New World Datsuns...

Blue lake would be cool. I dont really have a deadline... It is what it is. I would like it to be back on the road by the end of July, like 1 year from the crash...

garage door shaft loosely put up, springs on it not bolted or anything. New bearing plates on. Ready for tightening of the hardware and tensioning the springs. This is a water break, damn garage is so hot of there.

Edit (6:14pm): Cables tensioned with side pulleys; pulleys tightened to shaft. Now onto the springs (bolting to frame, tensioning, tightening to shaft).

Edit 2(6:40pm): Left spring bolted on (that was annoying), and spring tensioned to 8.5 turns (how many turns it was tensioned to originally). Now onto the right spring, just need to find the bolts...

Edit 3(7:00pm): Right spring bolted on (way easier than left), spring tensioned to 8.5 turns (again the same as original). And SUCCESS!!!!!!!


THE DOOR OPENS!!!! and its buttery smooth! better than before!

Good. Now go work on your car.

Laecaon » Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:58 am wrote:Things to do (likely to have loads more) to get car back on the road/finish what I have started:

-Finish wiring the door locks
-Hook up the tach wires
-Add clutch switch (Ordered)
-Assemble dash (Waiting on additional wiring)
-Place door card back on.
-Buff spook (Hmm, that didnt work...)
-clock the turn signal cancellors
-make new horn trace (need to order PCB)
-alignment (Schedule once the car is appropriate for the street)
-polish/paint last wheel (its on the car right now, that doesnt help...)
-finish grill
-paint inside of fender
-install Valence
-install fender
-install hood
-clean up wiring
-clean and install grill trim
-find plastic piece for headlight alignment (needed to mount 1 highbeam)
-install grill
-install hood trim
-touch up any bare metal
-re do a bunch of things that annoy me
-fix garage
-figure out my front turn signals (read, Im not going to run amber lenses but clear are NLA)(Almost about to make a Mouser order...)
-mount spook

and thats it since this is just a list to get the car back on the road. Dont worry, I still have many many ideas to execute on this car.

Picture of old garage door bearing plate, and then the new:



Turn signal cancellors, The Momo hub is intended for a S30, not a 510. The turn signal cancellors are 90 degrees different. I cut them off, and JB welded them back into location...

Stock:


Cut:


Glued:




Grill is painted:







Ordered a second brake light switch to use as a clutch switch... I never liked the DZ start connected to the brake switch...

I have been working on an idea for my turn signals, about to order a bunch of parts for those... would be different...

Im not too concerned about my horns right now, I dont even have horns on the car, but I want them...


And I laid my driver fender in the grass Saturday. Painted the inside.... And WTF, the sun made the fender hot enough to make the paint soft and the paint now has a bunch of nicks from the grass... sigh.

Ok, made another order at Mouser...

resistors, caps, diodes, regulators, and some 555 timers. Also 100 Amber LEDs... these are meant for automotive lighting. And I also though in some of those female tab receptacles with the locking tab that keeps them in the housing.

I posted a circuit some pages ago. That is something I have been working on for awhile. I think I figured it out and feel alright with everything I have picked. The project is LED lighting on the car. And not just buying LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com. No, I am making my own arrays. I am also making the circuit to control whether the LEDs are on at 50% power or 100% power (either parking lights or turnsignals). I am starting with the front of the car for now, but I will make my way to the tail lights. Why? because its different, and I can do it, and I dont think it will subtract from the car being a 510 at all.

Laecaon » Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:38 pm wrote:Ok, made another order at Mouser...

resistors, caps, diodes, regulators, and some 555 timers. Also 100 Amber LEDs... these are meant for automotive lighting. And I also though in some of those female tab receptacles with the locking tab that keeps them in the housing.

I posted a circuit some pages ago. That is something I have been working on for awhile. I think I figured it out and feel alright with everything I have picked. The project is LED lighting on the car. And not just buying LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com. No, I am making my own arrays. I am also making the circuit to control whether the LEDs are on at 50% power or 100% power (either parking lights or turnsignals). I am starting with the front of the car for now, but I will make my way to the tail lights. Why? because its different, and I can do it, and I dont think it will subtract from the car being a 510 at all.

Because you can!

Doin some work again. Welder now has gas. So I got to thinking, I need to stitch weld the engine bay. Its been in a crash, its 40 years old, it may be fatigued. Might as well. So we started on that...






Also got the clutch switch in. Drilled out the nut for the clutch stopper to 3/8th (i Didnt have a stopper anyways...), ran a tap through it. Now I has clutch switch. No idea on height as my MCs are floating in the engine bay at current because of above. Now to just tap into the brake switch for power, and tada!

Sweet sauce boss. Any pics of the welds?

I can get some. What I do know is, mig helps a ton welding sheet metal. like you can actually lay a bead, and not blow through.

Laecaon » Sun Jul 27, 2014 2:33 pm wrote:I can get some. What I do know is, mig helps a ton welding sheet metal. like you can actually lay a bead, and not blow through.

Yes sir! Love my wire feed! I just run flux, gas is better/easier tho!

Stitch welding helps alot, try to keep em an inch long or less and 2 inches apart from each other. Theory being a full weld will brak, or can break, but breaking 3 welds is tough.

Welding is done. I am happy. Derek is happy. Now time to figure out what else I need to do...

Wow, looks great.

FINALLY! Figured out my LED dimming. Gave me a head scratcher for a moment, Turned out to be the wrong component.

Today I learned to wear a long sleeve when grinding in tight quarters. Red spots everywhere!

Grinded down all but 2 of the seam welds (hard to get to with a 4.5" grinder). Also filled a bunch of holes in the engine bay, holy crap mig is way easier and faster than flux core. I missed one hole though. argh. Need to pick up some coarser sand paper to knock down some stuff that the grinder cant get to. Then its onto a final sanding for primer. Then its seam sealer/bondo (im not planning on using much). Then I think another coat of rattle can primer. At the same time I need to work on the wheel wells. Same stuff really. Finally when everything is ready, quick wetsand, and an epoxy primer high build. Wet sand that to probably 400/600. And paint. Paint, I decided on Leguna Seca blue for the engine bay. Havent bought it yet... Engine bays are a lot of work.

Before:




After:




Welds flapper disced down:


Deleted the spot for the old hood prop:


And the engine bay how it sits.


Seam sealer and Primer. For some reason, HoK was the cheapest I could find...

Looks great!


I need a welder horribly!

Does does

And you do Keith

Everybody needs a welder.

And a plasma cutter.. but welder first.

Tried to do something to the car today. Thought to myself, well I could do a little wiring or something. Connecting my new clutch slave, I checked a couple of connections with the multimeter. Hmm that is odd, both the wires on the brake switch are connected to battery power (well I don't have the battery in the car, but the wire at the ignition switch that is the direct battery wire). And then I realized that the battery power was connected to ground, and it was super low resistance, like a direct short. So I proceeded to tear apart the wiring in the car. Finally narrowed it down to the wire which powered the clock/radio/domelights... Finally tracked it down to the rear tail light harness. Oh the rear dome light is grouned, but the hatch is shut... oh yea I grounded the 2 dome lights together. So um yea, shut both front doors, battery is no longer grounded. Damnit!!!! I was chasing my rear dome light grounding out!!! That was a waste of time. Bleh. Maybe I need some parts therapy.