New World Datsuns...

Eagle_Adam wrote:compression test it and check the coolant like draker mentioned

I'll have to buy the stuff to do the comp test.

izzo wrote:There was a way to tell. Blue is oil, white is water, something something... Paging Micro!

Yeah that's what I checked for it smoked the other day and a few days before when it was really cold out it smelled sweet I knew it was coolant I hope it isn't too bad would suck since it's my only daily driver to work for the meantime.

BLUE wrote:That sucks Arche.
Yup like others said a compression test can be handy for now.

If it were me I'd walk into NAPA and grab a test kit like this one below for $35.
They do work and they're accurate.



Make sure your heater-core hoses/heater core itself isn't leaking inside the cabin area as well (since you can smell it ?) ... not likely leaking, but free to check :-/

Brakes .. since it's a Datsun. I'd recommend compressing the pistons in then pumping them out (slowly and carefully without the brake pads one side at a time while the other side is assembled) to make sure they move smoothly and freely in both directions (yup sometimes they're hard in one direction and easier in the other ). If not it could end up being a sticky caliper like had on my truck.. which aren't fun to drive home in traffic 2-weeks ago ...


I've learned to use Prestone 5-year anti-freeze (just the regular yellow bottle works very well for me)
worst case scenario ... If you have to pull off the head ... I'm not joking when I say this ... pop the exhaust downpipe off + leave the manifolds on + hook the head to your engine crane and make it so ! so so so much easier .. ... then you can pull off the manifolds in your garage where the weather isn't pissin on ya.

Good luck either way Arche and hope it's something small man ... look at all those small details first .. you'll get it !

d*&n it now I sound like a know it all

Thanks Blue I'll look into that and most probably buy, I know for a fact it isn't leaking but good to check any way it does smell like gas in my car though.

Brakes need to get done anyway there making a squealing sound and the rotor is not looking too good I hope I can still get it resurfaced, the back are drums future plans are to convert to disc.

I actually need a engine crane been meaning to buy one but money is tight right now!

I hope it isn't too bad man if so then I'll have to save up and just do an engine swap or get the engine rebuilt I got a guy I know from the local Z car club that told me to bring the car anytime it needs work he has a lift so I'll probably do that.

I wish I knew as much as you would definitely get more done on the car.

ArchetypeDatsun wrote:
Thanks Blue I'll look into that and most probably buy, I know for a fact it isn't leaking but good to check any way it does smell like gas in my car though.

Brakes need to get done anyway there making a squealing sound and the rotor is not looking too good I hope I can still get it resurfaced, the back are drums future plans are to convert to disc.

I actually need a engine crane been meaning to buy one but money is tight right now!

I hope it isn't too bad man if so then I'll have to save up and just do an engine swap or get the engine rebuilt I got a guy I know from the local Z car club that told me to bring the car anytime it needs work he has a lift so I'll probably do that.

I wish I knew as much as you would definitely get more done on the car.

Definetly ! That's good to hear that it isn't leaking (heat-core/hoses). I had forgotten it smelled a bit like gas now and then.

You should be ok on your brakes. Moisture accumulates around this time of the year on everything ya know ? flash rust over-night or splashing through puddles will dry up the brakes/make noise. Or if you live in Utah ... they sound like that a good portion of the time from what I understand.
You can use high temp wheel bearing grease/disc brake grease ... for your brakes , but there are better products to use. It's $4 for a little container , and you get to pack your wheel bearings at the same time ! Honestly... a lot of tech's are gonna hate me when I say this .. lol .. If your rotor isn't too warped I would just slap some pads on and go (and if not too thin of course). Reason being is if the cheap rotors get turned again.. they sometimes warp shortly after .. could be the driver IDK .. lol. It's just a money saver , but not ideal yet you can get by for a long while if just driving around town . I use copper anti-seize for lubricant on my brakes , and the "Formulated" brake grease where it counts.

Converting to disc in the future. Should make your wagon yet look that much different man

Yeah don't buy one if money's tight ! If you find a good deal on an old American made cylinder one .. I'd look hard (if funds apply at that point). New China ones are fair enough to do the job alright .. the metal is soft .. the rams need to be rebuilt/replaced more often. I guess it goes to say that the ram is the more important part , but it's all important. I'd personally buy either one just depends on the deal and being informed ya know ?

I hope it isn't too bad for ya either. Well it would be a good opportunity for you to do a swap you want to do.. just bad timing . That's awesome on the local z car club contact with the offer , know-how , and a lift ! ... seems viable for sure.

I don't think I know more than you Arche honestly .. I do obsess about details and think them through everyday though .. that might help (part of my personality) It's too bad your 4hr's away man

Worst comes to worst ... it won't be "that" bad getting the head-gasket done and head shaved. Just a severe inconvience to your commute and arrons. Head up.. you'll get it man !

oh yeah !!! once you're able and willing ... get one of these if you ever do the timing chains/head gaskets. They're great !

BLUE wrote:

ArchetypeDatsun wrote:
Thanks Blue I'll look into that and most probably buy, I know for a fact it isn't leaking but good to check any way it does smell like gas in my car though.

Brakes need to get done anyway there making a squealing sound and the rotor is not looking too good I hope I can still get it resurfaced, the back are drums future plans are to convert to disc.

I actually need a engine crane been meaning to buy one but money is tight right now!

I hope it isn't too bad man if so then I'll have to save up and just do an engine swap or get the engine rebuilt I got a guy I know from the local Z car club that told me to bring the car anytime it needs work he has a lift so I'll probably do that.

I wish I knew as much as you would definitely get more done on the car.

Definetly ! That's good to hear that it isn't leaking (heat-core/hoses). I had forgotten it smelled a bit like gas now and then.

You should be ok on your brakes. Moisture accumulates around this time of the year on everything ya know ? flash rust over-night or splashing through puddles will dry up the brakes/make noise. Or if you live in Utah ... they sound like that a good portion of the time from what I understand.
You can use high temp wheel bearing grease/disc brake grease ... for your brakes , but there are better products to use. It's $4 for a little container , and you get to pack your wheel bearings at the same time ! Honestly... a lot of tech's are gonna hate me when I say this .. lol .. If your rotor isn't too warped I would just slap some pads on and go (and if not too thin of course). Reason being is if the cheap rotors get turned again.. they sometimes warp shortly after .. could be the driver IDK .. lol. It's just a money saver , but not ideal yet you can get by for a long while if just driving around town . I use copper anti-seize for lubricant on my brakes , and the "Formulated" brake grease where it counts.

Converting to disc in the future. Should make your wagon yet look that much different man

Yeah don't buy one if money's tight ! If you find a good deal on an old American made cylinder one .. I'd look hard (if funds apply at that point). New China ones are fair enough to do the job alright .. the metal is soft .. the rams need to be rebuilt/replaced more often. I guess it goes to say that the ram is the more important part , but it's all important. I'd personally buy either one just depends on the deal and being informed ya know ?

I hope it isn't too bad for ya either. Well it would be a good opportunity for you to do a swap you want to do.. just bad timing . That's awesome on the local z car club contact with the offer , know-how , and a lift ! ... seems viable for sure.

I don't think I know more than you Arche honestly .. I do obsess about details and think them through everyday though .. that might help (part of my personality) It's too bad your 4hr's away man

Worst comes to worst ... it won't be "that" bad getting the head-gasket done and head shaved. Just a severe inconvience to your commute and arrons. Head up.. you'll get it man !

oh yeah !!! once you're able and willing ... get one of these if you ever do the timing chains/head gaskets. They're great !

I never got hands on experience doing brakes but always willing to learn.

I've done head change on L6's before so I'm familiar with it. Definitely is a bad timing to do a swap I wanna try to keep the engine I have maybe find a 810 coupe and do what I want to that idk IF I find one.

I drove my car last night to see a good friend of mine that came from Idaho and car drove fine no excessive smoke it was a smooth drive so what ever it is it hasn't catched up to the car yet and I hope it don't but cars are unpredictable. It is a damn shame were not close by or I be over too much lol!

I've seen that neat tool before I been meaning to buy one it will come in handy!

Have a happy datsgiving Blue!

Brakes are a breeze really , so no sweat don't worry about it Do one side at a time , and this is if in-case you can't remember how it's suppose to go back together = you look at the side that is complete (if any car has indentations for a tool to fit in the caliper then it must be twisted back to compress it in ), but your datsun will most very likely just require either a c-clamp or disc brake caliper compression tool. Go slow on compression. It's very basic. Inspect the disc brake pad thickness. Always clean the assembly off with brake-clean before working on it (health hazard and it's the proper way). Keep track of all appropriate shims , springs , clips , retaining pins (not hard). Make sure the slider pins are free and greased (if applicable). Clean everything off ... don't get grease or fluids in the pads/shoes at all or the rotor/drum. Apply lubricant on all contact points on the back of the disc brake shims or shoes. Lubricate the back pads/travel paths on the pins/etc. Make sure the hardware is good , and lubricate anything else that needs it. A little lubricant goes a long ways sometimes in certain areas.

You know your way around an L6 head change .

That's great man. A smooth drive is always nice to hear. I hope it doesn't , and you're 100% dead on that cars are UN-predictable. That does suck , and I bet you'd be over quite a bit to visit lol.

Yeah ! whenever you can or want to that is if you stay with L-series that tool works fantastic.

Hope you had a happy thanksgiving as well Arche !

BLUE

BLUE wrote:Brakes are a breeze really , so no sweat don't worry about it Do one side at a time , and this is if in-case you can't remember how it's suppose to go back together = you look at the side that is complete (if any car has indentations for a tool to fit in the caliper then it must be twisted back to compress it in ), but your datsun will most very likely just require either a c-clamp or disc brake caliper compression tool. Go slow on compression. It's very basic. Inspect the disc brake pad thickness. Always clean the assembly off with brake-clean before working on it (health hazard and it's the proper way). Keep track of all appropriate shims , springs , clips , retaining pins (not hard). Make sure the slider pins are free and greased (if applicable). Clean everything off ... don't get grease or fluids in the pads/shoes at all or the rotor/drum. Apply lubricant on all contact points on the back of the disc brake shims or shoes. Lubricate the back pads/travel paths on the pins/etc. Make sure the hardware is good , and lubricate anything else that needs it. A little lubricant goes a long ways sometimes in certain areas.

You know your way around an L6 head change .

That's great man. A smooth drive is always nice to hear. I hope it doesn't , and you're 100% dead on that cars are UN-predictable. That does suck , and I bet you'd be over quite a bit to visit lol.

Yeah ! whenever you can or want to that is if you stay with L-series that tool works fantastic.

Hope you had a happy thanksgiving as well Arche !

BLUE

Thanks for all the good tips I'll give it a whorl and see what happens!

Bare of bad news my car overheated today getting home. I look in the radiator after letting all the pressure out and almost a whole antifreeze bottle empty? I was like wtf I filled it completely full and I been very vigilant about anything leaking I never had any puddles at home or work so something is going on, I pretty much am expecting the worst

its the head gasket mang.. pull the plugs and post pics.

Once I get a chance most probably Monday it's my day off.

ArchetypeDatsun wrote:
Thanks for all the good tips I'll give it a whorl and see what happens!

Bare of bad news my car overheated today getting home. I look in the radiator after letting all the pressure out and almost a whole antifreeze bottle empty? I was like wtf I filled it completely full and I been very vigilant about anything leaking I never had any puddles at home or work so something is going on, I pretty much am expecting the worst

draker wrote:its the head gasket mang.. pull the plugs and post pics.

Welcome
Well that's not good to hear....

BLUE wrote:

ArchetypeDatsun wrote:
Thanks for all the good tips I'll give it a whorl and see what happens!

Bare of bad news my car overheated today getting home. I look in the radiator after letting all the pressure out and almost a whole antifreeze bottle empty? I was like wtf I filled it completely full and I been very vigilant about anything leaking I never had any puddles at home or work so something is going on, I pretty much am expecting the worst

draker wrote:its the head gasket mang.. pull the plugs and post pics.

Welcome
Well that's not good to hear....

Yeah I'll figure it out I'll either get the engine rebuilt or do a swap.

What engine? L20?

It's got a L24E in it now I was thinking something along the lines like an RB I heard there cheaper up in Washington?

RB is a cool engine Arche. I'd look up the cost for the maintenance parts for your sake (long-run) . 2JZ is almost cheaper by default that way since the engines exist here already as we all know

Maybe someone can lend you a compression tester or rent one from an auto parts house ? to see if your engine is worth saving ( that is if you want to ) or before you fix/pull/store/sell it

I always use anti-seize on spark plug threads .. compression tester threads ... well worth it

BLUE wrote:RB is a cool engine Arche. I'd look up the cost for the maintenance parts for your sake (long-run) . 2JZ is almost cheaper by default that way since the engines exist here already as we all know

Maybe someone can lend you a compression tester or rent one from an auto parts house ? to see if your engine is worth saving ( that is if you want to ) or before you fix/pull/store/sell it

I always use anti-seize on spark plug threads .. compression tester threads ... well worth it

I love to 2JZ's but I won't want to bastardize my datsun with a Toyota engine have to keep it datsun/nissan

I'll see if my cousin in law can help me.

A good HybridZ member gave me a full write up on how to do a manual rack & pinion swap on the 810 I'll have to find a junk 280zx or if someone is willing to sell just the part or what not also would need one part from a 240z. I'm pretty excited once I can get around to so it I'll share it!

Found a 78 datsun 810 sedan locally check it out today and I might just end up getting it could use an extra car doesn't run but it's doesn't need a whole lot.

Cool man ! " the810keeper " .... lol

Do you need the 280zx front cross-member for the 280zx rack and pinion conversion ?
( stupid question I know , but I really don't know what is needed haha .. even though it should )

Lol I know huh!

Well I do need a 280zx crossmember and manual rack & pinion.

haha exactly !

#$%^ it ... I has power 280zx rack + pinion w/pump and lines .... no cross-member .... lol