Thanks everybody!
So far Im 2 days after and I still feel fine. Honestly I dont know how my wrists or ankles dont hurt. I know my seatbelt locks up instantly. Im actually kinda surprised, I was even at work today! (Yesterday was my day off.
So my plans tonight. I have already pulled my radiator, and the full wiring harness from the car. I think I am going to pull the motor out tonight so I can measure and make sure the front end is still aligned. This will dictate what my further actions will be.
Reasons why I want to check the alignment, well the hood was hovering over the passenger fender. Clearly the hood was pushed over (solid contact with driver fender). But was the core support pushed over?
Ill probably have more pictures up tonight.
Jacob's goon build
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Laecaon
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Well fucking damnit. It would look like the front end has been pushed over to the passenger side. It needs to go on an alignment rack. More money, more time.
the time aspect is what is bothering me really. I can borrow cars, but for how long? I think I'm gonna need to buy a new DD. Sigh.
the time aspect is what is bothering me really. I can borrow cars, but for how long? I think I'm gonna need to buy a new DD. Sigh.
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izzo
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Aww man :/ sorry to hear that. Alignment like take it to a shop and have the frame aligned?
8========D ~~~ ( o Y o )
jayden71: titty ponk
devilsbullet wrote: 1400 obo. and best offer doesn't mean 300 bucks you cheap bastards
Re: Jacobs goon build
it needs to go on a frame rack with a tree.......the buckle int he core support is from lateral impact and prolly why the hood is over the fender ......any frame tech shoul be able to put that core support back in a couple hours... glad your ok sad your goon got thrashed ,,,,but glad your ok
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Converted_to_datsun
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Dang dude at least you're ok. Goon looks fixable too. Always good when no other cars are involved cause it keeps titles clean. Now would be a great time to put some new paint in that engine bay too
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DRIVEN
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Maybe something truly uninspiring like a 92 Corolla so you don't get tempted to do any work or make any improvements to it. Focus. Focus. Focus. (but definately don't get a Ford Focus)Laecaon wrote:I think I'm gonna need to buy a new DD. Sigh.
Luckily you didn't have a strut tower brace to transfer more impact to the passenger side. If your lucky, it's pretty isolated and reversible.jrock4224 wrote:it needs to go on a frame rack with a tree.......the buckle int he core support is from lateral impact and prolly why the hood is over the fender ......any GOOD frame tech shoul be able to put that core support back in a couple hours... glad your ok sad your goon got thrashed ,,,,but glad your ok
I think that's what you meant.^^Converted_to_datsun wrote:Now would be a great time to put some new paint on the whole thing.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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Eagle_Adam
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Re: Jacobs goon build
the offer of the 4x4 is still there man, no time limit
pits, tits, tats, dats, and good times yo...... dont need nothing else in life
flatcat19 wrote:For the people; By the people; In the name of all that is Datsun!
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Laecaon
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Not really an update...
Well when I pulled the motor, I noticed a few things. Missing driver side lower engine/tranny bolt, passenger lower engine/tranny bolt was loose. And my exhaust manifold was only bolted to the pipe with 1 nut; the other 2 were mia... my car wasnt that loud...
And I talked to the manager of the autobody place across the street from my work briefly (We keep their overflow of cars in our shop overnight). He said, well bring it by on a Saturday, and you can pay cash. So it seems like I will be getting some sort of deal from them!
And my coworker has a truck and trailer! so that will make it easy.
Well when I pulled the motor, I noticed a few things. Missing driver side lower engine/tranny bolt, passenger lower engine/tranny bolt was loose. And my exhaust manifold was only bolted to the pipe with 1 nut; the other 2 were mia... my car wasnt that loud...
And I talked to the manager of the autobody place across the street from my work briefly (We keep their overflow of cars in our shop overnight). He said, well bring it by on a Saturday, and you can pay cash. So it seems like I will be getting some sort of deal from them!
And my coworker has a truck and trailer! so that will make it easy.
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DRIVEN
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Nice.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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DRIVEN
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Go to the body shop today?
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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Laecaon
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Re: Jacobs goon build
I said a saturday, not this saturday...
I need to finalize a few things. Get a couple parts off the B210 in NorPor pnp to make it driveable again. And wait for my coworker to return from Formula D.
I need to finalize a few things. Get a couple parts off the B210 in NorPor pnp to make it driveable again. And wait for my coworker to return from Formula D.
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izzo
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Re: Jacobs goon build
what color is that b210 man?
8========D ~~~ ( o Y o )
jayden71: titty ponk
devilsbullet wrote: 1400 obo. and best offer doesn't mean 300 bucks you cheap bastards
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izzo
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Re: Jacobs goon build
oh.... they don't have any prices listed on row52 :\
Be interested in grabbing some stuff. But alas, no time lol.
Be interested in grabbing some stuff. But alas, no time lol.
8========D ~~~ ( o Y o )
jayden71: titty ponk
devilsbullet wrote: 1400 obo. and best offer doesn't mean 300 bucks you cheap bastards
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DRIVEN
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Re: Jacobs goon build
I remember seeing that car driving around. Wonder what was serious enough failure to send it to the scrapper.
When the only tool you have is a hammer every problem starts to look like a hippy.
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flatcat19
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Probably couldn't sell on CL after a HG blew.DRIVEN wrote:I remember seeing that car driving around. Wonder what was serious enough failure to send it to the scrapper.
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Laecaon
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Re: Jacobs goon build
Since my car is down right now, I figured I would do some things that I have wanted to do but didnt know if I could get done in 1 day.
So I ripped apart my engine harness. My original intention was to delete the points wire, integrate the HID harness, and delete the voltage regulator plug.
But then as I started looking at the wires, some things annoyed me. I dont like the location of the washer fluid bottle, so I am moving that to the passenger side (possibly firewall but not 100% sure) and this means moving the wires accordingly for the motor/pump. Also their is a engine room light wire in close proximity to the washer fluid motor, I have plans for a under hood light, but not there, so I am pulling it out of the harness all the way to the firewall, and it will probably get ziptied in the cabin. I cut the external voltage regulator plug off, and soldered the wires back together. And then finally, instead of tying the 12V+ wires for the coil together at the coil, Im doing it inside the cabin.
Next up, and its not even on the assembly part yet, was to integrate the HID harness. So far all I have really done is delete the low beam wires and connectors from the harness (well all the way to the relay for now). Then I patched up the harness for the high beams (even though I dont even plug the halogens in because the Projectors outshine them massively) Im just not ready to delete the high beam wires yet, that will be in a future installment of my headlight upgrades... So then next will be to relocate the HID relay box inside the car and integrate the harness. This means I need to give the box 12V+ switched (headlight switched), low and high beam grounds, which need to go into the cabin.
And then I decided I didnt like relays at all in my engine bay, so then I am going to relocate/modify the headlight and horn relay. Both relays are moving into the cabin. The horn relay is going to be converted to a modern 4 pin bosche relay, while the headlight is going to be converted to a 5 pin bosche relay (I never understood the need for the 6 ping headlight relay, as 2 of the wires out of it are connected like 2 inches away... yay no more odd headlight light relay!
next up the line, is the wiper motor harness. No need for it to run across the top of the firewall like it does, so instead its going inside the cabin, to come out the firewall right below the wiper motor.
And finally, I am relocating the fusebox inside the car. This one is actually not too bad to what I thought. Lots of depinning, but thats pretty easy with these old style connectors. It would seem like the big issue is elongating the power wires for the headlights, and the main power wire from the alternator.
I also need to remember to make my dizzy wiring look like it came with the car.
Right now the harness is sprawled across my bedroom floor.
So I ripped apart my engine harness. My original intention was to delete the points wire, integrate the HID harness, and delete the voltage regulator plug.
But then as I started looking at the wires, some things annoyed me. I dont like the location of the washer fluid bottle, so I am moving that to the passenger side (possibly firewall but not 100% sure) and this means moving the wires accordingly for the motor/pump. Also their is a engine room light wire in close proximity to the washer fluid motor, I have plans for a under hood light, but not there, so I am pulling it out of the harness all the way to the firewall, and it will probably get ziptied in the cabin. I cut the external voltage regulator plug off, and soldered the wires back together. And then finally, instead of tying the 12V+ wires for the coil together at the coil, Im doing it inside the cabin.
Next up, and its not even on the assembly part yet, was to integrate the HID harness. So far all I have really done is delete the low beam wires and connectors from the harness (well all the way to the relay for now). Then I patched up the harness for the high beams (even though I dont even plug the halogens in because the Projectors outshine them massively) Im just not ready to delete the high beam wires yet, that will be in a future installment of my headlight upgrades... So then next will be to relocate the HID relay box inside the car and integrate the harness. This means I need to give the box 12V+ switched (headlight switched), low and high beam grounds, which need to go into the cabin.
And then I decided I didnt like relays at all in my engine bay, so then I am going to relocate/modify the headlight and horn relay. Both relays are moving into the cabin. The horn relay is going to be converted to a modern 4 pin bosche relay, while the headlight is going to be converted to a 5 pin bosche relay (I never understood the need for the 6 ping headlight relay, as 2 of the wires out of it are connected like 2 inches away... yay no more odd headlight light relay!
next up the line, is the wiper motor harness. No need for it to run across the top of the firewall like it does, so instead its going inside the cabin, to come out the firewall right below the wiper motor.
And finally, I am relocating the fusebox inside the car. This one is actually not too bad to what I thought. Lots of depinning, but thats pretty easy with these old style connectors. It would seem like the big issue is elongating the power wires for the headlights, and the main power wire from the alternator.
I also need to remember to make my dizzy wiring look like it came with the car.
Right now the harness is sprawled across my bedroom floor.