New World Datsuns...

Thanks for the link, they just make pre-made existing model sizes.
There is nothing on CL that I will inquire about today.

I said that...

But its all just basic aluminum channel with aluminum sided foam for the panels. Would be relatively easy to make.

It looks so much better with the new to me inner fenders that I don't care as much about hiding it now.
I would like something that kept it dry inside, that is why I mentioned a wagon top, but that is just another major project.
Since the weather got better I have not even drove this truck, I would rather drive the 521 kingcab, but I always had it covered because the windshield gasket leaks, need to fix that issue while it is dry outside.

Yes I know you mentioned that about the covers, I was just more or less being clear about why I was not chasing that, they are kinda expensive also, but I would not have an issue with that if I could order it by size.
My box inner dimensions are 69"L X 53"W, but I want the cover to be 72"L X 56"W, the reason is to try and keep the rain/water out of the inside of the box instead of it just sitting inside under the cover rusting everything.

This ebay seller in Thailand is using a photo of my primed 520 ute to sell his bumperettes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEE ... 2773365783

Email him for your royalty check

wayno wrote: ↑Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:34 pm This ebay seller in Thailand is using a photo of my primed 520 ute to sell his bumperettes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEE ... 2773365783

And the 521 has no rear bumper. That's advertising genius.

What is funny is that the bumperettes on my 520 are OEM, they are not aftermarket parts.
I guess lots of people use random photos off the internet to sell their stuff, seems like they should be taking photos of their installed parts though.

Rotary510 had his car on a website and ebay for so long for the Carbon Flares.

I drove this truck the other day and made a terrible noise, it was the inner wall of the fender wells I added as that area was not attached to anything so it vibrated against the box bed where it was touching, it was very loud at certain RPMs.
So today I ran some errands and picked up some seam sealer and a 5 foot piece of 1 inch 90 degree angle iron, both pieces were 29 inches so I had 2 inches of scrap.
I screwed the 29" pieces on to the bed and put the inner fender sections over them after seam sealing them which I am not very good at, but it will keep the water from getting in from the top, but it does nothing about the water getting in from the bottom.
It took longer than I thought it would and it didn't get done the way I planned, I had to weld nuts on the back side of the angle iron, I wanted to do the same thing I did all around the rest of it but there was not room on the side because of the corrugated bed.













These last 2 photos are of the side where the small screws are with the nut on the back side holding them in, as I said I am not very good with seam sealer, I did way better on the other side but still got the sealer on the screws, I don't care because I will likely never remove then again.





I can always clean it up after the seam sealer dries, I still need to use POR15 on the rest of the bed like I did the sides, then I need to make the tailgate inside look better.

I test drove this today, no more noise caused by the fender well extensions, all is good again.

Today I pressure washed the bed of the truck with my rotating head tip which will take everything down to the bone by the second pass over the body, I had to go to the doctors once when it went thru my shoe into my foot, I went in to the doctor because I was afraid I had shoe in my foot.
Anyway once it dried I covered the inner fenders and bed floor with POR15, I just barely had enough POR15 to cover everything.











It really needs to be painted now or covered with something the same color.

Looks great!

Looking damn good Wayno. I like it

Thanks guys, basically I am trying to stop rust, at least on the top side.

I brushed on a half quart of oil based Rustoleum black paint I have had for a long time, I will likely buy another brush and use the other half quart on it tomorrow, it dries sort of a dull finish, I expected it to be a gloss finish, but I don't really care as long as it protects the POR15, I also forgot to read what it said about a second coat, maybe I have to wait a while, not sure if I can read the directions anymore as there are a lot of paint lines down the side of the can now.
I wish I could tell if it is coated good, with dull black on dull black it is difficult to tell.
That can has been around so looooong that the oil had separated from the paint, I had to stir it a long time and then use a drill with a coat hanger bent the best way to mix it real good, I believe I succeeded.

EDIT

I had to use gas to get the paint off the can to read the directions, but I can re-coat in 24 hours, that will likely finish the can off and i won't have it around for another 10+ years.

I put the second coat on late this morning, I used a small roller and stain pad I had this time instead of a brush.









I have just enough paint to do the chains left, just need to get motivated and go buy a brush.

Looks good from here.

I did some more work on the 520 this afternoon, I have always wanted the inside of the tailgate to look better, I started on that.
First I took a straight edge and sat it on the tailgate when it was opened up, the opening/handle mechanism was tilted,





So I cut out what I had made and drilled the bolt out nearest the handle lever, then I fabricated a mechanism that twisted flat using a longer bolt going thru the one I drilled out holding the handle on, I then cut the end of the lever shorter so it would clear the cover plate.



Then I added a support piece in the center for the tailgate cover.



I mounted the cover and then called it a day, but here are some photos.









I need to figure out how I am going to fill the gap at the tip of the tailgate on the inside.
I have also thought about making a way to open the tailgate from the inside also.

I decided on an easy route right now, I have this seal coming for the 320 maybe later today that might work better.
I used a mid 90s Mazda door seal in the gap between the flat plate and the top beam of the top of the tailgate, it doesn't cover the spot weld holes I made to remove that rail from the side of the box sheet metal, I will figure that out once I figure out what I am going to do for sure, this seal will likely keep the flat plate from vibrating also, and it looks better than nothing.

I painted the tailgate chains and upper beam above that gasket I installed today, so now except for the diamond plate cover everything inside the box is painted a dull black.







Painting that part black between the gasket and the top beam sorta hides all the spot weld drilled holes above the gasket, sadly I am figuring out ways to not do it right right now.