New World Datsuns...

One step at a time?

Found a piece to my coolant system I forgot I had. This piece runs under the intake manifold and returns coolant to the waterpump.

On the left is the Heater return (lines up just about perfect with the cars heater), next is the back of the intake manifold (I think its turbo return) and its getting deleted. Then the next small line on top is Throttle body return (deleted), the bigger one at the same spot is connected to the thermostat housing (pre thermostat), and it has a small line off of it for feeding the throttle body(small line getting deleted). Big hose one right is radiator return.






I also picked up a set of ZX steering knuckles (info in insomniacs...)






And I also ordered some hole saws to finish up my axle conversion.

Also, With all of the work I am doing on this car, I have decided its not going back on the road until Everything is different. This means the rear suspension is changing.

I want this car to be a wholly new experience to drive; I want to re-learn this car.

Wanted to do a bit more this weekend, but I lost Friday and Saturday to other things.

Started on the brackets to hold in the axles. Just hole sawed some plates for now.







And because I rather hate hole sawing things, I switched to my LCAs. For some continuity, I am making adjustable LCAs because the ZX steering knuckles move the strut inboard on the car 10mm each side.

So I started with ordering some joints. I dont like heim joints so none of those.











Then to do things right and repeatable, I made myself a jig. Bolted in place of the T/C rod, and properly locates the LCA pivot.

Looks good, you will be glad you rid your car of those non-adjustables.

Maybe it's time to go talk to Nelson about how to properly build lower a-arms that do not require a T-C rod.

Decided that the stock turbo manifold is what I want to run. So I mocked that up. Now the turbo sits low and back. Should help a ton with MAF to turbo clearance. This also moves the turbo away from the brake master cylinder. Also this allows me to run the stock down pipe, or any aftermarket down pipe for larger exhaust.

Christmas present for the Datsun.

Tomei fuel pressure regulator. The gauge and fuel rail adapter will be here this week.

That's what we like to see - Datsun Good Tidings!

Got my other parts. The gauge is super nice. Filled with some sort of fluid that is higher viscosity than water. Its a nice heavy unit with real glass, seems very quality.

Did no work on the Datsun today... bleh.

But I learned I can add Launch control with my Nistune board. Can hold timing, and fuel cut anywhere, rpm limiter, speed release.

And I will. Should be fun...

Ok, did little this weekend...

Here is the fuel pressure regulator where it will be living. Just need to find some small bolts to hold it in, and make a support bracket. I used some yellow tape for sealing that said it was rated for gasoline and other fuels.



Also I have been holding off on lengthening my LCAs because I didnt like how I was planning it.

So I found some adjusters from QA1, female RH thread, male LH thread. Put a LH sleeve in the LCA and use the poly bushing ends I got with a RH thread.

I havent posted in awhile...

So here are some pictures.

First up, I bought some S13 knuckles. After measuring some things on Draynors convertible, I determined to try something. So this is how I will run S13 front brakes... Also, these knuckles bring the tie rod location closer to the ball joint than even 280zx.





Also, ordered a set of S13 lower control arms. You can buy these new with bushing and ball joint for cheap, I paid 70 for the two.

Here you can see the length difference of 510 and S13. That is ok though, because I am not using all of the S13 arm. In fact more like a quarter of it.



These next two pictures were me Figuring out where to place the holes for the T/C rod. I did some photoshop magic later. But basically I laid each Control arm and balljoint equal distant from my camera so that I could overlay them on my computer lining up the Balljoint pivot.





And finally, I picked up some Blown S13 shocks. I only wanted the front, but I was helping the guy by clearing his garage of stuff I guess. They are just for mockup. But my tape measure measurements seem to indicate a shorter overall height than 280zx struts, which means the ride height I want on my car means riding the s13 shocks right where they were intended, and not below intention like on 280zx.

Yay everything is looking good!

Ok, got my control arms made. I just want to add a plate to the bottom. And I need to add the sway bar holes.



Next up, after my initial mock up, I needed to make a few simple changes. First, I had to take my camber plate to full negative camber. Next for some extra adjustment, I slotted the knuckle mount on the strut. Die grinder to the rescue!



And here it is, on the car and and looking promising. (more info after the pictures).








So what happens when you put S13 suspension on a 510? Well a few things.

Keeping the track width of the 510, the strut towers are not far enough apart, resulting in camber plates being necessary.

S13 struts are SHORT. And I do mean very short. At full droop with the knuckle on, I measured a difference of about 3 inches oh spindle height relative to car. I am actually worried about the setup being too low at full height.

WMS (Wheel Mount Surface) to WMS, well I think is going to result in being about the same as 280ZX. Right now with how it sits, The WMS is actually sitting about 1/2" inboard. Right now I am thinking that I will need to make my LCA longer (yay adjustable), which say If I make it 1/2" longer I am back to where I started for WMS distance, But have more flexibility with my camber adjustment.

Good update. I was just thinking about rattling this thread due to lack of action. Saved me the trouble.

I really dig those LCA's

Stayed late after work today to play on the lathe and mill.

Drilling a hole so I can shove an endmill through it.


here is the finished product, it will be cut in half and be used for my Crossmember jig


and I made some spacers (out of stainless) to take out the slop the S13 struts had at the camber plate.



Also, I got my brake rotors in. And Friday it looks like I will have everything needed to put my calipers on as well.

Nice work man!

Test fitting things. I do believe I will be able to move the LCA pivots up about 1.5 inches. Not sure if I will do the full amount, but that is a lot of play. Research to be done.

Troy raised my old 510's LCAs one inch. Raising them 0.5" or 1" is common, and if you do a full inch you can also raise the T/C rod pivot to the frame rail, like in the pic below. But then you'll need a different sway bar, mounted under the LCA, and DP racing sells steering arms that are 1" lower at the tie rod, but if your rack is raised enough it should be fine with your 280zx? arms.

There are no zx arms. They are s13 knuckles. I'm also against Heim joints. I'm not going for lows. Just updating the parts to newer cars. I also have a larger diameter sway bar I am planning on the front. I will figure out this whole mess. But that picture does explain quite a bit how a lot of these cars are going so low

Well damnit. I thought I had my front brakes done... Nope.

S13 non abs Rotors, Pads, and Calipers. ABS Caliper brackets.

So with that news, Im am just gonna do the Q45 brake upgrade, Dual piston calipers and a 11 inch rotor. Bolts on, uses same everything. PicknPull just got a Q45 of the year I need too!