New World Datsuns...

Eh, I just want a Valentine One.

V1's are nice. But still false alarm on automatic doors. But it will tell you what direction the doors are in. GPS lockout and alerting is where it's at. If the V1 incorporated that... or the 9500xi incorporated directional alerting they would be the ultimate radar detectors. Red light camera notifications are really nice to have, especially is you are driving in a city you are unfamiliar with.

Anymore.. you need to have offensive protection because most police are using lidar. Once you get hit, they have your speed. Game over.

Well sure. But if you know the signal is coming from a door, then you know its false. And since any of the good ones also detect laser, you at least know to slow down. I understand jammers are good to hide yourself, but at a certain point, you should just slow down.

Yeah, I generally don't speed any more than 7 miles over the limit. It's always good to know when you are being watched though. It's annoying to have your detector going off every time you drive by a store. It's the boy who cried wolf theory.

I had to do some work on the truck today, just to much shit going on to ignore it anymore, ever since I swapped out the dually rearend I have been having issues with the rear brakes, initially I pulled the brake cylinders and un-seized them, honed them and put them back in hoping to have rear brakes, it worked for a while, then I started having to pump the brakes to stop, and bleed the right rear every other day, so I pulled the dually wheels, then axle, then the drums, and it was soaking wet inside, so when I parked it at night, the brake fluid was draining out of the brake cylinder, what baffles me is that I was not loosing any fluid in the master.
I put a new brake cylinder in and put it all back together, adjusted the brakes on both sides, bled the brakes, and it works fair now, I still cannot lock the rear brakes which bugs me, but it is much better now.
I also have been having issues with the electric brakes on the trailer, they quit working after less than a year, so i got under that and found a pinched wire, I put a butt connector in it, drove down the street with no improvement, I got under it again and could find nothing else wrong, it was starting to piss me off, then I got an inspiration out of desperation, I unplugged the trailer plug, plugged it back in, and now the trailer brakes work again, electrical shit is not my thing, it makes me crazy.
I had another issue that showed up yesterday, and it is why I worked on it today, when I shut off the key yesterday, only half the stuff shut off, the engine kept running, the heater blower kept running, the ignition light came on, and the blinkers still worked without the key in the ignition, but sometimes when I put it in gear, and I let out the clutch and killed the engine it would all turn off, sometimes the blower kept blowing, I pulled the key plug and nothing changed, so I looked at the fuse block, the evil thing that was always giving me grief, either the park lights would not work, or the brake lights would not work, or the headlights would not work, or the freaking thing would not charge, it was always something on that thing that needed pushed or pulled or re-bent, I had bought another fuse block from overseas a while back, but it did not look quite the same, but I figured out how to combine a couple wires and put it in as a replacement, well everything seems to work at the moment, I should have taken a photo of the bottoms, but I forgot.
It's looking like I am going to need rear brakes soon, I am also going to need tires, they are down to the wear bars.

I have a question, can I put a proportioning valve on the front brakes and force the back brakes to do more of the work?
I am still using the stock 521 single reservoir master brake cylinder with the residual valve removed, I need the back brakes to work better, I have hardbody dual piston/vented rotor disc brakes on the front, that is why the 10 lb. residual valve has been removed.

wow man that is a bunch of grief lol.

I need to adjust my rear brakes. pedal is getting down a little bit. I like my brakes right at the top and working tits.

izzo wrote:wow man that is a bunch of grief lol.

I need to adjust my rear brakes. pedal is getting down a little bit. I like my brakes right at the top and working tits.

I have been putting up with it for a while, but when the engine would not shut off, it was time to do something about fixing stuff, it's kinda a bitch to stop the rig when the electric brakes don't work, that became an issue early this week, so having to pump the brakes, and having the trailer brakes stop working should have been the straw that broke the camels back, but I went the extra week and waited till it was something that could not be ignored, as one cannot let the fan run all night and expect the truck to start in the morning.

I have had a slight miss in the engine for a while, at the lower rpms it runs fine, but once I get into the mid range it starts this what I call a half miss, I can feel and hear it, but it's not a total dead cylinder, it's like the valves are to tight, I have been thinking it was the back SU, as that would make sense to me, having a slight miss every other hit, I tried adjusting once but it made no difference.
So a week ago it was doing it again and I decided to pull the choke on a little to see if it helped, at first I thought it did, but nothing changed, a couple days ago I just pulled the choke on full while driving down the freeway at 60mph while being floored, I left it on full till I noticed a change, I started to loose power, likely to much gas, when I pushed the choke back in, all my issues went away, no half miss anymore, I think the SU needle and seat got some crap in them, and when I opened it up wide while at 3500rpms, it sucked the crap out, I never pull the choke on that far when starting it.
All seems good now, life is good.

Ha. Thats cool lol

RedBanner wrote:Ha. Thats cool lol

What's hilarious is that I bought that weber side draft from you to replace the issue I had with the SUs, and now it's all better.

Do I need to buy it back and resell?

RedBanner wrote:Do I need to buy it back and resell?

No, the moment I sell it back and you sell it to someone else, my SUs will totally fail, I will use it I am sure.

Haha, that would figure lol

I had a vibration this morning at hiway speeds, at first I thought it was the rearend, but the fluid level was good and the proper color, so I checked the driveline, it felt solid, I did all this in front of a customers house.
So when I got home I pulled the filler plug on the transmission and checked the level and color, all was good???
I checked the driveline again, carrier is good and so were the 2 front u-joints, but when I got to the rear u-joint I found the issue, it's fairly bad, but it will get me through tomorrow and I will buy one and fix it.
To bad it's a custom driveline(2 feet longer), I have an extra stock one in the parts shed.
I will try to remember to take a photo of the bad u-joint before replacing it.

I noticed a hard shake on the truck today too. Ill take photos and update my thread once I get the stock rims/tires back on.

Well I did something today that should make my life less stressful while driving the work truck, I hope that I fixed the back brakes for good this time, I have had to pump the brakes almost every time I stop, I have for a couple years now, it's amazing what one can get used to, I also have had to bleed the rear driver side every 2 or 3 days, I have went through a lot of brake fluid over the last couple years, I replaced the right rear wheel cylinder today and adjusted the rear and trailer brakes.
The passenger side was replaced months ago, but it turned out that when I bought a set of rear wheel cylinders from 2 different places because the first place didn't have 2, when I went out to replace them both, that was when I realized that they were different, so I only replaced the one that was wet, well even though the other side was dry, it was still getting air in it every night, so yesterday I picked up the part, went to work this morning, then got home and fixed it.

It seems to be a lot better now, but the real test will be when I get in it the next time I drive it.
That's my neighbor sitting on the planter wall.

Wayno why not do a brake swap?

I am losing the clutch master in the truck, it goes dry every couple days, it is leaking in the cab, I have one left in my stock, guess I am going to have to order a couple more now.
I believe if I don't fix it tomorrow, I will be shifting without the clutch very soon.
I also adjusted the valves this morning, it runs much better now.

Well it is done, new clutch master installed.

I noticed the slave is wet also, but I cannot remember if it was wet before I bled the master, so I will have to watch that for a while now.

the work truck still has a single line brake master cylinder?

doesnt it have disk brakes on the front?