New World Datsuns...

Looks great!

The Clutch:

This appears to be an Exedy clutch, but modified. The PP is stamped made in Japan, and has weights added to the springs.

The disc center says Exedy on it, but clearly they have riveted on their own material to the disc.

Got a new Timing Sprocket and Key.



Head is resting on block, oil pump on.

Well that was a chore. I now understand why the CA18 guys say you have to install the head studs after placing the head on. You cant get the washers on.

So I got it all together ready to torque. But then oh no! I dont have a socket that will fit. I need a 1/2" 12point medium to deep socket. So off to Home Depot. Grabbed a 1/2" drive deep socket, took it home and ground the outside of it down until it fit down the head bolt holes. Its tight.

Anyways, head is torqued to 80ft-lbs per ARP instructions.

Oops. I just bought a Nistune board...

I had a clutch with those weights on it, didn't seem to notice much different. They make something like that for quads and call it a lock out. It IS needed for quads with tons of power, otherwise the clutch slips and it gets fubar in a quick. Same thing applies here, Helps it grab. But the truck I had the exedy clutch in, didn't have a shit ton of power haha. Built L20 with header and a weber....

I'm enjoying this build. I've just been lurking, but I have to say - you're doing a bang-up job.

It's all in the details.

I agree. Although alot of the stuff you're doing is over my head, I enjoy watching it unfold.

Thanks guys, most of this is uncharted for me as well. But with google I can figure out just about anything.

Yay, Im doing stuff! getting stopped by dinner is a good thing. My goal tonight is to have the timing belt installed.

2 larger purchases for the car lately. I feel like Im am getting stuff done, but at the same time, not really...

It will end at some point, soon.

I want to get a remade Nistune sticker that will look better on the car. I actually want a Nistune sticker on the car...

Also, one day, whenever I get speed hut gauges, they totally make one that works with the wideband...

I made some holes bigger...

Thinking tomorrow (today for you guys when you read it) I will drop the motor in so I can start mocking things up.

Got my Turbo unseized (housing, shaft has always spun nicely). Now I can make it a Top mount by flipping the CHRA (center section where oil feed and water feeds are), and then re-clock the compressor housing to better aim the intake to where I need it to be.

Ordered a universal intercooler piping kit. Should come with enough to fit what I need. Ill cut and fit and then have it welded at work.

Buying components so that I can adapt Audi R8 ignition coils if need be. These coils are a bit tall, but are like $25 a piece, made by NGK, super new style meaning very efficient and hotter spark.

Motor in! Things line up so well! Looks right at home in there!

That looks like a good fit. Plenty of room in the back too. Are you gonna pull it back out & paint the bay or just leave it? Personally I like it with the bare metal sanded parts.

It will get pulled. I have to paint the bay and wheel wells. Stitch welding burns out the coating on the metal and then rust develops.

I figured you would but I had to ask, especially with the high standard level that you work to. I didn't know if you would just clear coat it or not.

Well I have officially started on my wiring. Getting rid of the stock fuse box. Going to run an off the shelf part. Should be pretty nice. Also, bought some firewall pass through for the starter/battery cable.

I separated all of the lighting and horn wires from the rest of the engine harness on the 510. Since I am going with a bit of a wire tuck, It will all make sense. Also, well the engine wires arent needed so much.

One of these things:

What did you pick up for your firewall pass thru?