ECU, then it splits into 2 wires: one 18ag to the ECU and one 12ag to the coil. Does that make sense? All 3 wires are connected, but you want the thicker wires at the CAN AM box and the coil. I don't mind helping. I literally re-wired every wire in the last few months, so it's still fresh in my mind.

Now that I have spark, I was able to get it to turn over and quickly die (1-2 seconds) with starting fluid.


After I cleared that up I still wasn't getting any fuel, I checked the ECU codes and it's throwing codes 11 and 12. Bad MAF and CAS.


FML

I'm having a hard time believing both the MAF and CPS (not CAS) are both bad. Going to pull a bunch of the plastic wire wrap (not OEM) today to check that nothing is hiding... Electrical is my least favorite thing, but it seems like I'm always fixing something in that department, rarely by my own doing.

There's 3 wires going to a s13 MAF: one power, one ground, and a sending wire. If you lightly blow into the MAF, the sending wire voltage should jump a fraction of a volt. I thought mine was bad, but it was a bad ECU instead. You could see if it will run longer with the MAF unplugged from the harness. It wont run good, but it might run for more than 3 seconds. That's what mine was doing when the ECU was bad.

Where is the CPS? ... is it the knock sensor?

CPS is the crank position sensor in the dizzy. The bad MAF seems to be intermittent.

I wouldn't be surprised if the ECU and MAF are both bad because they sat in a box for a couple years in a garage before I got it. But the CPS, I don't see why it would be bad. I've opened the ECU case and everything looks great to me. Then again that might not be true.

Some guy on the510realm saw this blue stuff in his ECU .. and we think his ECU is bad, causing it to die after 5 seconds unless the MAF is unplugged

Hmmm, I didn't see anything like that in there. I was expecting something like that to be black/charred.

Never mind, I do have the blue marks in the same spot.


Is that really burned? Is the coating heat sensitive or something? I plugged the ecu back in and it's throwing another code. Now it's got code 11, 12, 21, and 34. Every time I plug it back in it gets another code.

Fucking Nissans

I have rarely heard of a KA swap going right first time.

When you get it all figured out though...Holy hell.