New World Datsuns...

Still look better than most of my pics.

Glad it turned out better then mine

Well firstly, that Rad is huge. Its really, really wide. I knew it from the measurements and the pictures, but to hold it to the car, wow. Anyways, Ill worry about figuring out how to mount it when the intercooler gets in. Maybe I should order a few silicone 90s to really see how things fit...

Anyways, got the CA on a motor stand. I want to get the crank out, But I learned that isnt so simple on a CA. The Oil pump is a unit which encompasses the crank, and you need to remove the timing gear on the crank, which removes much like a pulley, except harder. Its common practice to cut and destroy it to remove. I dont like "1 time use" things like that. So for now I drilled and tapped the gear to get it ready for extraction (much like a steering wheel puller). I had to drill a second set of holes as after drilling the second hole my drill bit decided to snap off in the gear.... Ill probably get the thing removed cleanly, and then decide I want a new one in about a month... sigh.

Also took some comparison shots of the 2 batteries for you guys.

I think I might be nervous about running that gear again. Maybe it never would be an issue but it's be a real heartbreaker if you had a failure that cost you a set of valves. I realize that the OEs drill and tap gears but if it were my car I'd have that nagging "what-if" in the back of my brain every time I made a 7000rpm shift.

Exactly. It will get changed. I just havent come to that conclusion yet (I just dont want to destroy it).

Also 7k RPM shifts are in the future, but probably not too many with the stock rear diff.

The dif will hold for a bit

Seems that axles are the peak point in the H190.

Yea, I am aware, it is after all a 7.5" ring so its not small. Just no one wheel burnouts, and not too much fun. Axle swap is down the road. That is one of those other things which has been in the back of my mind for a long time, that and how to get rid of the terrible ride quality of the rear leafs. But that is for another day.

You still thinking Volvo or something IRS?


edit: FWIW the LT1/LS1 Camaros and Firebirds were factory equipped with 7.5" (some were referred to as 7.625") rear gears and take quite a bit of abuse. Same rearend in my Cutlass. They aren't something that any raced will brag about but I know of many 455 powered Cutlass', 454 Monte Carlos, etc that make regular visits to the drag strip. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Mostly I want LSD, rear discs (just because I hate servicing drums).

I would do IRS, but I dont know. Miata is the closest thing to "fitting", but would require about 3" total of narrowing, and then I have the problem of figuring out how to go to 4x114.3 on a hub that isnt large enough for that (notice I have researched this?). I dont want to have to deal with a upper spring mount in the car like I would with 510 or S13 IRS. And 510 IRS is not worth the effort of swapping in, I mean, if I am going to cut a bunch and do some engineering, might as well put in something with a little better design.

Axle, I would really like to 3 link it. But I have a rule, no deleting the rear seat/going into the cargo area. Which really dampens where the 3rd link could even go, if at all. I am almost leaning to a set of those Composite leafs, and a good set of shocks. I really really really hate the bounce the rear has, and the axle wrap.

Axle, Im not sure. I kinda still want to do the Volvo rear end, mostly because no one does, but it seems like a good idea (Dana 30 diff), factory discs. Although I think I might need to pull a 940 rear end as its wider. The 240 is so close that when you cut off the ends its now too short. Send the axleshafts off to dutchman. But I am also thinking bout going .5-1" narrower on each side.

I also decided that whatever rear end goes in, Im not keeping those brakes. I want to do brakes all from one car, Like S13 all around, or something of the sort.

In time. When I can start bringing in my own stuff at work, the lathe will be my new best friend. Hey, at least Josh (ConvertedToDatsun), whom I work with, just got told he is going to start taking manual machine classes so he can be the head manual machinist (we dont have one of those...). So I will have someone to talk to about doing some of these projects.

Yep, this motor is going to take some coin to put back together correctly. Gasket kit is spendy. Oil pump is spendy and is of a very odd design. I have all but decided on going with forged pistons... yep. Fun times!

Also got a tracking number for the head, as well as how much the shipping cost. Either he sent the head, or he sent a box of rocks, or he sent a small box of rocks very fast.

the whole cradel set up for the miata rearend maid me not want to do it. i would have had to cut out the back seat in my old car

That makes sense. And probably why I wont go IRS. IRS all day long if it was a track car, but its not. Its a fun car, and a wagon.

Worked on the sprocket. Damn its on there. Gonna head to HD to grab some high grade metric bolts, and some thicker metal to get it off. It came out a bit, but my impact snapped a regular bolt, so I stopped.

There used to be no gap back there. A new sprocket is $30 from Nissan, and Nissan only.

Got the sprocket off. That thing was on there! And with the design of the oil pump, a gear puller never would have fit. Then I was able to remove the oil pump. Such an odd design. Its super lightweight though for what it is. Dip stick is attached. The stick is actually a cable, and I kinda like it a lot. I was just about to pull all of the pistons, then I remembered I want to plastigauge the bearings, so I will hold off for a second. Gonna start designing the Oil pan. Trying to decide on the number of quarts. 5 is a nice number and I think more than the pan is currently. 6 just sounds like a good number though. IDK, ill see what I come up with and go from there.

Sprocket puller, Yes that is 2 1"strips of 1/4" steel bending, probably wouldnt have if I welded them together, but that was more work that wasnt needed. Again the Electric Impact makes things easy.


Oil pump assembly. Its odd, that is for sure. The pickup tube attaches directly to it.


Block without the oil pump. Its neat/annoying how the oil pump is the front portion of the block.


I have been putting the hardware from everything into labeled bags. And its all sitting in a box to help keep it organized.

I have also started writing down everything I can think of needed for the swap, with each page having its own category, still need make fuel and electrical pages.

Also, I found some gloves I really like. The $5 Home Depot Gorilla Grips. Basically feel like super thick nitrile gloves, but its still easy to grab most hardware (not super tiny drill bits), and they breathe well, and keep my hands clean. And they are cheap! so not too worried about destroying them. I dislike most "Mechanics" Gloves as they are always stitched on the fingers right where I want to grab things, and the added bulk of the stitched area just doesnt work for me. Still gonna have some nitrile gloves for the more moist projects/jobs.

I live in Thicksters. They don't breathe at all and increase your body temp about 20* on a hot day but it allows me to maintain dexterity and they're pretty durable. A box of 50 will last 4-6 weeks. Can't stand mechanix style gloves, personally. Might be okay for changing a tire on the side of the freeway but I can't get any actual work done in them. What can I say? I'm a dainty little princess who doesn't like getting my hands dirty.

That's a beefy main girdle. Clearly, the CA is built for durability. Wish I would have been able to get one in my 1200 before it was sold. It's probably more fun watching you spend the money though. What's the future plan for the L19?

I just dive in, then wash my hands with dawn when I'm done. It's bad. I get it all over my clothes n shit. but i have 2 sets of clothes that I use to work on cars anyways. I run em thru the wash by themselves. Always come out with only one or two new stains and smelling fresh! hell, even tho they are stained they are still comfy to throw on

I have a set of mechanics gloves I use to use all the time. They don't seem to work to bad. But once they get oil/grease in them. They are just as bad as not wearing anything and it gets it all over the place. The thicksters are the way to go... Get em caked? Throw away and grab a new set... Gotta eat/answer phone? Throw away grab new set.... Just finished installing an L motor and wanna go rub one out? Rub one out then throw away and grab new set... lolwaitwut

Neat ! That girdle is awesome , and looks like a great little powerplant yo.

Your thread is regularly stalked sir.

Hadn't a clue about the motorcycle battery's being used.
Learn something everyday.

Thanks David!

So um, CAs DO NOT SIMPLY BOLT TO 510 CROSSMEMBERS!!!!! I also learned CAs require different mounts in a S13 than KA/SR. Probably because the block is so narrow.

They need thicker mounts. And all is well. Instead of running 620 mounts (which I dont think are quite thick enough), Im just going to make a spacer for the stock mounts. Then once I test fit the block, I can see if I can push the motor back in the bay at all, which I think I can as the motor seems shorter to the back as well, plus I have seen a couple KAs shoved further back in 510s. Hmm, maybe I can lower the block a bit too...

Yep, just checked out the build that made me know about CA's. He had to use 3/4" spacers under his mounts to get everything lined up.