New World Datsuns...

This is great to see!

Stuff I noticed from the test drive:

- Dogleg is tough to shift at times, Feels like oil is too thick. I'll have to see if it's easier when the tranny gets hot.
- Brakes stop.. and pedal feels fine.. but quality of brakes suck. Not enough stopping power.
- Not a lot of power. Sure, it's an L16, but the weber is not jetted as recommended for an L motor.

I'll pull jets to confirm the sizes and order the correct jets. I'll post the jets that are currently in it for feedback.

Also, needs more low. I've got coil overs for the front. Need to lower the rear. Cut springs or D50 springs? Pro's vs Con's?

D50 are a bit higher spring rate pro
Cut springs con..They are cut,but give a bit higher rate
Cut springs do work(as long as they are not overly cut),and are wallet friendly

I would do D50's if it were me. With the 82-83 Camaro shocks. IIRC that combo lowers the rear about 2 inches.

The next problem... finding d50 springs.

New parts should be here today. Water pump, engine mounts, dizzy cap, and something else.. I don't remember what it was.

Also bought these:



And




I'll return again today to get an air fitting and blast media.

I signed up for the inside track club at HF. I've had it before, it was okay. The time I got it before, there was some item I wanted to purchase that was like $30+ off if I bought the membership.. so it worked out.

This time, I got $20 off the membership. It won't be hard to get my money back in discounts. Although, ALWAYS use the 20% off coupon.. That's why it's taken me 3 trips to HF to buy this shit. 20% one single item.. lol

draker » Wed Mar 11, 2015 11:36 am wrote:I signed up for the inside track club at HF. I've had it before, it was okay. The time I got it before, there was some item I wanted to purchase that was like $30+ off if I bought the membership.. so it worked out.

This time, I got $20 off the membership. It won't be hard to get my money back in discounts. Although, ALWAYS use the 20% off coupon.. That's why it's taken me 3 trips to HF to buy this shit. 20% one single item.. lol

Hey, you have to work the system, to do it any other way will leave your wallet lighter.

I made a little blast booth around the rear quarter of the car to test the blaster with my air compressor. First thing I noticed was I need a blasting helmet for sure. Goggles and respirator was not enough. Still caught some shit in my eye. I have enclosed goggles and they fogged up almost instantly.

I just did two test spots with 80 grit glass media. Here is one of them:

Shitty pictures.. but you can still see the pits.. Anyone know at what point the you would call the rust removed? How do I know there is no rust in those pits?

wire wheel the piss out of it. Get it down to metal. black/red = nope. silver is the key!


my .02

izzo » Wed Mar 11, 2015 10:44 pm wrote:wire wheel the piss out of it. Get it down to metal. black/red = nope. silver is the key!


my .02

It's been wheeled to death. Still can't get in the tiny pits. I used my grinder to sand the surface, but that warps the sheet metal quick!! So I bought the media blaster setup and I hit it with glass. I can't tell if it got in the pits or not. I'll hit it some more.. I was just testing it out today. I want to make DAMN sure the rust is all gone. Might get some ospho or something.

I'm no expert but once you've sand blasted the area, a wire wheel won't work, all that will do is scratch the top surface. And like you said, heat the metal and warp it.

time for some liquid rust removal to get into them tiny pit hole. Using the ospho would be my next move. I've heard that's good stuff from a body shop guy. Don't forget to wear gloves and use in a vented area.

and since your about to seal the metal up. If your going to use bomb can primer on it, make sure you put a top coat over the primer, primer adsorbs H2O. By applying a top coat, it will seal out the H2O. Then when your ready to paint the car, you can sand off that bomb can paint for some real auto paint.
The thinners are diff for the real auto paint compared to bomb can thinner, that's what I've been told.

are you painting you own car or will you be hiring a shop for that task?

I will be painting it. But for now I'm just removing rust and sealing bare metal.

Bought this bee keepers hood:

Also bought some paint supplies:

Ospho
Zero Rust paint (gray)
Urethane thinner
Extreme Rage filler


The plan is to media blast the surface rust off, use ospho to neutralize any leftovers.. thin the zero rust and spray a few coats. Bang out a few dents, filler.. then a two part epoxy primer over that.

Not sure what after that, maybe some high build and block it out? If I can get it coated in zero rust, I'll have some time to think about it.

Also, I'm going to build a mobile blasting booth. Just something small I can move around the garage and spot blast parts of the car. PVC and some plastic should do it I think. Also a fan and filter.