New World Datsuns...

wayno wrote:Close it all the way till the ball goes to the top, then open it slowly till it drops to the middle, once you find the sweet spot, it doesn't take much to change it a lot, maybe a quarter turn will either make it hit the top or the bottom, there is a sweet spot.
Also make sure there is no tape over any of the holes, there is one on the bottom of the tube, and one on the inside(carb side) of the velocity stack, if they put tape over the holes to keep dirt out, it will never work.

Thanks. Well i decided to mess with my carbs a bit and the high idle is gone.
I kind of have the idea and it sounds pretty good so im like praying my gas mileage improves.

how bad will mileage be if the carbs are worn?

I'm excited to go pick up my unisyn and get it doneee.

Thanks wayno!

datmo wrote:

wayno wrote:Close it all the way till the ball goes to the top, then open it slowly till it drops to the middle, once you find the sweet spot, it doesn't take much to change it a lot, maybe a quarter turn will either make it hit the top or the bottom, there is a sweet spot.
Also make sure there is no tape over any of the holes, there is one on the bottom of the tube, and one on the inside(carb side) of the velocity stack, if they put tape over the holes to keep dirt out, it will never work.

Thanks. Well i decided to mess with my carbs a bit and the high idle is gone.
I kind of have the idea and it sounds pretty good so im like praying my gas mileage improves.

how bad will mileage be if the carbs are worn?

I'm excited to go pick up my unisyn and get it doneee.

Thanks wayno!

I don't know, there are lots of reasons why you get bad mileage, to rich a mixture, lead foot, driving just in the city, idling a lot, I don't actually get that good of mileage either, but I do mostly city driving, and I tow a trailer 90 percent of the time.
Do you have more power than your weber had?

wayno wrote:

datmo wrote:

wayno wrote:Close it all the way till the ball goes to the top, then open it slowly till it drops to the middle, once you find the sweet spot, it doesn't take much to change it a lot, maybe a quarter turn will either make it hit the top or the bottom, there is a sweet spot.
Also make sure there is no tape over any of the holes, there is one on the bottom of the tube, and one on the inside(carb side) of the velocity stack, if they put tape over the holes to keep dirt out, it will never work.

Thanks. Well i decided to mess with my carbs a bit and the high idle is gone.
I kind of have the idea and it sounds pretty good so im like praying my gas mileage improves.

how bad will mileage be if the carbs are worn?

I'm excited to go pick up my unisyn and get it doneee.

Thanks wayno!

I don't know, there are lots of reasons why you get bad mileage, to rich a mixture, lead foot, driving just in the city, idling a lot, I don't actually get that good of mileage either, but I do mostly city driving, and I tow a trailer 90 percent of the time.
Do you have more power than your weber had?

I never got to really put my weber to better lengths, i wouldn't be able to really tell if they're actually more powerful.

I've been thinking that I could return to my single and I'd do fine.

I'll save up for a better set like webers or something.

What do you guys think?

single weber 32/34 i believe it was or dual su's?

I do need gas efficiency but I lovveee the power.

I also thought the dual su's were really efficient but the more i read, the more i see people have trouble with them.
But that could be a bunch of variables and that's not the carbs to blame.

I'm also gonna see how it turns out with how i tuned my carbs yesterday.
They sound pretty damn well.

I have never had a weber with as much power as dual SUs, but I have never had a new weber either, so I wouldn't know, I do have a weber I rebuilt on my 520 project, as far as I am concerned, it's a piece of shit, as I have had dual SUs on this engine, and it had way more power than it has now on a much heavier rig.
I think I said this before, when you look down the throats of the carbs while it is running, both the pistons should be open/raise the same amount at an idle, if one is higher than the other, they are not in sync, and I would turn the screws on top of the carbs I have marked in the photo below, these screws are what you turn to sync the carbs, it only takes a little to make a big difference, a half turn is a lot.

Ok I have edited another photo, this one has 3 places I have marked with a white square also, the upper highlighted square on the back/right carb in photo is showing the screw used to make both carbs move at the same time when you press on the gas pedal, you adjust this by twisting the throttle shaft by the firewall and make sure that both carb shafts move at the same time, the other 2 lower highlighted squares are showing the fuel mixture nuts on the bottom of the carbs, these are how you adjust the fuel mixture(lean/rich), the leaner you run the engine, the harder it will be to start cold without a choke.

Here are a couple photos of my spark plugs, the first one is the set I took out yesterday, I believe that the carbs might have been a little lean, but I have both carbs about the same as they all look the same.

The next photo is a little more to my liking, the plugs are not as white, but they are not black either, you can see in the photo that the 2 outside plugs are a little darker, they were a little richer than the 2 inside plugs.

If your plugs are black, you are to rich, and as I said before, the leaner the carbs are, the harder it is to start the engine when it is cold without a choke.

wayno wrote:I have never had a weber with as much power as dual SUs, but I have never had a new weber either, so I wouldn't know, I do have a weber I rebuilt on my 520 project, as far as I am concerned, it's a piece of shit, as I have had dual SUs on this engine, and it had way more power than it has now on a much heavier rig.
I think I said this before, when you look down the throats of the carbs while it is running, both the pistons should be open/raise the same amount at an idle, if one is higher than the other, they are not in sync, and I would turn the screws on top of the carbs I have marked in the photo below, these screws are what you turn to sync the carbs, it only takes a little to make a big difference, a half turn is a lot.

Ok I have edited another photo, this one has 3 places I have marked with a white square also, the upper highlighted square on the back/right carb in photo is showing the screw used to make both carbs move at the same time when you press on the gas pedal, you adjust this by twisting the throttle shaft by the firewall and make sure that both carb shafts move at the same time, the other 2 lower highlighted squares are showing the fuel mixture nuts on the bottom of the carbs, these are how you adjust the fuel mixture(lean/rich), the leaner you run the engine, the harder it will be to start cold without a choke.

Here are a couple photos of my spark plugs, the first one is the set I took out yesterday, I believe that the carbs might have been a little lean, but I have both carbs about the same as they all look the same.

The next photo is a little more to my liking, the plugs are not as white, but they are not black either, you can see in the photo that the 2 outside plugs are a little darker, they were a little richer than the 2 inside plugs.

If your plugs are black, you are to rich, and as I said before, the leaner the carbs are, the harder it is to start the engine when it is cold without a choke.

This is the best thing that anyone could have done for me.
thanks so much wayno.
I picked up my unisyn today from autozone and I got it working all good. I haven't seen what my gas mileage is yet because i didnt drive much but I'm sure it will improve.

I also will try and check my spark plugs soon. but it's running MUCH better and drives much better

Your Welcome, I am happy it is running better.
Chiltons 1961-72 repair and tune-up guide, part#5790
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chiltons-Datsun ... 58a249d371
It's only $12.00

Ey guys, I was wondering if anyone that use an mk1 lip had the split in the middle or was it connected?
Mine is split and I'm questioning if i did it wrong or not.

I've seen a couple of them and they're all split but I'm not completely sure.

I was also looking into some racing seats but I use my backseat a lot and didn't want to put a roll bar in to run a harness.

Anyone see a corbeau seat ran with a 3 point?
I'm trying to find a pic but can't find much.

I'm sure it either looks stupid or just good enough to get by.

It may seem poserish and all but if it suits me for my car, why not.

I've changed my mind. I decided to put money into mechanics of the c ar rather aesthetics for now.
I hope by the end of around spring break to have a ka24de inside of my 510.

I have some big plans such as a turbo, short shifter, headers, a decent exhaust but I gotta take it one step at a time.

I was doing research and I talked to skib and there didn't seem to be that many issues for the swap besides a new sway bar, xmember, and drive shaft.
I can buy the xmember and hopefully if I find a sway bar, that too. The driveshaft, I'm not sure if i could buy one already cut and what not for the ka swap.

Would you guys recommend me doing a ka swap if I can't weld or anything? I can cut but not weld or machine.

I'm sure I could figure out the wiring with the ka since they sell the can/am boxes on ratsun.

I also need to get a defroster but since the winter in california is already over, I'll be alright for now.
That's very important. got lucky it was a warm winter. Could hardly see out of my windows and if it iced it would have been much worse.

Don't forget.. you need to remove the battery tray. That's more cutting than welding.

My hunch would tell me.... you are going to need some help. If you have a local that could help you with the wiring and stuff.. then eh.. why not.

draker wrote:Don't forget.. you need to remove the battery tray. That's more cutting than welding.

My hunch would tell me.... you are going to need some help. If you have a local that could help you with the wiring and stuff.. then eh.. why not.

Out of all my research, I didnt read that I had to cut the tray.
I'm nervous as fuck about it because it'll be my first swap.

My worries is that I start and i'm not able to finish for a long time.
I'm willing to take a month on it.

I'm just not sure about how I'll get the driveshaft done since I don't wanna take it to a shop.

I've been reading more with the different pedal assembly and all that.

You HAVE to take the driveshaft to a shop.
You dont have to take out the battery tray, it just helps a ton.

Do you research. Do some more. Think of everything. Think about each category (fuel delivery, exhaust, blah). Buy as much as you can before you take your car off the road. This should eliminate down time.

You will need to find someone to flip your crossmember, and then you have a swaybar issue.

Wiring will need a lot of attention paid to it.

Laecaon wrote:You HAVE to take the driveshaft to a shop.
You dont have to take out the battery tray, it just helps a ton.

Do you research. Do some more. Think of everything. Think about each category (fuel delivery, exhaust, blah). Buy as much as you can before you take your car off the road. This should eliminate down time.

You will need to find someone to flip your crossmember, and then you have a swaybar issue.

Wiring will need a lot of attention paid to it.

I plan to do much more research.
That's what i thought. I read a couple builds and the battery trays were intact on some so i didn't see why people removed it but now I can see.
I was reading that people sell custom sway bars? I was looking on ratsun and didn't find much.

I just don't know where to source all the parts.

The xmember you can buy online for the swaps so I don't mind doing that.
the mounts on the other hand i have to look more.

I'll do more research before asking too many questions. haha.
but i did see that couple of swaps messed with the steering column?

maybe not every guide mentioned it that i read to take out the steering column??
I think it was specifically a mods on ratsun that he took his out but his was in a 620 so I'm not sure if there's a difference.

I'll def be doing as much research as possible.

Just read every KA swapped 510 thread you can find.

Write everything down. And start making your lists.

^^^^^This. A build thread that helped me alot was "Boaty" (Steve Boatman) on ratsun. That guy is very detail oriented. Lou knows him as well.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/33117 ... omsearch=1

McKinney Motorsports

http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/


BOOOOOOOM!

The more threads I read and builds I look into, I think that BEFORE I do a ka swap, I should do an l20b and see how I like it. I need to learn and understand much more before I do a ka.

My very first plan to get an l20b in the 510, even says on the first page i think, so why not follow through.

I think that with my experience, I should do an l20 rather than do a ka, get stuck on things I can't do, and have the car sit for much longer than I'd like.

I do plan to swap a ka in and reading all these builds got me even more hyped but because of my lack of experience and me wanting to complete the swap alone, I should probably do the l20.

I do want more power so I'll look into a set of mukuni's in the future.
I'll run with the su's for a bit and see how they go. The gas mileage on them is good which is why I don't want mukini's because I'll only be getting around 15-20.

I also want to repaint my engine bay and clean up a ton of junk in there.
I know it's more important to get the car performing well rather than looking cool.
but with that said was thinking white with a chrome valve cover. But I'm not sure about that yet.
Would spray paint stick or would it get too hot in the engine bay?

Taterhead wrote:^^^^^This. A build thread that helped me alot was "Boaty" (Steve Boatman) on ratsun. That guy is very detail oriented. Lou knows him as well.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/33117 ... omsearch=1

Steve has taken the level of detail to the next level, Polishing he does is unreal.
He is in Grants Pass Oregon.
Good guy

Been reading more builds.
I was wondering if anyone has any ideas what tranny's bolt to l20b. i saw a couple builds where they had a 5 spd off a z i believe it was?
They mentioned that it sits tilted? is it enough that i need to cut my tranny hole?

now that i think of it, may be in my build thread on ratsun.

I'm trying to figure out all the parts i need for the swap and so far, I need a set of dual mukuni's which i'll have to leanr how to tune since they're much different.
a 5spd. and the l20b. i needed some tools like a cherry picker and all that but i've got it figured out.

There is a difference between a Z-cars trans and a Z-motors trans.

With a Z-motors trans a bellhousing swap will be needed.
A Z or ZX car with the L6 motor's transmission will bolt to your existing L. Some mods may be needed.



I say pass the L20B and man up.
Get after that KA. (One of the reasons why I told you to buy a Hardbody. *hint, hint*)