New World Datsuns...

Yea, right now I am thinking about all I am going to do when I tear into this engine next, I cut the inner pass. side fender well to install the air filter, I also cut the battery tray/hole an inch farther towards the firewall to move the battery back to make room for said air filter housing, so i want to repair the holes I made which basically consists of new battery tray sheet metal, maybe even move it towards the outer fender another inch, and then weld the air filter housing into the inner fender well.
I also want to change the power steering setup to a stock type for the diesel that I have on the engine in the shed, that will make room in the engine compartment for a real pre-filter with a water trap. that I have no where to put right now on the passenger side, it should also allow me to move the main fuel filter to a different place making changing my oil filter less of a hassle.
I plan on installing the injection pump on the engine in the shed on this engine to see if it changes anything.
This has been frustrating, I am not used to doing so much work on an engine and have it get worse instead of better, brakes on the other hand have done this to me in the past several times.

You'll get it all worked out. You always do.

I bought 5 gallons of diesel and piped it to pull the fuel out of the gas can instead of the tank, I still had power loss, but not as bad, but it was 70 degrees outside instead of 80 degrees plus when this issue started.
I am going to try something else likely Friday, I am going to remove the vent line from boost and try driving it on the hiway and see if I have power loss, if I don't have power loss then it is likely an issue that is caused by the way I have it piped or something else has changed on that drive.
It ran so good at first, and the 720 is piped the same way and runs great right now.

OK, so I did something different today that I sorta tried before but I did it a different way this time and it made a difference.
I ordered this valve setup to control boost that has a valve and a tee, I tried it and it didn't work, the tee is sort of a one way tee.
This time I just used a regular tee and the valve, in the past if I just vented the vent line the engine surges like it wants to run away but when I let off the pedal it cut the air off so it could not surge anymore, but when going down the freeway or a steady 40mph it would still surge, an even speed was kinda a pain and it always ran real hot(EGTs), anyway I put the tee in the vent line between the turbo and throttle body and that tee connection goes to a valve on the passenger seat where I can control it.
I got in the truck and started it and let it warm up, then I took it for a drive, at first I could feel slight power loss so I kept opening the valve and it got better and better, I could lift the valve to my face and feel the air coming out of the fitting that had no hose on it, I drove it for over 20 miles, at around 12 miles I pulled the small hose off the valve and just let it vent, the engine ran pretty good, it still wanted to surge a little, but when ever I blocked the end of the hose with my finger I would have immediate power loss, let off and away it would go.
That said I also had another issue that bothered me, the water temp was as high as I have seen it, now as far as I recall when I have pulled the radiator cap in the past I could see the water flowing, so I believe the water pump is good, so I am now thinking that I may need a larger radiator, it works fine in the winter when it is cold outside, but today it is 90 degrees and my temp needle was over 3/4s of the way to pegged, my EGTs were a little higher(800 degrees once), but not enough to make me think the EGTs were causing the warm engine, it just might be without the turbocharger I was right on the edge, but with the turbocharger it just cannot cool it enough on the freeway when it is warm outside(over 70 degrees).
I drove it a steady 75/80mph when traffic allowed, it felt better than it has since the hood river trip, but still had slight power loss a few times when the valve was on the end of the line, after I pulled it off it was better, but as everyone knows, when one starts paying real close attention you notice things you may have not noticed before.
I will look into a larger radiator next and go from there.
I also have a lead on a new inline injection pump for an SD22, I am waiting for a price right now.
I also think something changed, maybe it has something to do with the diaphragm or the diaphragm spring, when I do the radiator I will also do the battery holder, air filter box, and maybe pull the diaphragm/spring and look at them, I have a new diaphragm and an extra spring, I also am planning on changing over to the stock diesel power steering setup to make room for a better/larger pre-filter with a water trap.
I do not believe the fuel tank or fuel were the issue now, I will likely also pipe the fuel lines back to the stock tank.

I'd be curious to hear how it runs with the other pump.

I don't think it is the injection pump itself, it might be the diaphragm or diaphragm spring, or it might have something to do with heat, or maybe a combination, as it ran pretty good today, as I forced it to run richer.

It's running as bad as it ever has again, this is getting old.

Well I believe I figured it out, I test drove it yesterday in the heat of the day and it was running hot(coolant) and I was babying it, but I had no power loss on the 15/20 mile test drive.
I believe the issue was the pre-filter I was using, even though it looked like the same pre-filter I had on my 1982 Datsun 720 diesel truck, it was not the same filter, gas pre-filters have paper elements while diesel pre-filters have a metal or plastic screen type element.

Summary: wire mesh or plastic mesh are OK for diesel, paper is not.

Your post on June 5 references the prefilter. Same one?

DRIVEN wrote:Your post on June 5 references the prefilter. Same one?

Them were cheapo filters, they normally lasted a year or so, so then I decided to buy a pre-filter like my 1982 had, but the ones they were selling me at the auto parts store might have looked like the one I needed, but they were not and caused issues right away.
Now it appears that the auto parts store sold me another cheapo filter as a diesel pre-filter, so I now need to find a real diesel pre-filter and replace the one in there now before it starts causing me issues, although it may last a year.
I believe to get what I need I will have to go to a diesel specialized place.

I took the radiator out today and washed it out and blew air from the back to the front hoping it was plugged up with dirt, but it was fairly clean except for a few bugs and some fir/pine needles, I straightened out a few fins but over all there was nothing wrong with it, it is not plugged up on the inside either.
I put it back in and took it for a drive, I came close to getting a ticket, but when I moved over to the center lane I was already right on top of the Washington state police car, I don't believe he had time to get a speed, another guy was right on my ass when we passed him, he pulled out behind us as soon as we passed him, I let up and as soon as I got passed the semi truck I let off and got over into the right lane slowly and he followed the other guy, I was doing 70mph when I passed him in a 55mph zone.
Anyway it still ran warm, not as warm as the last drive but warmer than I care for, but it was almost 10 degrees cooler today, if I am going to drive it year round I believe I need a larger radiator.
I also ordered a LUBER-FINER FP886 diesel pre-filter on Ebay last night, it's a diesel filter, this morning after I ate breakfast I noticed I had 3 emails, they cancelled the order and refunded my money, this diesel pre-filter thing has to be a joke, I just have to be using the wrong search words or something.
I have used the cheapo pre-filters for years without issues, so I am almost to the point where I will just continue to use them as the nicer ones I tried to use won't/don't work, I will look around a little while longer but this is appearing to be a waste of time, the diesel place didn't even have what I needed.

Are you trying to stay with an in-line type or are you hoping to convert to the spin-on style?

It's just a pre-filter, I want it to protect the fuel pump/lift pump(15psi), once it gets past the fuel pump/lift pump it goes into the main spin on fuel filter.
I have heard of stories about the paper element type pre-filters getting sucked into the fuel pump/lift pump and screwing it up, that is why I really want the proper type of pre-filter, but I am not doing so good on finding one.
I just bought a strainer type diesel pre-filter an hour maybe ago, we shall see if that one get cancelled, it's for the Mercedes diesel, not what I wanted, but it appears I cannot be to choosy as there isn't much out there.
I have a really nice Delphi 296 filter on my 720 turbodiesel, but there is room in that engine compartment, this 521 engine compartment is full already, there isn't room for a large filter like that unless I start relocating stuff and make it even harder to get to things.

I did a bunch of stuff the 521KC diesel today, the stuff that you collect parts for but never seem to get around to installing them.
I put all the switches in position on the dash even though they do not function, and I put a good radio delete plate in.

I also installed my 521 clock, and a few weeks ago I installed a parcel tray.



I had the window washer plunger in position for years, but I installed the Kangaroo bag and piped it to the newly installed squirter.





I also installed the diesel pre-filter today, it more of a screen/strainer than a filter.

I am ready for Blue Lake.

I drove to Blue Lake and back without a hiccup, it drives great!
I am considering removing the posi/LSD in it, when I go around sharp corners it vibrates because the inside tire is burning out when under load(when giving it the pedal), if I coast around the corner I have no issues, and it rained Sunday on the way over to Blue Lake, the back end got out of control going around the corners several times when I gave it pedal from the roads being oily, it was way nicer without the LSD.
I am on the hunt for a set of H190 3.30 gears.

Congrats on getting all the little stuff done. We should all take a focus day like that.
No more fuel issues now?

I could use a set of taller gears in my wagon too. It' be an Autobahn cruiser then. Freeway speed limit through here is 80 and I'm not sure I'd be able to comfortably keep up for extended periods.

No more fuel issues.
80mph is 3000rpms for this truck and it can do it now even going up hills as long as they are not too steep, but I would prefer the engine be at 2800rpms or less, I have to really start putting my foot into it to get above 2600/2700rpms.
I suppose I could run taller tires and get the same result, just have not put the effort into figuring that out, I have P195/75R14 tires on it now, I have a set of P205/70R14 tires but they don't look any taller, the fact is I have a set of P185/75R14 tires and they all look the same height when standing next to each other.
I have been driving this truck for years without the turbocharger, freeway rpms have always been 3000rpms, I was almost floored all the time but that is the way I drove back then, 27mpg was good enough for me, but lately I have been wanting better mileage, I got almost 31mpg doing 75mph on that trip to Jrocks shop meet that time and I have been on a mission to do better going the same speed or close to it since, the only way I will do better is to get my rpms down doing the same speed, it has the power now.
I just have to find the 3.30 gears and use taller tires, but if I go with taller tires I will have to lower it, I have the 720 4X4 leafs, I also have the drop spindles, what I am lacking in is motivation.

How rare are the 3.30 gears? Seems the tallest I've heard about were like 3.54 or something.

DRIVEN wrote:How rare are the 3.30 gears? Seems the tallest I've heard about were like 3.54 or something.

They are fairly rare, they came in the mileage option in the 720s that had the Z20, I have 3.54 gears(LSD) in this truck now, I have an open set of 3.54 gears also that I pulled out to put the LSD in, kinda regretting it now, but I know the LSD is good.
I have 3.30 gears in the 720 turbodiesel, that one could likely turn even taller gears as it has a shitload of torque, the pump is turned up on that injection pump, the pump on the 521 diesel is not turned up.