New World Datsuns...

Just dropped the driveshaft off, it should be done in the morning

That's quick turnaround. Who did you use?

Just a local welder/machinist. Same guy that did my crossmember. I'll still need to have it balanced somewhere else, but when I'm only paying half an hour worth of his shop time, I'm okay with that.

He may or may not have meant to say Monday morning... I did find it odd that he'd be working on a Saturday...

Oh well, it's given me more time to get stuff done.
The interior is all put together, minus the carpet and door panels. Windows are clean, brake lights work, for some reason the headlights come on when I plug in the relay, horn works although it sounds OLD, heater works, electric fan is hooked up to a switch until I get the adjustable controller, hood is on and closes fine, ride height is set. I tried washing it, but it still looks the same. Like they say, can't polish a turd! Well, at the center of this turd is a cherry, and it's damn tasty. I did find a vacuum leak from the gallery that runs under the throttle body, but only when I put ear muffs on. The harbor freight ones do a decent job of blocking the lower frequencies, but do nothing for the higher frequencies.

I did get some more glamour shots since photos of all this are kinda boring...

Looks good. Getting closer!

Did someone say close?
https://youtu.be/zV7E7NuKyWI

That was just about a 2 mile drive. I cut it short because the rubber hose that connects to the heater valve started leaking. I went back home and tightened the hose clamp down more. After another short drive all seems well with that. It sounds incredible when down shifting with only a header. Way too loud to drive much more than I did

I got the downpipe in the mail, but I'm still waiting on the header. Clearance seemed good with the oem header, but I won't know anything until I fit the 4-1 tubular EBay short header.

My ride height in the rear needs to come down .5" and the front needs to come up the same. I didn't realize how ridiculous it looks until I saw the video.

My alignment is off, again. I forgot I replaced all the steering components a few months ago while the car was down. I'll get that taken care of after I set the ride height in stone. I've also been thinking about putting some tires on the 15x7's the car came with. Probably a 205/50/15, but that's still a long way off.

I say 1 inch down in the back.

You sir, made quick work of this car. Great job!

^ That.

Thanks, guys.

Car runs and idles fantastic. It even revs fine in neutral (with no load?), but not out on the road. Anything more than half throttle and it bogs down immediately before catching back up with itself. The first place I'm going to look is at the fuel pressure. No codes in the ECU BTW.
Nicoclub has a big thread about this sort of issue, so that will be a great resource.

I got my old shift boot fitted with a big rubber mallet to make it fit the tunnel in it's new spot. I could feel the exhaust coming straight up through the shifter hole and I didn't like it. I read somewhere about stuffing foam under the shift boot to help with some noise so I think I'll try that also.

I want to do everything I can to keep this car quiet and comfortable. My downpipe is 3" at the collector, and drops down to 2.75" at the other end. If I can find someone to enlarge the crossmember hole while it's still on the car, I'll go with 2.5" from the cat back, if not I'll go with 2.25". Not that I'll have a cat, but ya know...

If I had a lift I would do it. But laying on your back welding sucks.

I think you need "some" exhaust to have any power ... also check your firing order, my KA ran and drove with the wrong firing order

I have 2.5" exhaust from the header back, with a resonator and magnaflow muffler, and it's almost too loud to be a sleeper. It has way more power now than it did with just a header and a few feet of pipe to under my seat.

Hmm, thanks, Indy. I'll see if things improve after the downpipe is fitted, though it's only an additional 36" or so.

I'm getting ready to hook up the adjustable temp fan controller and I'm wondering if there's anything wrong with using the CAN AM box for switched 12V+ to energize the relay. I don't see why there would be a problem, but I can never be too sure....

Relays take no power to switch on. Just don't use it as the power feed too.

Sweet, I got that taken care of.


My header should be here tomorrow so I went ahead and took the old one off.


Overall, it's starting to clean up.

And got the rear door panels installed. No ashtrays yet, just need to find some good screws.

OOO, the lower position rear door handles. I converted my 510 to those. I liked the arm position better.

Plus the they are 510 door handles with the chrome strip.. I paid a premium for two if those damn things. Very nice.

Hmmm, I wasn't aware of there being two positions for the door release, Jacob. Here's the front passenger door as well:

Also, I got lucky with having 3 out of the 4 door release handles included with the car. A while back I found an Ebay auction for a bunch of miscellaneous 510 parts. I saw that the one and only door release I needed was included. I submitted a super low ball offer of $10 for just the door opener and they accepted!

OEM S13 4-2 header on the left, aftermarket S14 4-1 on the right. The O2 sensor location is still unusable due to the steering box, but I made an extension wire so it can be placed in the downpipe. I also had to use a universal sensor from Bosch (P/N 11027) because the S13 O2 sensor has 22mm threads versus the S14 18mm threads. I think it was the cheapest O2 sensor I've ever had to buy at $19.99

In this photo of the downpipe you can see where the O2 sensor will go.

Here's the fit, the header flange still needs to be cut off and angled more towards the trans tunnel. the down pipe and header are both connected in the photo. I'm going to start it up today to see how it sounds. I'm expecting a big change in tone, probably not for the better.

The flex section of the downpipe is very handy! But I'm wondering how good of a seal can you expect out of a flex pipe?

There adapters for 02 sensors that are L shaped.

I think k you will be better off trying to get that sensor as close to original position as possible.

Sensing stoich is super important to your fuel injected dreams.