New World Datsuns...

I have a 720 alternator in it the same as all my other trucks and the wipers work just fine on them, there is something else going on, could be a bad ground connection at where the ground wire plugs into the harness.

I thought my wagon had a bad motor when I first got it. Turned out to be stiff/rusty transmissions. Cleaned and lubed and the wipes worked great.

So I drove this to the mall yesterday to go to Radio Shack which is not there anymore, when I went out to go back home the battery was dead, so I rolled it and started it that way and made it home(getting dark without headlights), I put the charger on it(slow charge/2amp) and it charged higher than any battery I have ever seen, but the charger is a smart charger and this morning it was fully charged and there were no sparks when I removed the clips from the battery.
I watched the volt meter all the way home, it went from 9 volts to around 11 volts on the way home, nothing else was wrong, after finishing the work truck I started this one and it was not charging, so I fiddled with the wires on the alternator without positive results, I was looking down there dreading having to remove everything to get that alternator out of there when I touched the belt, I have never in all my life seen a belt that loose, I cannot believe that the engine didn't overheat, I could not believe it didn't throw the belt, but I remember looking down there and seeing the fan turning, and the charge light did go out after revving it but it would not charge the battery, I tightened the belt and all id good now, it's putting out over 14 volts.
That engine should have over heated, I got real lucky.

Everyone loves an easy fix.

I can hardly believe it has been this long since I posted to this thread, 15 months.
I picked up these today, early 520 inner fender wells.







I can fix the holes now.





The guy contacted me as he seen in a thread that I was looking for a set, he cut them out for me and brought them to Portland to a job site he was working at and I picked them up from him today, he was selling the whole box but it is so hard to get rid of automobile sheet metal around here that I didn't want the whole thing, I got them for $125.00 and I am very happy.

This is what I have planned, it's almost there, a little more cutting, it kinda looks stock.

OK, so what I did was get it to fit the best I could, then I used 5 screws to hold it in place, then I thought why not just sew it into place with these screws that hold all sorts of stuff to the sheet metal in 720s, so that is what I did, only draw back was that I didn't measure when I put the 5 screws in because I was going to weld them shut, now I am thinking about just using seam sealer and holding them on with the screws.







It's not done yet, needs more screws, but this will do for now, I will do the other side when I feel like it, done for today.

I tried to do the ends in such a way as it looked proper, but I cut to far on the one end.

Definitely looks better than exposed frame!

I kinda look at it this way, this truck is a Frankenstein truck, there is nothing normal about it, so I figure I can sew them inner fenders in and if I feel like it in the future I can weld it into position and then weld the holes shut, right now I just feel like getting them in position fast, I might do the other one tomorrow if it don't rain too hard.

I think that looks pretty good myself. You could just make them look like Jess’ saddle bags and bedazzle rivet them in.

Well I got the other side cut out and installed, it started raining while I was taking the photos.











It's not done yet though, I have to buy some seam sealer, take them off and clean them where the seam sealer will be then put them back on, I will likely redo the screws holding the passenger side on and make them nice like the driver side, that side I measured and marked the spots for the screws.
I think it looks fine but I am bias, I just wanted them on the truck, I have been looking at them holes I cut for that notched frame for years, I was tired of looking at it a week after cutting the holes, but it had to be done to lower it like I did.

Looks good from here.

Thanks guys, it looks good to me also.
It appears I need some kind of tailgate inside cover also, if I really think about it I am sure I can figure out something.
Fact is I have been trying to figure out a way to put a cover on/over the box without drilling too many holes inside the box and drilling no holes on the top rails or on the outside of the box area, I kinda need a one piece cover.
I have been looking on craigslist for a long time but have not seen anything that looked modifiable looking at the photos in the ads, there are lots of covers for big trucks, but I just don't see a way to modify them without it looking goofy.

Are you looking for a hard cover or vinyl? I had a vinyl one years ago on a hardbody that I had to build. It came with aluminum frame pieces, hinges, the vinyl roll, and the little window strut things. I only had to drill where the hinges and struts went. I’m not sure if you can find one online like that now

The issue is that since I modified the dimensions of the box when I made a smooth side it is a one of a kind size, anything I get will have to be modified to fit.
I have seriously thought about trying to make a canopy type cover that would make it look like a wagon, but 510 wagons are not being parted out like they used to be, I even had one way back and wish I still had now considering how much I sold it for, I am positive I will pay more for a not so great 510 wagon rear top section with glass than I sold that whole wagon for.
Whatever I get for it will need to be modified to fit, that means it will have to be modifiable and still look like it was made that way.
I do not want snaps on the top rail or outside sheet metal, whatever I use needs to be connected on the inside box walls.

What I had should work perfectly for what you’re looking for then. The problem is I have no clue who I bought it from or what the name of it was since this was about 15 years ago. The aluminum frame was just L angled metal that I had to cut to length. And then I had to stretch the vinyl around it. Think of two pieces of angled L’s with vinyl sandwiched between them. Here’s a quick drawing to kind of explain it better. With as good as you are at fabricating stuff this should be a breeze.

Thankyou for the diagram above, it actually gave me an idea of a frame I could make with 3 cross braces(front/middle/back) with aluminum bow pieces.
It would not have 2 "L" shaped pieces, only one with a strip holding the cover on the inside outside so when it rests on the bed rails it will be padded and not scratch the paint.
My work is slowing down since I don't clean tile roofs anymore and since seeing the doctor Monday it doesn't appear I ever will again, so I will have time to make something, the only issue is I will have to stretch the material evenly which I am not really good at.
I wish I could find something aluminum that rolls in and out that is modifiable, but I have not seen one my bed length, they are all 6" short and I will not go look until I find one long enough.

I ended up putting a strip of that door casing foam (1 inch wide by a quarter inch thick that’s sticky on one side) on the aluminum strip to protect the bed paint.

Stretching the vinyl isn’t too bad, affix it on one end and start stretching it from the middle out. Like torquing a head.

I have installed soooo many bed covers. My favorite brand was Undercover, as they had the best mounting and easiest operation.

Besides a full hard cover tonneau, the tri-fold was my favorite. https://undercoverinfo.com/undercover-flex

^not that they will have anything for you. But as a good example.