New World Datsuns...

flatcat19 wrote:There is a difference between a Z-cars trans and a Z-motors trans.

With a Z-motors trans a bellhousing swap will be needed.
A Z or ZX car with the L6 motor's transmission will bolt to your existing L. Some mods may be needed.



I say pass the L20B and man up.
Get after that KA. (One of the reasons why I told you to buy a Hardbody. *hint, hint*)

i really considered the ka but with my experience, I won't know enough to do it alone and i don't have the confidence to complete it.
I know it sounds dumb but if im confident, i'm sure even if i get stuck, i'll keep motive to push through.

yes, the ka is a better swap since it is fuel injected and powerful. but what i can do without having my daily sit for too long is the l20b. with my experience, the ka could take months like i've heard/seen or just a couple weekends.

the l20 on the other hand should but just one weekend hopefully.

i was also thinking of saving up 3 grand and paying some one to do the swap but then i think it takes away all the pride i have in the car doing things myself.
no matter what, in the future, I will do my own ka swap successfully. I think when i get another daily, it'll happen but that's in years.

thanks. i'll have to look for a 5 spd from an l6 motor.

also, i have a random oil leak that I'll look into this weekend.
I also have my carbs going off sync again but it'll be fixed in a few tomorrow with my unisync and all.

i put 20 straight oil as well in my car.
afterwards, i realized that's too thick?

live and learn.

The L20b was a great upgrade for me, but I likely would not have been near as happy with it if I had been using a downdraft carb, but with SUs it was an easy to be happy.
That said, if you have a thirst for power, your likely never going to be happy with anything except some exotic engine with 200+hp, I can tell you this, I had a thirst for power when I was young, and it got satisfied by owning a 1965 Chevy Nova with a BUILT 350, it had 10.5 to 1 CR, and the gas was gas back then, not this crap they are passing off for gas now.
I think I have said this before, but this engine was so built that it was dangerous to drive when wet out, if you gave it to much gas in any gear it would spin out when wet outside, I also could not let off the gas to fast either, the rear wheels would just go to idle, even though I was going 40mph, but when it was dry out, no one could touch me, but 4 runs down the 1/4 mile, and I needed a gas station soon.
My sister got in the car for a ride one day, she never got in it again, and her boyfriend had a really fast GTO.
The thirst for power is unquenchable, you always want more, if you want to go fast, learn how to skydive, it's safer with less legal hassles.

I'll be running su's with the swap for awhile then I'll switch IF i'm not happy with them or want more power out of it.

I've been so busy and finals this week and all this shit.

I hope to actually do research and see what i need exactly for the l20b swap.
I'm really excited about it and i have a new scheme for my engine bay with some colors that'll pop.

I also want a 5 spd. so the whole swap will be on hold by the time I have enough money to purchase it all.

Just remember

Functionality > aesthetics

Taterhead wrote:Just remember

Functionality > aesthetics

I don't plan to make any aesthetic changes to the car besides paint my engine bay.

I'm all function right now

Here's some pics of me and the crew i started up, (moonspeed) and some pics of my car.
I do drive it daily and love it. Thanks for all the tips and answering my repetitive questions.

expect more of them although i'll do as much research as i can before my swap.

I got some shitty android so don't expect much.

Car looks great, datmo.

It sure does look great datmo!

flatcat19 wrote:Car looks great, datmo.

510freak wrote:It sure does look great datmo!

Thanks guys/ I was wondering if any of you have heard of those clear valve covers being created for 510's?

I thought they'd be kind of cool but not sure how they look in person.
I'm also looking at buying a new start since mine is out.
Not sure if i should get a rebuild or a new one.

Gear reduction starter maybe?

draker wrote:Gear reduction starter maybe?

what's that?

Eh dont bother. Its a starter that has more torque, but usually turns a little slower. Useful on High Compression motors, or larger motors in general.

Just thinking of junk yard finds. It would start the car.. that's the point.

Laecaon wrote:Eh dont bother. Its a starter that has more torque, but usually turns a little slower. Useful on High Compression motors, or larger motors in general.

i disagree, ill take a gear reduction starter on all my Lmotors. and maybe its just me but they seem to turn faster.....

You hear the starter turning faster, but remember there is a gear reduction. So its turning the motor at a fraction of that speed.

Yea, I've heard enough of them, and it seems to almost make it harder to start. Definitely sounds slower, and engine doesn't seem to catch as quickly.

I did buy a new starter for $35 from rock auto and put it in today. Sounds completely different.
Happy about it.

tomorrow I got a shoot with my yearbook which is pretty close to be in my yearbook. haha.

If any of you know ken takahashi, me and my crew got to meet him and he's given us the opportunity to restore his 68 toyotacrown!
We're driving it to my friends house friday and I'm responsible for suspension and interior.

He's paying for all of it so I was considering a wilwood conversion all around but I'm not sure they have sets for crowns and I can't find any info on them.
Also some nice clean auto bahns.

Also, I don't have a good pic but these headers aren't stock if I'm mistaken, does anyone know what they are?
Stock seem skinnier.

Just a cheap after market header. The stock unit flows better, if you look at the collector the crush the pipes down quite a bit.
And they crack out aften.

They are likely shorty headers from topend performance, I daily drive mine and I generally only get about 3 to 5 years out of them before they need repaired, and then usually get another 3 years, they are noisy also.
You live in a dryer climate, you might get a little longer out of them, I would be on the lookout for an L16 exhaust manifold and the head pipe for a future replacement that is inevitable.