New World Datsuns...

I've seen them, but I'm not sure I'd have room for even that...

I've got big issues with timing right now. It will run, but the distributor either has to be fully advanced or fully retarded depending on which tooth I set it on. There's no in between.

The motor is at TDC here



Cam lobes on #1 are both facing out






And the distributor in its two possible positions

Engine is running well again. Valve cover, front cover off. I made sure timing was right. New cap and rotor because I needed them anyway, new plugs because I had them on hand and I wanted a fresh start.

Friend is gonna bring over a timing light tomorrow and I'm gonna dial it in. I got myself a new multimeter with an inductive tach and and thermometer probe. I'll be sure to set the idle correctly too.

I was off work semi early today so I decided I'd install the sunvisors. Well, when my arm got tired after the first one I thought I should install the rear carpet section also. Well, that ended up taking quite a bit more time than I expected and I never got around tp the second sunvisor. lol

The headliner looks like hell here because I also pulled the pinch weld trim and separated the glue so I could redo it with better stretch.

Here's the door with new trim. I really wanna do something about the B-pillar trim color.



This bundle of wiring made for a difficult fit with the molded carpet. Thick black=main +battery to starter, Yellow=fuel pump ground, Thin red=fuel pump +, Thick red=Aux fuse box where CAN AM and electric fans get get power.


Just some trimming and spot gluing left here. The bare door is the driver door, if I can't find a new one soon I'll put the panel and trim on it.

Looks like it's getting cleaned up. Was that originally a red interior in a white car?

Yeah, I think so anyway. The b-pillars and door trim were red, the rear seat and two of the door panels were blue, the other two panels were black. And the paint code stamped on the core support is 831 (white). The b-pillar and door trim looks like it's been in the car all it's life so that's my best guess.

Compression tested okay at 120 psi across all four cylinders. It's low, but at least they're all equal. My warm idle is about 950, I'll bring that down some later. Now what has me worried, when heated up and idling, the #4 exhaust manifold runner is 100 degrees cooler than the rest. I'm kinda leaning toward a leaky injector, but will dig more to figure it out.

I meant to say it could be a bad injector, not a leaky one. Annnd, that's exactly what it was. I swear I checked the resistance of all four months ago and they all seemed good, now I'm not even getting continuity through the terminals.

Wouldn't be a proper job without one of these


At $80 each I think I'll take my time replacing the other three injectors. May never need to, who knows?

Here's something, I'm trying to use the door trim all the way around, not just up to the sill plates. Mine are beat to hell anyway, so why not try this. After the trim is installed, screw in the sill plate in, but only on the screws going in from the side. Once the screws are in proceed to shape around the trim with a soft rubber mallet. Then put in the screws that sit on the face of the sill plate, pulling everything flush. You could even use a thin piece of rubber sheet as a seal from water, and to protect paint. I would never do this on a clean, straight set. But I felt mine were dead enough, I mean this car used to race so I wouldn't expect much more. I'll post up more pictures when the carpet is finished and I get the new injector in.

While I'm waiting on an injector I got some carpet shots, all trimmed and glued up.





I realized I have to wait for the sill plates until I get the front carpet in. I only have the front plates, so the rear will stay bare for now.

It starts, runs, idles, and revvvs. With no stumbling or hesitation in between.


One problem, the idle adjustment screw does not adjust the idle. My instincts say vacuum leak, but I'm really just shooting in the dark on that one. No other issues though, and the ecu is all clear.

Are you using the big flat head plug on the intake manifold, near the firewall? .... it takes a few turns to notice a difference on mine

Hmmm, mine is a phillips head screw. Turning in both directions completely doesn't do anything. I'm still thinking it's a vac leak. Maybe from the hard "silicon" intake tube reducer. I can't hear or feel it, but if it's anywhere I think that's where. I have some real silicon tube I'm going to swap with. It should give me much better flex and keep it from leaking. We'll see...

Found a leak when I took the intake tube off. There's a very small hole just before the throttle plate on the bottom.


It comes out the underneath to the fitting that I have an ugly plug on now.


I'm not sure what it was originally for, but I don't think I need or want it.

I haven't started it yet, but I'm hoping for good results. Dead battery charging now.

Set the front section of carpet in. Can already tell it's gonna be more difficult to fit compared to the rear. Have a heater on inside to heat everything up and make the carpet easier to massage. The hump in the middle for the trans tunnel seems a little oversized.

Molded carpet makes for a nice looking finish, especially where the floor meets the door jambs. Nice clean edges, but it's way easier to install the "floppy" carpet. Extra electrical wires don't help either, once again. Lol

Where did you get the molded carpet?

I'd like to know as well.

I just checked that vacuum line on the throttle body ... mine is plugged like yours. I remember reading that's what most people do. And they bypass the throttle body coolant line like you did too. My idle adjuster is mostly a flat head, but can take a phillips too, and it looks bigger than 1/2" threads. so it's not a small "screw"

Indy510 wrote:I just checked that vacuum line on the throttle body ... mine is plugged like yours. I remember reading that's what most people do. And they bypass the throttle body coolant line like you did too. My idle adjuster is mostly a flat head, but can take a phillips too, and it looks bigger than 1/2" threads. so it's not a small "screw"

Sounds like mine, Phillips is just easier to locate the screws without being able to look directly at it. I was able to get adjustment out of it, but only upwards. My range is about 1000-1350 with the adjustment screw. Think I'm going to pull that screw all the way out and make sure the o-ring is okay, if not I'll replace. Just going off memory there, but I think there's an o-ring...
I'll also spray some carb cleaner in and take a q-tip to it.The IACV is working, but I think it could use a cleaning as well. For now, a 1000 idle isn't so bad. It'll get me to the exhaust shop and hopefully alignment all in one day if I play my cards right.

DRIVEN wrote:I'd like to know as well.

Laecaon wrote:Where did you get the molded carpet?

The carpet came from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOULDED-CAR-CAR ... bV&vxp=mtr

Like said before, the trans tunnel is over sized. Would leave plenty of room for thick sound deadener. I just glued the top of the tunnel first, after it was centered. From there I worked the my down the sides of the tunnel and made sure to follow the seat rail. The shifter hole is just big enough for for the rod to have space to move around. That will keep the foam I'm going to use under the boot from going anywhere. I'll get good photos when I get everything cleaned up and the rest of the trim is on. I've got some from the phone for now.





My only factory fresh paint is on the interior A, B, and C-pillars

It's been a couple weeks since I last drove it. Was having issues with bogging/hesitation, and one non functioning injector which might have been the biggest cause of that. Anyway, that plus plugging the last of my vac leaks made today's drive much smoother. The fan is coming on a little after the thermostat opens up and is working great also.

I painted the b-pillar trim black with some vinyl/cloth paint to match the rest of the interior. It's looking much better. Seat is able to fully recline with plenty of clearance for the rear door handles and things.


More carpet photos




Have you ever wondered what's under this riveted on piece of sheet metal? I have. I assumed it was there for a good reason, I was right. I guess someone got tired of messing up the awesome bondo job.


Rocker panels Needed.

I wonder if they made the mold off of a Auto car. Auto 510s have slightly bigger tunnels supposedly.