New World Datsuns...

izzo wrote:Wouldn't you like to know

I think the same size, maybe even smaller than yours. The one I have now is autogage, autometers lower end line. still a good tach. Ill try and throw up a pic tonight.

trolololol

yeah autogage/autometer is good stuff though !
pic is cool... love tach pics ...

actually I found it. It's gotta be this one, looks exactly like it.. 3 3/4
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetai ... 2476&sid=1

That's a good one ! I was looking real hard at snagging one.
I wouldn't have the slightest clue where to mount it in your ride hmmm (that's comfy , easy to see, etc).
I like how the the needle has a much broader sweeping motion from 1k-7k.

Yeah IDK where to mount either. Probably will mount it to the top of the clam shell since I don't use the speedometer anyways.

izzo wrote:Yeah IDK where to mount either. Probably will mount it to the top of the clam shell since I don't use the speedometer anyways.

Sounds as good as a place as any really.

Found out where I wanted to mount it, yo!

[youtube]r-_ZdqeyeMg[/youtube]

Brappity brappity braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap

Tach looks good dude ! someone likes the vrooom vroooooooooomm

did u hearz the sweet spot? watch the tach when she falls back down around 4500 dat sound... fap fap

izzo wrote:did u hearz the sweet spot? watch the tach when she falls back down around 4500 dat sound... fap fap

I wen't
I -ed
I approved

Lol

im lovin the number of pictures on this thread! hoepfully when i have some spare time ill get my brakes rebuilt, is there any real trick to rebuilding the rear wheel cylanders? rebuilding them kinda scares me but their hella expensive to just replace outright.

kylezone wrote:im lovin the number of pictures on this thread! hoepfully when i have some spare time ill get my brakes rebuilt, is there any real trick to rebuilding the rear wheel cylanders? rebuilding them kinda scares me but their hella expensive to just replace outright.

Thanks.

Brakes are something that if you can afford to .. always buy the best quality !
If they're not seized , then the rear wheel cylinders should be able to just pop right out !
If not ... they should always be fairly easy/free to move ... otherwords typically they're not worth rebuilding (especially in aluminum housings).
Front calipers are a different story.

Good luck and be safe.

I paid almost nothing for my rear brake cylinders, from napa auto parts. I trust napa with parts, they have always done me right. (one time they got me the wrong alternator, one time..). It was worth the 24 or 25 dollars it cost me for rear cylinders... and install was easy enough. If you were closer man I would crawl under n help out... So if you ever come out to warrenton, lemmy know.. Ill drag ma tools out and lend a hand.

yea, but 240z wheel cylinders are spendy... and harder to find...

oh... haha nevermind

Oh yeah izzo NAPA is the place !
yerp the rear wheel cylinders for the 71's use to be about $95 a piece not too many years ago ...
I believe they're more towards $45 from Oreily's s%$%-house of parts trololol.

kylezone --- Yeah rebuilding calipers and wheels cylinders isn't that big of a deal AFTER you've been doing it for a bit It is a safety issue and if that bothers you/a person then I'd just recommend purchasing the re-manufactured/new stuff off the shelf (no worries).
You can also get creative and slowly pump out the pistons in the wheel cylinders .. while they're on the car (stay WAY away from them at this time).
I literally took a spare and loose clutch master cylinder + line = hooked to a wheel cylinder and calipers in order to hydraulically push out the pistons (worked great). Air pressure will work as well from a compressor , but get something to catch or give the pistons a soft landing. Keep your body parts away from this at all times with air pressure. You'll want to look for pitting , scuffing , and detoriation (mostly from moisture). If the cylinders themselves pass your inspection to your liking (remember none will be perfect) ,,, then perform a quick hone (fine sand-paper works in a pinch)... clean with brake fluid only ... lube it all up (you can buy special grease that is complaint with car hydraulic systems ,,, or just use brake fluid) ... and carefully squarely put it all back together ! Assemble the car ... take it around the side streets ... and I PERSONALLY take off the wheels to inspect for any leakage after about 50% of the time . Everyone does this differently as you know. Are you 100% sure your rear brakes are not functioning ? Key to most of this is to keep the hydraulic system clean of anything other than Brake fluid.

I'm not a tech though

Mag wheels need the lug-nut torque checked twice in my experience.

Yea we are fairly certain. I think the passenger side is frozen. Neither side is auto adjusting like it should. I'm kyles friend irl fyi.

yuck. Yeah that's what happened to me .. passengers side even.
yeah I'd just find a good loose cylinder ... rebuild it quickly ... or buy one from Oreily's for $45. (that is a bit).
I'll see if I can find something I'm willing to let go of. (not sure I even have).
Sounds like the adjusters are seized ? (dunno) ... crap ... heat would be able to break stuff loose , but I wouldn't advise it. (use if just robbing parts).
I use Anti-Seize on my adjusters typically (not the best not the worst).

People convert to the 280z rear wheel cylinder systems as well just because the cylinders are cheaper.
That requires a bit more work , and not really viable unless parts in hand.

Honestly I looked at just converting to disc when repairing/replacing my rear brake stuff ...
Once you get it all figured out the stock system is pretty good.
There has been "some" trouble with a few disc conversions that I've seen .. IDK for sure though what happened.

And this is why I bleed my brake systems often !

Thanks to flatcat19 , wayno , and laecaon.
I have (2) avenue's of local direction to machine the front trans case for my 5-speed conversion.
xcessive engineering got back to me today , and stated that they would likely be able to do it if there is access for the machine to clear it.
Both machine shops told me to bring it in , and they'll take a look/quote a price.

BLUE wrote:Thanks to flatcat19 , wayno , and laecaon.
I have (2) avenue's of local direction to machine the front trans case for my 5-speed conversion.
xcessive engineering got back to me today , and stated that they would likely be able to do it if there is access for the machine to clear it.
Both machine shops told me to bring it in , and they'll take a look/quote a price.