New World Datsuns...

And Im back already! Figured out my course of action. The 510 motor mounts have 2 sets of holes. Not sure why. The crossmember also has 2 sets of holes, but only 1 set has welded nuts. So I thought, what if I drop the mounts to use the upper holes instead of the lowers? Just about perfect! And I like it lower. I will weld on a bit to the motor mount crossmember surface for more support there.

Passenger mount, need to open the alignment hole just a hair to allow the mount to sit flat.


Upper bolt holes used.


Driver side mount, a little off maybe, but only by like a degree. Again I need to open the alignment pin hole a hair.


Upper mount holes again.


Block to crossmember clearance.


Drivers side, 5 inches. Figure 4.5" to be safe with motor mounts squishing.


Passenger side, just shy of 6.75". About 6.25 to be safe.


Reference picture for myself. 2"


Crossmember to steering linkage clearance, Measured a bit bit more than 7.5" on the passenger side ish. Its closest to crossmember with wheels pointed straight. It raises a little bit when turning, as well as moves away from the crossmember.

Without even trying to maximize things, and I have a lot of room behind the sump to add volume, I have already designed a 4.8quart pan. Solidworks is fun.

Now to figure out the oil pan drain.

Intercooler came in. First impressions, its heavy, welds look decent, I got a free lanyard in the box, it was packaged decently, one side is stamped with their name. So its a real company making a product, so at least better than ebay quality. I have actually read decent things online about this intercooler too.

Picture dump.

Test fitting. No pics. Gonna have to cut the core support some. There just is not enough room between the valence and core support. Maybe if I had a narrower radiator... like stock width... but I dont. I think this also means I am going with electric fans. I could probably mount the Lseries fan to the waterpump without the clutch, but nah.

I rested the intercooler on its side in the engine bay, then the radiator on top. The hood clears the rad just fine with it as high as I want. Though I will need to mod the front frame rail a bit, but I like the idea that I have...

Got around to soldering my LED board. Need to make a second one still, but I need to use my other soldering iron as the tip I used on this one is way too big.

Left & Right turn signals, and parking lights in, and 2 outputs for Left and Right turn signals and parking lights (dual brightness LED). This will work with the tail lights too as the brake lights are part of the turn signals.

I cut some big holes in my car, but since my air compressor is not at home, I cant make things pretty yet (need my die grinder for some tight spots).

Pictures later. kthxbye.

tease

You really want to see Jacob's holes?

Not until he makes them pretty.

Of course.

Mr Angle Grinder and Mr hole saw had some fun today raping my car.

Here you can see the remnants of something that blocks air flow, but also added rigidity (which will be addressed later).



And here are some gaping holes. 3" hole saw did that, as well as the grinder. I picked up a foot of 3" steel tube (probably about the same thickness as the metal removed, maybe thicker). The silicone adapters happen to fit rather nicely in it. Im going to cap this opening in the frame rail with part of the steel tube. Needed to get my intercooler lower. Valence will be interesting, but I think I will be able to get away with a fair bit. And of course once the bumper is in place you wont notice a thing.





Finally, stated tacking some sheet metal to the oil pan. Dont worry, its not nearly finished. Really I just need to make sure to have enough room for the pickup tube.

Don't forget to flange the core support where you opened it up it will need the extra strength

Plastigauged the rod bearings after work tonight. All turned out very well. Clearance is rated at .018mm-.045mm with a limit of .1mm. All came in between .025mm and .038mm. Bearing surfaces where like mirrors. Everything looked super clean, better than any L motor I have taken apart. Still has the Nissan STD bearings, so it hasnt been rebuilt before.

Also, all piston ring lands are intact. This is supposedly a common issue with this motor (if you mess up the tune or something).

Ill try to tackle the main bearings tomorrow either before or after work.

My phone was retarded taking pictures, a bunch didnt get saved?...

Anyways, here is 1,2, and 4 respectively.

Of course sometimes money gets tight when both cars registration expire the same month, and the Saturn needs new front tires,alignment, suspension components. Probably gonna run the Saturn through DEQ tomorrow, if it fails, 5k highway run should clean it up.

How about some pics of the cylinder walls?

Lol, maybe. Pretty sure they are shot. At the very least going to need a good hone considering it takes chrome rings.

Okay fine...

And main bearings check. Again these came back fine. .021-.048mm range, all came back around .038mm with no taper at all. So thats good news.

And yay oil squirters, turbo block only thing.

And lastly there are the bore pictures. Flash made them look really really orange. Center 2 I had hit with a bit of steel wool and all saw a flat razor blade, lubed with PB blaster or Seafoam (which has some interesting cleaning characteristics). Maybe they are salvageable, ill let the machine shop tell me that.

On with the pictures!

#1


#2


#3


#3 again


#4


#5


Crank out, hello oil squirters.


#1


#2


#3


#4

If you don't have any notable ridge, it really wouldn't hurt to hit it with a ball hone. You might get lucky and clean it up. Worst case -- it goes to the machine shop anyway.

Note, dont buy ACL bearings, reports of their bearings delaminating all over different forums.

Clevite 77 seems to be the trusted option.