New World Datsuns...

Please hold.

Dash and surround-not so hot.
Gauges and bezel-spot on.

Need anything else.
Calling a scrapper tomorrow or Saturday.

turn signal lenses and housings for the drivers side

and honestly anything else you wanna pull

im always up for spare parts

Eagle_Adam wrote:turn signal lenses and housings for the drivers side

Which ones? Front? Rear?
PDXMatt took the front ones.

i need both

Eagle_Adam wrote:i need both

I have a perfect set of tail lights. Sides are all fuckered. Fronts are MIA.
I'll see what is in the parts boxes. I have some 620 stuff at in-laws house also.


Update-the gauge bezel is cracked. Went to go remove it a minute ago Big crack!
It was at the perfect angle that I didnt see it last night when I went and peaked.

figures, they always crack.....

lemme know what you have, for now im gunna hit the JY later today so my dads truck is ready for blue lake

Matt says he'll be at blue lake with a regulator.

yup, i talked to him

the truck made it to blue lake!



only pic i took of mine, im sure there's more

reppn the NWD love!

any now we rewind to before the show....

when i had almost no brakes and a failed NLSV....

here is the failed valve making sounds it shouldn't, ive checked 3 other trucks. All their valves are silent.....

VID:
http://s1356.photobucket.com/user/Eagle ... 2.mp4.html

so prior to blue lake i went to town with a few friends and tore out the failing valve, bypassed it, and put in a working 78 IR 620 alt so i could safely make it to the show and back

one thing at a time!

ya right

first things first

this block had 3 lines going to it



1 - from the MC to the block
2 - from the block to the valve i deleted



you connect two of the lines and delete the other

like this


then you move to the valve of doom that i hate sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo MUCH!!!!!!!!!

its a simple delete here too, the block that just got deleted left you with 2 lines going to the NLSV. The one connected in the pic above you keep the other one is deleted.

then a piece of hard line and a few fittings like so


and BAM! DONE

after the valve was gone, we bled the system and came to the conclusion my brakes were %25 better....

But the MC was bad :/

i had already arranged to pick up a 15/16ths MC at blue lake, so when i got home and the after party went home me, banner, and laecaon got started on the MC swap and fluid flush

but first! pics of the blue lake after party!

the new 15/16th's MC!!!!


the swap was strait forward


the old MC


BTW an old rubber floor mat can save your paint when doing something like this




the new MC installed




BAM! back to stopping!!!!!!



I do need to install a proportioning valve tho, then i can do the rear disc swap!!!!

You can install inline residual pressure valves that can be removed when doing the rear swap.
No need to wire in a bulky PV then wire back.

Look at the bottom of this link. The red ones. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/ ... alves.aspx

The problem is the rears are locking first.

Thats what those are for. The 15/16" has equal prop valves.
All 4 hitting at same time.

The 10lb. valve will wait till the system pressurizes then activate the back.
2lbs for front, and now 10lbs for rear, vs 2lbs as of current.

These things are money.