New World Datsuns...

this looks great, love to see if a libre would clear thisbefor the rotor/caliper swap

Draynor has a S13 convertible, which is 100% stock, and uses the ABS brakes (without the ABS system). We hangout a lot. We can always test on there. I think we were gonna test his 13" Advans.

Came up with an idea today that will let me progress on the front end.

In other news, the garage has to be 100% clean this month. As in, everything needs a home or thrown out.

Been doing lots of research about brakes, not wanting to really mess things up.

Here is what I have discovered.

The SR20DET powered S13s had really large front brakes (60mm bore calipers and 11 inch rotors) (same as 2nd gen Maxima/first gen 300zx non turbo), while our american cars only got 54mm bore calipers and rotors smaller than 10inch. Both had the same rear brakes.

So why did I search about this. Because I wanted to know how much I was messing up the brake bias by switching to a twin piston caliper setup. The Q45 calipers use twin 43mm pistons. This does result in more piston area than even the 60mm bore single piston calipers, but not by that much. So with that done, and the fact that just about every S13 guy with Q45 calipers says it works great, I was happy enough with getting them.

And I dont know why I procrastinate on some things. Like coolant lines. The CA has 11 different coolant lines excluding the two radiator hoses. I am simplifying it down to 6. Basically removing coolant from the turbo (previous owner) which is 3 by itself, and then there are 2 more for the throttle body that I just dont want to run. So after looking over all the confusing pictures people have posted, I have simplified it down to what is essentially like the L series is cooled. Thermostat bypass, and heater hoses.

Now I need to go buy some 5/8" heater hose.

Then I will just have to deal with sorting the radiator hoses, which I have an idea on.

the turbo is still oil cooled tho right? the coolent lines where for fast warm up or...?

Yes its still oil cooled. Im not sure. Some suggest that it gives longer life (I would believe this). But the reality of it is, plenty of Journal bearing turbos have no coolant cooling. Now if I had a ball bearing turbo, you bet I would be running coolant to the turbo.

My thinking is that if it has coolant fittings, it is supposed to be cooled with coolant, otherwise why would they be there.
I am assuming that the engine you have was designed with a water cooled turbo, so it likely works properly that way, and it likely had some thought into who would buy this car/engine, and how they would use it, now if you delete that part of it, it likely will run hotter without the water to cool it, can or will it possibly get hot enough to melt the turbo exhaust vanes when your pushing it hard?
I know the reason I don't drive the turbo diesel I have is because it gets to hot, and it gets hot fast, I can easily get it to 1400 degrees before I even get to hiway speed by just flooring it, heaven forbid me coming to a small hill at hiway speed, as I have to let off to get to the top, otherwise it goes over 1400 degrees before I get to the top.
I believe that my issue is that it is getting to much fuel, the guy that set it up had the injection pump modified to make it run richer, he also modified the turbo to make it build boost faster at lower rpms(bigger finned intake vane), he set it up to operate at under 2000rpms, but 2000rpms in 5th is only about 55mph, I cannot drive 55mph, so I don't drive it.
You need an exhaust gas temperature(EGT) gauge installed before you drive it.

Gas motors just dont do that. No one I know runs a EGT gauge/prob on a gas motor. That is a diesel thing, and its primarily there so you can shut it down before you have runaway, something that cant happen on a gas motor.

Again, this is a journal bearing turbo. Most aftermarket turbos dont have coolant ports on journal bearing turbos, its only OEM that they do.


Quite simply, its not getting hooked up. Im done, I have already welded shut the holes on my hard coolant lines. And I am not planning on running this turbo for long.

I did stuff!

Welded up some coolant holes on the hard line:





These are some of coolant lines I used from the store:







Here are the hoses cut and clamped together to make everything I need. These are the 2 heater core hoses, and 1 thermostat bypass.



And installed:

Got the coilovers swapped over to the S13 struts. Um wow. These shocks are short. With a 250lb 7" spring and the coilover raised all the way up, I am at my old ride height. It is possible for a 195/50/15 tire to hit the upper "frame" rail without bottoming out the shock.

All of these photos are with the the Control arm extended 1/2" from 510 LCA pivot to Balljoint. 195/50/15 tire, on a 15x7 et17 wheel.



I am actively cleaning my garage... that is the garbage corner right now...


Im thinking its just a tad low from what I want right here.


Yep, need to raise the LCA pivot.

Damn, dude. That ride height looks great. But the important question is, will it be driveable that way? Perfect roads in a straight line would be no problem but occasionally you may find yourself wanting to turn the wheels or go in or out of a driveway.
It just looks sooo good.

Laecaon wrote:Im thinking its just a tad low from what I want right here.

+1

DRIVEN wrote:It just looks sooo good.

+1

Especially with those wheels & tires!

Well with it sitting like in the pictures, no sweat in can turn lock to lock...

Does look damn good that low

Ordering parts. Because, well I still have lots to buy and do.

Right now, wrapping up the front suspension. Next going to Fuel system.

Doing some math to figure out the front end. Mocked up the points in Solidworks. (I would post a picture but its just a bunch of lines).

So the S13 knuckles actually made it impossible to calculate the roll center of the car. The angle of the LCA is way too severe, stock.

Raising the LCA pivots up an extreme amount of 2 inches only results in bringing the roll center level with the ground.

So then the other option is to bring the ball joint pivot down. The two ways to do this is to either switch to a spherical ball joint (like heim joints), or machine a whole spacer to space the ball joint down.

I really really do not want to run heim joints on this car. I dont think they belong on street driven cars, and the 4x4 crowd doesnt like them.

The other problem that goes along with this whole setup is the tie rod angle. Because I am placing the rack where I want (kinda), I have a bit more play. But lets remember, the knuckle ball joint to tie rod end joint is a fixed relationship. And ideally the tie rod and LCA are parallel (when facing from the front). And if you are shoving the LCA pivot up, you kinda want the outer tie rod pivot to be lower than the ball joint so you can space the rack down better. Machining a spacer would allow me to break up the relationship of the ball joint and tie rod.


So it looks like more custom!


Thats ok, Im waiting on Derek til I finish some stuff in the engine bay.

Jacob, is there any chance of using the "tall" ball joints that are based on GM dimensions that are for this purpose? I see them listed in the Speedway Motors Race catalogs.

Something to look into maybe, I'm sure it would create a redesign of your lower control arms though and I do not know if the ball joint taper could be made to work in the S13 spindles.

Ive looked into taller balljoints. And they do exist. But I dont think they will work, because they are not tall enough, and if you run too long of a ball joint it shoves the LCA into the brake rotor. The issue really is just how short the S13 knuckle is.

Right now, my math is showing a 1.5" raise of the LCA pivot, and 1.5" drop of the Balljoint gets me a roll center just a bit above ground.

Is sectioning some height out of the crossmember an option. Effectively moving the LCA pivot point up the amount that you sectioned it.

It certainly would not be an easy option though.

Or just building a completely new "custom" crossmember.