New World Datsuns...

Makes sense. 1200s are that way.

New mustache bar bushings installed.

The ones I removed were some sort of two piece design?


Diff input seal and crossmember bushings coming soon.

Noticed one axle is reversed. The one on the left needs to be flipped around.

I also bolted the downpipe on and have been trying to figure out how I can use my old tubing. Company I got the downpipe from advertised it as having a 3" inlet and 2.75" exit. I measured and it's actually 2.25" at both ends. They apologized for the false advertising. /:

Man that's always a pain in the ass lol

No doubt, these one's weren't so bad actually. I just hit it with the torch from the side until the rubber on the inside caught fire. Then I put on the gas mask and pressed them out with the bench vise and a couple destroyed cam shaft journals.

I found these and got them fixed up with some heat, air, and sewing needles. I don't think I'll be running a windshield washer pump just because the engine bay feels plenty cluttered already. But I've got 'em if I want 'em...

I think this was too easy to remove. Once I had the nut removed, the flange came right out with my hands.



I wasn't really planning on doing this today, I just found some free time and went for it. So I'm sourcing a new cover gasket and pinion shaft seal right now.

Everything checked out in here.


Working on getting this cleaned up.


Seal will stay until I have a new one.


I found that the main diff mount bolts were pretty loose. Might The light thump I hear on accel/decel. Some of the very few bolts/nuts I haven't put a wrench to yet.

Removed the old gasket and put a clean finish back on the mating surface.

Streamlining this too, think I might just keep it, if it fits with the new motor. Might be able to make it look half way decent. Lol

Really need a belt grinder to get this any smoother. Started with the cut off wheel and shaped it with the grinder wheel.


Also been chipping away at getting this engine bay cleaned up some. Everything was running behind the hood prop before, I think it looks better now.








Still cramped where everything goes through the firewall. I'm kinda wanting to get a new engine harness to strip and prep before replacing mine with it. There's a ton of things I wish I'd done, but I can do them with a blank slate to start with. And I know there's many more wires that can be pulled from the harness.

Dude, you're proving that slow and steady wins the race. This car has come a looong way in 8 months. And it wasn't because you threw huge piles of cash at it. Just little jobs, one at a time. Keep it up. It's turning into a really cool 510.

Thanks a bunch! There's some money in there, lol, but you're right. Lately I've been focusing on all the little things, but that's because all the big stuff is done! That was a nice realization. That being said, I still want a rear sway bar and I want to get to replacing the rear brakes (cylinders, and shoes at least. Maybe a parking brake). But even that stuff is quick and easy. Speaking of a rear sway bar, this was in my spare parts boxes. Rear sway bar mount? I'm pretty sure that's what it is anyway... I already harvested one of the plates to make a mustache bar washer.


All that grinding done on the front strut tower brace and it won't fit with the KA. LMAO, always test fit. I was thinking about cutting it in the center, creating steel plate with "ears" to bolt the bar to, and calling it good. One thing I'm unsure of though, is the panel that the wiper motor bolts to suitable for the stress the strut bar could put on it? That's about the only place I could make it work...

That wiper motor part of the firewall is just 20 gauge steel. The only part that's kinda structural is the seam where the lower firewall meets that upper firewall/wiper motor area

I was that might be the case. I'll leave it alone.

Got some more wiring out of the way and trimmed the fuel lines down. Finally, some space to move around I'm there.





Those holes need to be filled.

Got my rear diff refresh kit ready to go.

And back together.

I reattached my down pipe though the space is extremely tight. It's cinched up close to the trans crossmember with a bit of plumbers strap. The only way to change that is to have the end of the header cut off and welded on at a different angle.

How it is right now, I have a straight shot to the crossmember, maybe 36" or less. And I still have my old muffler with the tube attached that comes from the crossmember to the rear of the car. (Make that 50").

In theory, it all seems simple, but I still need a 2-bolt flange to go be able to attach the new tube to my downpipe.

Edited for my ridiculous grammar.

Was expecting an EBay coolant reservoir, but got an EBay FPR instead. Lol

Anyone on Facebook, (Jacob, at least), might have seen me trying to work out my headlight issues. Basically, when I plug in the headlight relay, the headlights come on, brights and all. The only way to turn them off is to unplug the relay, the switch has no effect.

Now, the headlights and everything worked fine before I went through the dash harness and fixed everything that needed fixing. I'm not sure how, but they worked before. I must have undone whatever magic was preformed to get them to work. Jacob seemed pretty confident that the issue lies in the fact that I have a '69 dash and '69 harness to go with it, but the engine room harness is from a '70+.

I worked out a deal with an Ebay seller for a dash harness from a '71 510. He already owed me a wiper cowl from when he shipped one in a box with ZERO support or bracing in the box and when I got it it was twisted and just bent out of shape. I only paid $15 for it, so I wasn't too upset. I offered him $20 on the dash harness and told him he didn't have to worry about shipping another cowl. All in all, a $45 dash harness should be here next week. Crossing my fingers hoping it works out. I'll still have to find some switches to go with it, but hopefully someone at Canby has some. That is, if I can make it there in the first place.

Also, #4 cylinder is running 100 cooler than the rest. I'm getting spark, or at least power to spark plug. The spark plug was wet as hell when I pulled it. I'm gonna have to guess that the injector didn't fully seat and it's leaking now. I'll be pulling all the injectors soon to replace the o-rings because I'm sure they'll all start to go eventually. For now, I'm going to warranty the injector from the part store and replace again. Just cause the o-ring wight be worn weird. Hoping that'll be the last of that one, yeah I think I've said that before. Once or twice...

I replaced the connector that attaches the MAF and filter to the intake tube with this 45 degree 2.5"-2.75" elbow adapter. I now can take the rad cap off without removing the MAF and filter! Small win, I know. lol The only problem is the filter is now drawing air from closer to the exhaust manifold, and further from the fresh air at the front end. This got me thinking about a heat shield. Once a few more things are tidied up I'll get to work on taking measurements for the shield.

Oh, and I'm on the muffler shops schedule for next wednesday.

I had the same problem with my 710 headlights ... I had connected two solid red wires in the harness. On a 710, the headlight switch gets a constant 12V, and then a different solid red wire sends power to the relay. I had bypassed the switch by connecting both red wires.

That would be a problem:

Went out to the junkyard and got a couple of the fuel injector retainers off a 96 Maxima. They looked brand new, should have got all 6, lol. The motor itself looked brand new as well. They all looked the exact same on the Sentra and of course the Frontier.



And got the injector replaced. Old new one had a big gauge in the lower o-ring. Definitely leaky.


It's running smoother than ever now. Sustained low throttle was really rough with the leaky injector but that is no more. I'm pretty happy with the way everything is situated now, can't wait to start driving it more.

Got some wire separators, really helped keep them where I want.